Using 4G63 Non turbo block

[ImportModder]

Ok, I've got a 95 gsx that needs a tranny and transfer case. It already has the engine, but I want to drop in a 6 bolt motor while the rest of the drivetrain is being located. I found a 93 talon that has the 4G63 F non turbo engine. I know I can use this block, but is it more worthwhile to find a 6 bolt 4G63 turbo motor? What would I have to change in the non turbo block? 1G crank, rods, 2G pistons? I'll use the head off the gsx.

Another quick question... I'm finding alot of 1G trannies and T cases. Is the 2G tranny that much better than the 1G tranny that I should keep looking for a 2G tranny and T case?

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by ImportModder
Ok, I've got a 95 gsx that needs a tranny and transfer case. It already has the engine, but I want to drop in a 6 bolt motor while the rest of the drivetrain is being located. I found a 93 talon that has the 4G63 F non turbo engine. I know I can use this block, but is it more worthwhile to find a 6 bolt 4G63 turbo motor? What would I have to change in the non turbo block? 1G crank, rods, 2G pistons? I'll use the head off the gsx.

Another quick question... I'm finding alot of 1G trannies and T cases. Is the 2G tranny that much better than the 1G tranny that I should keep looking for a 2G tranny and T case?

A non-turbo 4G63 block is pretty much useless to you unless you want some heavy drilling on your hands. I believe (not positive) that the NT '63 requires drilling of oil squirters in addition to some other modifications. 2G transmission is usually better than the 1G although that is pretty much up for debate.

 

[rcarson]

You would also have to modify the motor mount on the tranny of you were to use a 1G tranny. At least I would have had to when I swapped a 6Bolt motor in my car, if I wanted to use a 1G tranny. Also, I agree with Rubin you would be much better off getting a 4G63 turbo block they are mad e for the turbo with all the extra oil ducts, squirters. If you do use the NT block you would have to turn down the boost, and no one wants to have to do that.

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by rcarson
You would also have to modify the motor mount on the tranny of you were to use a 1G tranny. At least I would have had to when I swapped a 6Bolt motor in my car, if I wanted to use a 1G tranny. Also, I agree with Rubin you would be much better off getting a 4G63 turbo block they are mad e for the turbo with all the extra oil ducts, squirters. If you do use the NT block you would have to turn down the boost, and no one wants to have to do that.

Rubin I've never been called that before.. Heheh

 

[nine5raptor]

Originally posted by ImportModder
Another quick question... I'm finding alot of 1G trannies and T cases. Is the 2G tranny that much better than the 1G tranny that I should keep looking for a 2G tranny and T case?

I got the opposite story from TRE when I called them. they said the reason you can't find used 2g trannys is they like to blow apart (like mine did). They shift better when they work, but when they go, they go.

 

[dsmracer69]

just don't get a 90 tranny its is the most useless pos i ever bought and i spent 1200 in it to have an lsd and galant first gear put in after it locked up last time. It seems that the shifter linkage is different in the 90 from 91-94.So I would assume the change would be the same within the 95-99 as far as the brackets and shifter linkage. Just go with what is in the car now it will be easier. damm pos's gotta love them though..

 

[Rick@AP]

I would advise doing a search on this board using the word "block" and my board name (Rick@AP). I, as well as others, have posted a good deal of information concerning using a NT block for a turbo charged application.

In short, NT blocks and Turbo blocks are the same with the exception of the NT block missing piston oil squirters, using higher compression pistons, and a stock location for a knock sensor. The crank, rods, etc. are all the same. The squirters can be easily placed in a NT block by a machinist if you feel you just have to have them.

 

[ImportModder]

Thanks everyone, I'll keep looking around for the 2G tranny and T-case. I'll search for that thread about the NT motor and go from there. I was hoping to keep the NT car for a friend and just switch the blocks. We might just keep looking for a turbo 6-bolt.

 

[SmoothCriminal]

what about heads? will the 1g NA head fit on the 1g turbo awd? my local junkyard has quite a few 2L NA dohc engines/cars but no turbo heads someone told me the ports on the NA head are different..

 

[dsmracer69]

no they are the same

 

[kengsx]

The NT cams are different, are they not? That may depend on specific years though, since there's a cam difference on 1990 turbo vs 1991-94. And the other thing to watch out for is 6 or 7 bolt through holes in the head. The 6-bolt head bolts/studs will not fit through the smaller 7-bolt through holes. A machine shop can modify that as well, but it's probably worth the extra effort to match years.

Ken

 

[Rick@AP]

Correct, the springs and cams are different on the NT vs Turbo heads.

 

[MNGSX]

Any competent machinist can do the squirter install..

You can DIY if you are good enough.

Get some good cobalt bits.. starting small and working up to tap diameter. In a drill press if at all possible. Some presses allow for swinging the platform around and out of the way so you can just wheel the block up to it on the stand.

Mark the hole accurately using a center punch. Start with the small bit with very little pressure on it at a nice steady drill RPM (not fast not slow) use cutting oil as well. Use a good cobalt bit, the right RPM, cutting oil and just barely enough pressure on the bit so it does the work and does'nt smoke.... Get all that right and it is a cake walk.

It depends on how much experence you have working with metal compenents and fasteners I guess.

 

[TimG]

1. You don't need the oil squirters. In fact, I can't remember which shop; Buschur or Magnus, but a reputable shop rebuilds motors without these squirters. I have ran my n/t engine with turbo pistons for 10000km with no issues. No knock, no overheating (cept from FMIC blocking rad).

2. Only difference between turbo and n/t head is the cams. Springs are the same.

 

[houstonECLIPSE]

i have a 92 non-turbo block with 1g turbo crank, rods and pistons in it. i've been running this set-up with a big 16g at 15 psi for 10k miles. this is all in a 98 gst. i had to go with a non turbo block because after putting a hole in the previous block, i had a hard time finding a turbo block in good condition. the only difference is the oil squirters. i haven't had any problems with this set-up at all.

lupe

 

[kreepscort]

same here, did a 6 bolt swap with non turbo block and turbo crank/pistons, works great so far

 

[dsmracer69]

Originally posted by kengsx
The NT cams are different, are they not? That may depend on specific years though, since there's a cam difference on 1990 turbo vs 1991-94. And the other thing to watch out for is 6 or 7 bolt through holes in the head. The 6-bolt head bolts/studs will not fit through the smaller 7-bolt through holes. A machine shop can modify that as well, but it's probably worth the extra effort to match years.

Ken

ya i was talking about the head itself but the 90 cams are more aggressive so get 90 just make sure u get the rite caps for the cams if not it will be hard 2 spin the cam and break ur timing belt

 

[MNGSX]

With the squiters it is dependant on how the engine will be used.

I have worked on many a diesel engine with squirters much like 1g squiters.

For a mostly drag car it probably does'nt matter as much having squirters. I'm sure they do help but it is'nt as big of a deal.

They came about to help the factory cast piston disipate enough heat to staytogether under extended runs at high boost.

For any racing that is'nt over in well under 1/4 of a minute like drag racing I'd definately run them.

If you have a lead foot and high boost on the street I'd run them too. Cool piston domes are happy piston domes. Without NOS and forged pistons most drag cars will do just fine without them.

They really can suck alot of heat out of a piston. Sometimes this is'nt needed. When it is it is very effective. Unless they are 2g style and stick open.