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Head Unit install

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93daytona

20+ Year Contributor
38
0
Dec 9, 2002
boothwyn, Pennsylvania
Hey guys, i searched for this but didnt find what i was looking for. im installing a head unit for this girl i know. ive never really looked at the dash of a 2g eclipse so does the trim just pop off around the head unit? also im not sure if it has the infinity system or not. if it does have the infinity system, does the head unit send the amp a high level signal or a low level system? if its a low level (rca level) signal, would i be able to get rca ends and use them to connect the harness to the front and rear rca outputs? i know this is how the bose systems are set up but ive never worked with an infinity before. thanks
 
You can get a metra wire harness that will plug into the factory harness. Just hook up the wires from the radio accordingly to the metra wire harness and just plug it into the factory plug and that's it. The only thing is that the sound quality sucks with the factory amp and a aftermarket head unit. It will not sound as good as the factory head unit. You lose some bottom end to the music. It would be nice if they made something that bypasses the factory amp, but I am pretty sure that they don't. The trim ring around the radio opening pops off. I find it easier to install by taking out the center console. Four screws hold the factory radio in.
 
Basically the same as he said, use the metra harness and then get a dash kit, you can either use the factory brackets with an extra pocket underneath to fill the space or get the dash kit that incorporates both together. Past that just lock the cage from the aftermarket deck in to the kit and your ready to roll. Infininty system won't matter except like he said the sound quality could be a little lower. Also at high levels the amp will shut off and produce no sound until you turn the deck off, let the amp cool for like 10 secs and turn the deck back on. Its best to remove the factory amp and allow the deck to push the speakers. Good luck, Mike
 
thanks....im fine with wiring everything up and all, its just that this is the first time im gonna be installing a h/u in a car thats not mine or a close firends. i didnt wanna go n tug on the trim around the hu and have it snap. thanx for the info on the infinity system also
 
First, unsnap the trim ring from where the bump is right under the climate controls. Then work your way down the trim ring . There are 4 snaps total holding in the trim.
 
Originally posted by FearceDSM
First, unsnap the trim ring from where the bump is right under the climate controls. Then work your way down the trim ring . There are 4 snaps total holding in the trim.


^^ yup ..the console has 6 screws holding it in ( if ya want to get it out of the way ) 2 under the trim ring,2under the ashtray and 1 on each side in the rear.there is also some connections -- there is a light near the ashtray and plugs on the lighter. the radio itself has 4 screws holding it in.
 
Dave99gst
Have you or anyone that you know bypassed the factory amp? Aftermarket H/U's with the factory amp sounds subpar. I am at the point where I am going to just run new wires to each speaker. Sorry for jacking the thread.
 
93daytona
Actually, what I just asked pertains to you as well because the girl might notice the diminished sound quality and she might want to know why.
 
Originally posted by FearceDSM
Dave99gst
Have you or anyone that you know bypassed the factory amp? Aftermarket H/U's with the factory amp sounds subpar. I am at the point where I am going to just run new wires to each speaker. Sorry for jacking the thread.

In my car, i went with total new -- so ya i just ran new wires.
 
Rewiring the back speakers is pretty simple, but the doors seem to be a different story. Any tips on getting the doors done as painless as possible? Thanks.
 
There are a couple different ways to bypass your factory amp that is under the passenger seat. First you can run all new speaker wires to each of the speakers, but like was said the rear speakers are easy and the fronts and are a pain in the ass because the gromet is next to impossible to fit any wires through. My suggestion is this: Remove the amp from under the seat. Next run a positive and negative speaker wire , for each channel, from the deck to the exsisting location of the infinty amp. From there take the signal output harness that did plug into the amp and hack it apart to connect each line you ran from the deck to the exsisting stock speaker cables running the amp. Now you wondering which lines go to which speakers right? Take a battery from a powerdrill preferable 9.6 volts or less and pop each speaker. Take one line that you think is a speaker line, place it on the positive terminal of the battery, then touch all the other exsisting lines and tap it to the negative. When you match up the positive with the negative of one of the speakers you will hear a pop. Tape it off, mark which speaker it is and continue until you find them all. Now be careful when you find the positive and the negative not to hold it on the battery for too long because you can damage the speaker, but a few seconds will be fine. Good luck, Mike
 
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