Installation of aluminum rear differential bushings (2G)

[absolute_DSM]

If your rear differential bushings are shot, you risk damage to your differential from all the movement that occurs.
You have a couple options -
1. Buy a different subframe (usually has bad rust)
2. Buy a new subframe ($$$$$$$)
3. Have someone CNC some aluminum bushings for you.

I picked up some trick CNCed aluminum bushings for my rear diff from Dan Lewis over at Aspirated Performance here in Iowa. Very good guy with great communication and very quick shipping. Cost was $65 shipped with very good communication and quick shipping.


All steps after will assume the subframe is out of the car ready to pull the differential.

Tools Needed -
Sawsall or equivalent
Ball peen hammer
Chisel/large screwdrivers
1/2 ratchet/22mm socket with breaker bar OR impact gun/ mm socket
22mm wrench or visegrips
Block of wood
Shop press
Drill with large drill bit
Dremel or equivalent with some sanding stones or carbides and a wire wheel

The Teardown
1. Start by pulling the diff from the subframe. There are 3 bolts to remove.
Front bolt
- Put a wrench or visegrip on the nut, and use your ratchet or impact to bust the bolt loose.

Rear bolts
- Use your ratchet with breaker bar or impact to bust these loose. Mine were rust welded in the sleeves, so an impact spun the bolt and sleeve and ruined the bushings. (hence my journey here)



2. Now that the diff is out of the way, lets start by getting the rear bushings and sleeves out of the subframe. I looked at this, the first time I saw them, as a Prothane motor mount install. Its the same setup. A thin sleeve pressed into the subframe with some bonded rubber holding in the inner sleeve. Following is one way to do it, I can get a bushing out in about 15 minutes this way. Using a torch to burn the rubber out, then cut the sleeve works the same way.
- Drill a lot of holes in the rubber, closer the better.



- Cut the rubber with the sawsall and beat the inner sleeve out with the ball peen.



- Get out your sawsall and cut through the rubber and the sleeve. Make sure NOT to cut into the subframe!

Note: a hacksaw will take you about 3 years to get this done. Save yourself the headache and use power tools.




Here comes the fun part.
- Once youve cut through the sleeve, use a hammer and chisel or screwdriver to start getting the sleeve to peel away from the subframe. If you cant get the sleeve to peel away, you may not have cut far enough into it with the sawsall. Use your best judgement.
Follow the pics and video below to see the technique.

Some tips -
- Make sure you work your way around the sleeve, not just beating a 1/2" section, youre going to be doing it forever that way. Start at the cut, then move around the sleeve.
- Get one side of the cut started, then move to the other and start that side. Its not important to keep them even, but you may notice how easy they pop out with little force and more strategy.
- Peel away almost 75% of the diameter of the sleeve on both sides, the more = the easier it will come out.
- Peel over 50% into the depth of the sleeve, the more = the easier it will come out.




Click here to see a vid of how to "work" the sleeve.

- Once you get the sides peeled away you can put your chisel right on the point where you cut and the "flaps" overlap and just hammer the sleeve out. Youll be surprised how easy it pops out.

[absolute_DSM]

Reinstallation
1. The front bushing is very easy. Dont over think it. Get yourself access to a press and press it in. Easy as that.



2. The rear bushings are another story. I actually tried putting it in the press and found that without proper support, it likes to flex A LOT, and I wasnt having that. (Pic is after I already installed them. I just wanted to see if it would work at all)



- Now heres how we accomplish this task. You need to grab your ball peen and that block of wood. (the wood is to prevent mushrooming of the "soft" bushing.
- Set the aluminum bushing on the hole and tap it a bit to get it straight and centered.
- Now give it hell. YOU are the human press. - If you are questioning this, Dan also did this the same way without a problem. AND Im going to tell you, its going to tire you out. Grab a bigger hammer once you get it started for an easier approach.

Some tips
- Dont use anything too thin. I mushroomed mine a bit and had to use a carbibe to get the holes back to size so the bolts would drop through.
- Use hard wood, not some soft wood. I broke a few 2x4s in half before resulting to my thinner aluminum piece that got a beating.





And there you have it.




I cant do any review on these bushings yet as the car isnt on the road yet! But Ill do my best to remember to update as I go. I know the gear noise is going to be increased, but I have another car if I get too annoyed.