I decided to write an article on a subject that has been bothering my for awhile now about my car. I finally got around to fixing it, for I did not want the problem to continue on. This article will show you how to repair the lip of the quarter panel that lines the wheel well, of rust and paint chips. I had this problem and it carried on farther that I wanted to and had to tend to it before it took over. I did not want to paint it and have a visible line of differentiating paint. So, I turned to this remedy.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5484392662/" title="IMAG0371 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/5484392662_923a3aaed1.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0371" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540780106/" title="IMAG0414 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5540780106_8197c8dae2.jpg" width="500" height="299" alt="IMAG0414" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5549415560/" title="IMAG0412 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5064/5549415560_3efaa4c1ce.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0412" /></a>
This is a simple step by step process that I used. It worked for me, and it should for you as well. I do not hold respnsibility to damage you may end up inflicting.
Materials Used
-Duplicolor Professional Rubberized Undercoating (Can use other rubberized undercoating)
-Electric Drill
-Stiff Scotch-Brite Pad adaptable into drill
-Dremel Tool
-Wire Brushes for Dremel
-Flathead screw driver
-330 Grit Sandpaper
-Newspaper and Masking Tape For Taping Off
Procedure
Start by jacking your vehicle up in the back end, be sure to loosen the lug nuts to your wheel before you elevate the vehicle. This makes it easier to break the nuts loose. Then, remove the desired wheel.
1. Use the flathead screwdriver to chip away at or remove any paint chips that can be removed. Flaky paint would fall into this catergory
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540204257/" title="IMAG0416 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5540204257_fd49447fcc.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0416" /></a>
2. Once you have removed all of the stray paint chips that you can, use the dremel tool to remove rust pitting. The more time you spend on this step the better. Removing the rust pits makes the overall surface look better. Get it as good as you can. If you feel like it is good enough, move on to the next step.
NOTE: Be sure to where eye protection while performing this step. A wire to the eye is no fun, and I speak of personal experience.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540787554/" title="IMAG0417 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5540787554_1d1ef5313b.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0417" /></a>
3. In this step of the process, I used the 320 grit sandpaper mentioned above in the materials list, to do some sanding/smoothing of the surface. The amount of time you spend on this step is personal preference. I spent about 10 minutes sanding down to metal.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540209313/" title="IMAG0418 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/5540209313_914b1476e2.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0418" /></a>
4. After sanding, the drill with the Scotch-Brite pad comes into play. If you get the right pad, it will fit perfectly in the space that you are wanting to work with. As seen in the pictures, I placed the pad right in the lip and went to work. This part did a lot of the work for me. Smoothed and took off paint.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540226083/" title="IMAG0420 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5540226083_97ede68b8b.jpg" width="500" height="299" alt="IMAG0420" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540230599/" title="IMAG0421 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5540230599_482370bdba.jpg" width="500" height="299" alt="IMAG0421" /></a>
5. This step is nothing but simply taping off what you do and do not want painted. Make sure and cover up the rest of the quarter panel well, unless you want rubberized undercoat as your paint code.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540236577/" title="IMAG0423 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5540236577_be09882d48.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0423" /></a>
6. You are ready to get down to business. If you have never sprayed rubberized undercoating before, I highly suggest you find a piece of cardboard or other to try it out on first. It is not the typical spray one would imagine. It comes out thick. You do not want to lay on too much. This will cause I build up of the coating. Once you feel comfortable with it move on to the car. I recommend painting in quick spurts/blast, instead of a continuous spray. That tends to cause excess build up.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540828938/" title="IMAG0425 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5540828938_8d0f548e68.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0425" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540252331/" title="IMAG0426 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5540252331_0b566453d4.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0426" /></a>
After applying the undercoat to the desired taped off spot, allow it to dry. If you are wondering if it is dry or not, DO NOT touch where you have painted, simply touch the paper around it to see the condition. I let mine sit for a good 20 minutes.
Once dry remove the paper and masking tape. Be sure to take it nice and easy when doing so. Do not do in a careless manner. Chances are you will not damage the undercoating when removing, but you always want to be sure.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540871214/" title="IMAG0428 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5540871214_1023627abf.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0428" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540872426/" title="IMAG0429 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5540872426_66c0197d17.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0429" /></a>
I continued my coating onto the rear bumper slightly as well. I had chipping going on on the bumper and decided to put a stop to is as well. What you decide to coat is all up to you.
This concludes the DIY: Rear Quarter Panel Lip Rust/Paint Chip Repair article. Hope it works for you.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5484392662/" title="IMAG0371 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/5484392662_923a3aaed1.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0371" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540780106/" title="IMAG0414 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5540780106_8197c8dae2.jpg" width="500" height="299" alt="IMAG0414" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5549415560/" title="IMAG0412 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5064/5549415560_3efaa4c1ce.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0412" /></a>
This is a simple step by step process that I used. It worked for me, and it should for you as well. I do not hold respnsibility to damage you may end up inflicting.
Materials Used
-Duplicolor Professional Rubberized Undercoating (Can use other rubberized undercoating)
-Electric Drill
-Stiff Scotch-Brite Pad adaptable into drill
-Dremel Tool
-Wire Brushes for Dremel
-Flathead screw driver
-330 Grit Sandpaper
-Newspaper and Masking Tape For Taping Off
Procedure
Start by jacking your vehicle up in the back end, be sure to loosen the lug nuts to your wheel before you elevate the vehicle. This makes it easier to break the nuts loose. Then, remove the desired wheel.
1. Use the flathead screwdriver to chip away at or remove any paint chips that can be removed. Flaky paint would fall into this catergory
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540204257/" title="IMAG0416 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5540204257_fd49447fcc.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0416" /></a>
2. Once you have removed all of the stray paint chips that you can, use the dremel tool to remove rust pitting. The more time you spend on this step the better. Removing the rust pits makes the overall surface look better. Get it as good as you can. If you feel like it is good enough, move on to the next step.
NOTE: Be sure to where eye protection while performing this step. A wire to the eye is no fun, and I speak of personal experience.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540787554/" title="IMAG0417 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5540787554_1d1ef5313b.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0417" /></a>
3. In this step of the process, I used the 320 grit sandpaper mentioned above in the materials list, to do some sanding/smoothing of the surface. The amount of time you spend on this step is personal preference. I spent about 10 minutes sanding down to metal.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540209313/" title="IMAG0418 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/5540209313_914b1476e2.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0418" /></a>
4. After sanding, the drill with the Scotch-Brite pad comes into play. If you get the right pad, it will fit perfectly in the space that you are wanting to work with. As seen in the pictures, I placed the pad right in the lip and went to work. This part did a lot of the work for me. Smoothed and took off paint.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540226083/" title="IMAG0420 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5540226083_97ede68b8b.jpg" width="500" height="299" alt="IMAG0420" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540230599/" title="IMAG0421 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5540230599_482370bdba.jpg" width="500" height="299" alt="IMAG0421" /></a>
5. This step is nothing but simply taping off what you do and do not want painted. Make sure and cover up the rest of the quarter panel well, unless you want rubberized undercoat as your paint code.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540236577/" title="IMAG0423 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5540236577_be09882d48.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0423" /></a>
6. You are ready to get down to business. If you have never sprayed rubberized undercoating before, I highly suggest you find a piece of cardboard or other to try it out on first. It is not the typical spray one would imagine. It comes out thick. You do not want to lay on too much. This will cause I build up of the coating. Once you feel comfortable with it move on to the car. I recommend painting in quick spurts/blast, instead of a continuous spray. That tends to cause excess build up.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540828938/" title="IMAG0425 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5540828938_8d0f548e68.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0425" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540252331/" title="IMAG0426 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5540252331_0b566453d4.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0426" /></a>
After applying the undercoat to the desired taped off spot, allow it to dry. If you are wondering if it is dry or not, DO NOT touch where you have painted, simply touch the paper around it to see the condition. I let mine sit for a good 20 minutes.
Once dry remove the paper and masking tape. Be sure to take it nice and easy when doing so. Do not do in a careless manner. Chances are you will not damage the undercoating when removing, but you always want to be sure.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540871214/" title="IMAG0428 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5540871214_1023627abf.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0428" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5540872426/" title="IMAG0429 by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5540872426_66c0197d17.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0429" /></a>
I continued my coating onto the rear bumper slightly as well. I had chipping going on on the bumper and decided to put a stop to is as well. What you decide to coat is all up to you.
This concludes the DIY: Rear Quarter Panel Lip Rust/Paint Chip Repair article. Hope it works for you.
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