Which headgasket, ive alrdy searched

[Black90GS-T]

Didnt get much from doing multiple searches on the subject but this i did get.

OEM 52.00 quoted from dealer can hold up to 22 psi (correct me if im wrong)
OEM 4 layer metal No idea how much but im guessing 80-90 dollars, not sure what application you would use this on

HKS 200 some dollar headgasket, be all end all headgaskets for dsm

Cometic headgasket near the same quality as hks but half the price, 95 dollars on slowboy

Ive alrdy ordered arp studs since they are a must. But still questioning which actual headgasket.

My setup will prolly be under 300 horse. Streetable daily driver thats fun and can hang with your usual.

I am on a slight budget which leans me towards buying the oem for 52.

 

[bigjangin]

if its under 300 horse definitely definitely get the oem.

 

[VRMAN]

Why risk your head for $40? Get the Mitsu 4layer, holds a ton of boost and RRE recommends it, works for me.

 

[Scrymerr]

Ya, get the mitsu 4 layer metal. I love it.. And if you ever have to take the head off again you dont have to spend time scraping all those little dot crap thingys off the block with a razor.

 

[bigjangin]

the oem is a composite and will be more forgiving if the surface isnt prepared specifically for a metal headgasket.

 

[sjgYFZ200]

How is FelPro? should i put cams in after the head has been on the new gasket for a while to get used to it? or it doesnt matter

 

[Bastard1g]

I would get the 4 layer mhg, its only 69.00 from conicelli mitsubishi.

Conicelli-1-866-221-0913
You dont need the part number, they know these things by heart. Also get the oem intake manifold gasket while you are at it, it is metal with a plastic coating and not that cheap paper felpro stuff.

 

[TSIfreek]

I would go with the OEM with ARP head studs torqued to 75 FT LBS. Since you are not having your block decked you may run into coolant seeping problems with the metal head gaskets. The OEM with ARPs is good for 20+psi reliabley. The metal head gaskets if you think you need it seal very well on motors that have the head and block surfaced (at a machine shop) for that gasket. The OEM is more flexable and will seal blocks and head surfaces that arnt perfectly straight. Go with the OEM and ARPs and be done with it you will not have any problems. Just make sure the surfaces are very clean (rasor blades, gasket remover,brake clean,and a shop vac is all you need to get the job done. DO NOT USE ANY SCOTCH BRITE PADS The abrasive material will go inside the motor(oil passage ways) and wipe out your crank and rod bearings.