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big 16g install

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KiD_DSM115

15+ Year Contributor
286
1
Jun 10, 2004
Chi-tOwn ChInAtOWn, Illinois
Hey I have just gotten myself a big 16g for my gs-t and was wondering if anyone had experience or would know if its an easy project to install? I didn't want to pay any performance shop 3 to 4 bills just to install when i heard it is just bolted on. and also i have an AFC, 510 cc's, i'm going to get a 255 FP soon as well with a boost control, but is there anythin thing else i'm missing and again, could this stuff be done in the garage? i dont care if it takes me days as long as i save the extra money. thanks. :dsm:
 
I just installed one, my two main problems were:

:bending the water lines just right, took me a lot of tries
porting the motherfuc*er
:making the j-pipe reach the SMIC, or vice versa
:cross-threaded one of the manifold-turbo bolts - DONT DO THIS ONE
 
I just did one but I have a 1G so I didn't have to mess with the lines or a J-pipe. It was really easy if I didn't have to wait for morning to get new bolts for the turbo to o2 it would have taken only a few hours. Since I had to drain the coolant I took the radiator out gives you a lot of room and a nice time to flush it and fill with good coolant.
 
wow okay but i am just starting out and know only the basics parts on dsm vehicles but had some frenz who know more info on this project, well do you reccomend me to a performance shop at that or just to be more cautious about moving things around, i mean if everything anything i do i cant really damage anything, suggestions? thanks
 
It's amoung the easiest of jobs. If you can change a tire you can probably do this. If not sure about what the job entails just check out www.vfaq.com I'm sure they have something on a turbo swap.

It basically includes:
draining the fluids
remove intake from turbo inlet and outlet
unbolt 4 oil and coolant lines
unbolt exhaust header from engine and turbo
unbolt o2 houseing from turbo

Then reverse replaceing gaskets and fluids with fresh ones.

Tips:
Use lots of PB Blaster on the exhaust bolts then night before and morning of
Remove that radiotor for some extra room
Go easy on the banjo bolts they are hollow inside and have a hole cut through the side so they are weak. None of them should be seized on but don't over torque them back on. Or you'll be makeing a trip to the hardware store and drilling out a new bolt to replace the snapped one.
If you are ever going to upgrade your exhaust or work on your car again anti-seize works magic on exhaust bolts. A few of the bolts did vibrate out a week later but I suspect I didn't torque them down enough.


I had to replace the o2 - turbo bolts they all warped or lost threads from all the heat.
 
no need to remove the exhaust manifold..

If you decide to do it, AIM me with any questions: blu95gsx
 
hey thanks for all the info from the both of you and well hearing you comparing the job to that of a tire change has really released some stress even though it will be a little bit more work, thanks :thumb:
 
haha ya your right it is a little more ;) Don't be immediatly concerned when it smokes when you startup. Your bound to have some coolant oil pb blaster on the turbo somewhere and will cause it smoke for a bit. I got so afraid my turbo was going to turn into a molten ball of useless metal but after about 5-10 minutes it went away.
 
haha thanks because being new to the DSM world and all the GO ;) D problems a guy goes trhough with tehir car wheter from modding it or whatevr, i am easily paranoid..........and when that shit strikes.........im a humpdy dumpdy running around/..... :confused: .. alrite i'll keep you updated on how it goes but it won't start until i get my act 2100(2 months) kuz money sucks now to try and get 2600 or 2900.....thanks again.... :thumb:
 
Get in there and get your hands dirty! It is the best way to get familiar with your dsm. On a scale of 1-10 on bolting on a big 16g, I would give it a 4 maybe 5 at most. Anyone half way familiar with tools should be able to just look at the car and swap out the turbo. I would say my only concern would be to try and get a hold of a service manual so you dont over torq the bolts when your putting them back on. It sucks to break/strip bolts. You can do it! :thumb:
 
hey yeah i am now understandin that this project with this turbo to INSTALL isnt really a need to know all about DSM's and still with that phrase of changin a tire now only lets me know that its a simple procedure of removing shit like bolts and whatnot...and puttin in back on...haha well i'll let you all now how it goes...thanks agin and agin and again.........AGAIN :thumb:
 
JUST to get away from the turbo install subject, i was also wonderin.... i have AFC, 510cc injectors, 1g stock BOV, got a 255 hp fuel pump, act 2100 kit, and boost controller coming....anything else i mite need to change or think about.......thanks :confused:
 
changing a clutch is a much bigger project than swapping your turbo. I myself did my turbo swap, but would never touch my clutch.. but thats just me

get an AFPR with that 255 pump or you'll be burning gas

invest or borrow a datalogger to tune the SAFC

crush the 1g BOV

tee the boost source from the BOV - intake mani line and keep the hose as short as possible

get a boost gauge ?
 
blcknspo0ln said:
changing a clutch is a much bigger project than swapping your turbo. I myself did my turbo swap, but would never touch my clutch.. but thats just me

get an AFPR with that 255 pump or you'll be burning gas

invest or borrow a datalogger to tune the SAFC

crush the 1g BOV

tee the boost source from the BOV - intake mani line and keep the hose as short as possible

get a boost gauge ?

oh yeah i have a boost gauge too.....yeah ok thanks i read somewhere about crushin the 1g bov for something...my fren got a datalogger and sorry still a noob......AFPR?? :confused: ....and thanks
 
BTW ...yeah LOL the clutch imma get that installed prolly by a performance store for about 3 bills prolly....
 
my stock 1g bov holds great until about 21-23psi. i wouldn't crush unless you are planning on running more.
as far as the turbo install: do you have an install kit? if not, i would reccomend the RRE hacker kit. it will make your life so much easier. also, print the "2g 16g install" and "2g 16g install w/ RRE hacker/tweeket kit" instructions from www.vfaq.com. read both of them over and over until you REALLY understand what you are doing and all the parts associated. spray ALL the bolts with liquid wrench or pb blaster the night before you plan on doing it and give them all a good whack with a hammer to help it soak in. the most important are the turbo-mani bolts/stud, mani-head nuts, and turbo-o2 housing bolts. if you have the time, i would also port everything as stated at www.vfaq.com as it will increase flow and help prevent boost creep.
in the vfaq, tom mentions getting a new mani-turbo bolt and some other misc. parts from the dealer. i would also reccommend getting them as my turbo-mani stud would NOT come out of the t25 and it makes it much easier if you ever want to pull the turbo again.
my install took a long weekend with most of the time spent porting EVERYTHING. it can be done in a day by yourself for the first time with no porting and a few hours after you have done it once.
enjoy your new boost and try to wipe that :D off your face before you see your friends :thumb:
 
jmakado said:
do you have an install kit? if not, i would reccomend the RRE hacker kit. it will make your life so much easier. also, print the "2g 16g install" and "2g 16g install w/ RRE hacker/tweeket kit" instructions from www.vfaq.com...
Just a little something to add...

RRE Hacker/Tweeker kit: $195
SBR Full 2g Install kit: $200

Jake
 
yeah i was told that with a 1g bov it could only hold about 22 psi at the most..so i don't think im gonna run it that high, 1 of my other guys has a small 16g in his 1g and he tells me that he runs it at 10psi usually and only takes it to 19 when needed. i was gonna take out my exhaust mani to get ported for about $75 and save myself $300 for the shop to take out and put back in the mani, but then i was thinkin $75 on a 2g mani or $300 on a SBR mani?.......do i really need it to spend another $225 or keep mine? thanks :D :D :D haha
 
unless yours manifold is cracked keep the one you have 2g ones are fine. I have a POS 1g unit and it cracks all over. You can tell if it has a hairline crack by the white dust that collects in a straight line usually parallel to the runner. If you want to get a new one the EVO manifolds have a larger collector where the turbo bolts on.
 
the 1g exhaust mani sucks. if you're 2g mani is in good shape , just go out and either get it ported or port it yourself. only took me about an hour to port match the 7cm gasket and get rid of half the divider :thumb:
 
KiD_DSM115 said:
1 of my other guys has a small 16g in his 1g and he tells me that he runs it at 10psi usually and only takes it to 19 when needed.

I am that guy, if anyone asks :cool:
 
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