AWD Launch with low 11 power please help??

[krummel45]

Heres my set up and i was just wondering at what rpm i should launch at so that i dont break any thing including axels Tranny which is stock but will be rebuilt through shep in a while but for now it is stock. So how can i get the times without stress on AWD system.

thanks

1G 6 bolt block
- Force Performance Green Model Turbo
- Spearco FMIC 28 x 10 x 3.5
- 2.5” Upper & lower Intercooler pipes
- Extreme turbo 3” hard pipe intake
- Eagle rods
- Wiesco pistons 8.8:1
- Web Cams Street Grind
- Crower valve spring W/Titanium retainers
- Walboro 255 fuel pump
- 720cc venom injectors
- Greddy type S BOV
- Intercooler sprayer
- DSM Link w/laptop
- HKS EVC EZ Boost controller
- HKS turbo timer type 0
- DSM-Performance 3"turbo back exhaust
- ported O2 housing Dump tube
- ACT 2600 clutch
- Ported exhaust manifold
- Head ported & polished
- 1g Throttle body, 1g intake,
- ARP head studs, rod bolts, and main bolts,
- Balance shafts removed,
- Custom Short Shifter
- Magnicor plug wires,
- Eibach Sport Line springs, Tokico 5 way adjustable struts.
- Front and rear tie bars.
- Boost, Egt, oil pressure gauges
- 18” mesh tuner wheels 235/40/18

 

[leet]

I launch @ 5k. Most people do 5-5.5k


There are plenty of threads on this. Check them out.

 

[krummel45]

so you launch at 5 thousand and are runing low 11 1/4 times and have not jet broken anything?

 

[TurboSpoolinIns]

Unless you don't learn your own car first, then you won't break a 12.0 with all the mods in the world, I can guarantee that. Tuning is learning to drive your own car is also very key. Launching anywhere from 4.5 to 5.5k is typical.

 

[1fast97gsx]

launch it at 4500 and slip it like crazy .... just be prepared to buy a lot of clutches then.

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
launch it at 4500 and slip it like crazy .... just be prepared to buy a lot of clutches then.

I put a new clutch in every year. Last year was a 2100 and I went 12.5 on it but this year is a 2600 and hopefully it will last longer. The 2100 only lasted for one season and was starting to go by the end of the year.

Also have a spare tranny sitting around all the time and if you wanna feel better about it weld the mofo and get a 3/4 shifter fork that should get you into 500hp with no problems. (hopefully ..)

 

[rdrkt]

I leave at 6500 if the track is sticky if not 5500. Like it was said clutch slipping is your friends.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
.... just be prepared to buy a lot of clutches then.

Originally posted by DSMJim
I put a new clutch in every year.

You guys are crazy. I didn’t even want to get into the cycle of 1-2 PPs a season and 1 FW surface a season. I spent about 1100 bucks on a nice twin disk clutch and it will last me AT LEAST 2 full seasons of racing if not more and when I go to refurbish the clutch its only going to cost 200 for the disks and FW surface. Wes has it in his and he is making a ton more power than I am and his clutch looked almost new at the end of the season.

PS the pedal pressure on the twin disk is about stock MUCH less than a 2100. Cant believe more people didnt buy it.

 

[92TALONAWD]

rdrkt, Which clutch did you go with? I have been thinking about going this way when my currant clutch goes on me.

Thanks, Matt

 

[BrnOutKing]

Your RPM launch depends on if your building boost at the line or not.

which version of DSMLINK do you have. If you have V2 and have the clutch cut wire hooked up.

I have my Launch RPMS set at 6000 with a little bit of slipage. and my NLTS set at 5700rpms. but I have my redline set at 8K.


It's best if you want to save tranny/axles to:

A)either make sure you spin your tires

B) slip the clutch enough so that the instant torque of a launch isn't as great.


Your best bet is to play around with it a bunch (with out having using the clutch cut)

Play with slipping the clutch and find out what rpms work for you and how much slippage gives you the best exceleration. But remember to much slippage can lead to glazing the clutch over and then you wont' be going anywhere.


Once you get that down then just set the launch rpms to what you found works and then play with it and make the minor adjustments to dial in your launch.

-Brian

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by 92TALONAWD
rdrkt, Which clutch did you go with? I have been thinking about going this way when my currant clutch goes on me.

Go to hesspower.com and shoot him an email.

 

[anomalyinva]

Originally posted by krummel45
Heres my set up and i was just wondering at what rpm i should launch at so that i dont break any thing including axels Tranny which is stock but will be rebuilt through shep in a while but for now it is stock. So how can i get the times without stress on AWD system.

thanks

1G 6 bolt block
- Force Performance Green Model Turbo
- Spearco FMIC 28 x 10 x 3.5
- 2.5” Upper & lower Intercooler pipes
- Extreme turbo 3” hard pipe intake
- Eagle rods
- Wiesco pistons 8.8:1
- Web Cams Street Grind
- Crower valve spring W/Titanium retainers
- Walboro 255 fuel pump
- 720cc venom injectors
- Greddy type S BOV
- Intercooler sprayer
- DSM Link w/laptop
- HKS EVC EZ Boost controller
- HKS turbo timer type 0
- DSM-Performance 3"turbo back exhaust
- ported O2 housing Dump tube
- ACT 2600 clutch
- Ported exhaust manifold
- Head ported & polished
- 1g Throttle body, 1g intake,
- ARP head studs, rod bolts, and main bolts,
- Balance shafts removed,
- Custom Short Shifter
- Magnicor plug wires,
- Eibach Sport Line springs, Tokico 5 way adjustable struts.
- Front and rear tie bars.
- Boost, Egt, oil pressure gauges
- 18” mesh tuner wheels 235/40/18

7, the answer is 7.

NO ONE CAN TELL YOU THAT. EVERY car is different. You have to try on your own. I have broken my friends 3 bolt rear end on a totally stock car. You always have the chance to break things when drag racing, or crusing along.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Originally posted by rdrkt
You guys are crazy. I didn’t even want to get into the cycle of 1-2 PPs a season and 1 FW surface a season. I spent about 1100 bucks on a nice twin disk clutch and it will last me AT LEAST 2 full seasons of racing if not more and when I go to refurbish the clutch its only going to cost 200 for the disks and FW surface. Wes has it in his and he is making a ton more power than I am and his clutch looked almost new at the end of the season.

PS the pedal pressure on the twin disk is about stock MUCH less than a 2100. Cant believe more people didnt buy it.

Yea but you gotta figure you paid $1100 and it will last you 2 years. I spend $400 and it lasts me a year. If you do the clutch change yourself ( and buy a new friction surface for the flywheel ) it's about $470 total per season. It can easily be done in 6-7 hours total so I'm sticking with 1 clutch a summer. I switched over to the 2900 this summer ... we'll see how I like it.

 

[mustg5]

A clutch a season?????......have your freeplay on your crank checked out.....ill bet your begining to walk. Either that or u just love to slip and burn.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by mustg5
A clutch a season?????......have your freeplay on your crank checked out.....ill bet your begining to walk. Either that or u just love to slip and burn.

It a different game entirely when you are making over 500hp.

 

[DSMJim]

Originally posted by mustg5
A clutch a season?????......have your freeplay on your crank checked out.....ill bet your begining to walk. Either that or u just love to slip and burn.

I use my two step at 5500rpm on the street all the time to launch on people.. My clutchs don't last beacuse I don't try and save them. I launch hard and don't worry about the abuse i'm giving to my clutch.

No only do I have a lot of fun launching hard on the street, I slip like a MOFO and dont break parts. I just know I have to do a clutch every spring and I never worry about it. My old clutch are usually pretty good say 50% worn but I change for a new one every year anyways...

I am also sponsored by ACT which helps a lot, it's not like I'm made of money ...

 

[mclaren55]

Wow, all these guys going through clutches, I have had mine in for 1 and a half seasons of competition. I have a low 11 car, and I launch at 6500-6700rpm, quick slip, no way in hell do I slip it alot. Because if I do, it glazes the clutch, and when I bang the gears it doesn't put the power down. That's my technique, and on DR's I hook 1.61's-1.64's most of the time in a full weight 2g.

 

[mustg5]

yea....450whp with a 2600 ACT......still should go for more than a year. Unless ur dirving the shit out of it all day and night. Oh well, a clutch a season isnt to much work. Give you something to do over the winter i guess.... It seems im either doing a motor swap or helping someone with one every winter just so i have something to do when its to fuC**ng cold and snowy to drive. If you dont mind doing swaping the clutch a season, then drive the hell out of it....more power to ya man....it costs money to have fun. And why not go all out. Its what we love to do.

 

[TurboSpoolinIns]

I ran my 2600 for a year and a half, ran/slipped hardcore 20-30 times at the shootout weekend, and like 100 times previously before that. When the season ended, the clutch didn't die normally, a spring just fell out of the disc which messed up a few things. The disc ended up in 5 separate peices. I looked at the material and there was plenty left. If only a spring didnt' fall out.:thumbdown Wondering how this new-er 2600 is going to go.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by krummel45
Heres my set up and i was just wondering at what rpm i should launch at so that i dont break any thing including axels Tranny which is stock but will be rebuilt through shep in a while but for now it is stock. So how can i get the times without stress on AWD system.

thanks

1G 6 bolt block
- Force Performance Green Model Turbo
- Spearco FMIC 28 x 10 x 3.5
- 2.5” Upper & lower Intercooler pipes
- Extreme turbo 3” hard pipe intake
- Eagle rods
- Wiesco pistons 8.8:1
- Web Cams Street Grind
- Crower valve spring W/Titanium retainers
- Walboro 255 fuel pump
- 720cc venom injectors
- Greddy type S BOV
- Intercooler sprayer
- DSM Link w/laptop
- HKS EVC EZ Boost controller
- HKS turbo timer type 0
- DSM-Performance 3"turbo back exhaust
- ported O2 housing Dump tube
- ACT 2600 clutch
- Ported exhaust manifold
- Head ported & polished
- 1g Throttle body, 1g intake,
- ARP head studs, rod bolts, and main bolts,
- Balance shafts removed,
- Custom Short Shifter
- Magnicor plug wires,
- Eibach Sport Line springs, Tokico 5 way adjustable struts.
- Front and rear tie bars.
- Boost, Egt, oil pressure gauges
- 18” mesh tuner wheels 235/40/18

Bad ass setup got any pictures?

 

[Talondsm18g]

Same thing happend to my ACT street disk.
The disk is garabage. Thats the clutches weak link. A lot of people have run a stock 95 disk with the 2600 and have lasted longer than street disk.
Better to burn the clutch than break a rear or tranny.
I only replace the disk on my act. Because if u only put 15k miles on a disk im sure the PP is going to last much longer than that.

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by mclaren55
I have a low 11 car, and I launch at 6500-6700rpm, quick slip, no way in hell do I slip it alot.

And you wonder why you break shit and cant ET.

 

[mclaren55]

Originally posted by rdrkt
And you wonder why you break shit and cant ET.

My bushings were worn that's why I broke 4 axles. After I replaced them I cut 2 tenths off my 60', and only snapped 1 axle in 6 events. Sorry, I don't launch like a bi*** like you.

 

[awdEAGLEtsi]

heres the deal, with any launch, something has to give, either its the clutch, the gears, the diffs, or the wheels. launch as hard as your weakest part will allow, or like everyone is saying, smoke the shyt out of the clutch. take your pick. until you have everythign upgraded, you are stuck with those choices.

 

[1fast97gsx]

nicely put