12 inch subs

[D-Money]

yea I wanted to install two 12 inch subs in my ride and put them in myself without a box. and get a peice of wood or something else to fit the trunk cut 2 holes in it and drop the subs in and connect them to the amp. my friend says this is a bad idea because all I will hear is distorted bass because theres nothing to take the air out or something. is this true if so whats a better option for lots of bass but not a heavy setup.

 

[ryan2987]

I work at a car audio shoppe and we have never had a problem with the bass. When you say your just going to drop a piece of wood in or are you going to build a false floor. False floor would be the best way to go, you dont even have to build it up that high. Also use MDF board. Hope that helps

 

[redgst97]

YES,
you need to seperate the rear of the woofer from the front of the woofer. More importantly is to seperate the sound "wave". Thay is why you have subs in boxes...the wave from the front is seperate from the wave from the rear of the sub.

In some cars, you can do what is termed a "free-air" application...but not a hatch. You would need a sedan for that. Sort of like a sedan that has 6x9 speakers in the rear deck....that idea approaches what freee-air is, but not quite.

Build a box. You can use fiberglass, and it will be somewhat lighter than wood (if done properly)

John

 

[espydur]

Originally posted by D-Money
yea I wanted to install two 12 inch subs in my ride and put them in myself without a box. and get a peice of wood or something else to fit the trunk cut 2 holes in it and drop the subs in and connect them to the amp. my friend says this is a bad idea because all I will hear is distorted bass because theres nothing to take the air out or something. is this true if so whats a better option for lots of bass but not a heavy setup.

!!!!!!!! you gotta be joking right? if you want subs, you gotta get a box also...a strong, solid, and (unfortunatley) heavy box. there's no way around it.

best way to keep it light as possible is to get a good sub that requires a small box. i'd look into getting ONE really nice 12 that will fit in a small ported box and an amp that sufficiently powers it....that means (for example) if the sub calls for 200-600w RMS (not max)....get an amp that puts out 600w RMS (not max). you could easily be hitting over 140 dBs. with the right setup and i doubt you'd be disappointed. goodluck!

 

[eclipx]

you know, to a degree boxes almost make more of a difference than the actual sub does. you would be very suprised. its also bad for the sub if you mess up the diumensions. dont be a cheap fool, you cant cut corners with auido.

 

[TuRbOsPoRtTaLoN]

all i have in mine is 2 MTX 12" 4000 series, enclosed in a fiberglass box, mated to a MTX 400 w amp (the new series w/ the chrome, i forget the model number) and that #@%#@%#@%#@%#@% is too loud. i have to keep my amp on 2 and the bass on my head unit all the way down just to not get pulled over, and it still vibrates the seats (and your teeth, throat, etc). so you dont need a whole lot in a dsm, the hatchback is awesome..

i would suggest one 12" JL W7 with a smaller amp to get really good sound, and to have it hit hard. if you are running your factory wing, you should take it off and put an aftermarket on, because the factory buzzes like crazy. so do the interior side panels in the back seat, the hatch lid, and your lisence plate (if its on the back).. its a really good idea to do some insulation to stop other areas from buzzing like crazy.

-jay

 

[espydur]

Originally posted by TuRbOsPoRtTaLoN
if you are running your factory wing, you should take it off and put an aftermarket on, because the factory buzzes like crazy. so do the interior side panels in the back seat, the hatch lid, and your lisence plate (if its on the back).. its a really good idea to do some insulation to stop other areas from buzzing like crazy.

-jay

what's your reasoning behind the idea that an aftermarket wing would be any better than the factory wing? if anything it would be worse because aftermarket wings usually don't fit as perfectly as the factory.

also,yeah, you can use dynomat or similar dampening material, but no matter what you're always gonna have some rattle....especially in a dsm. overtime, things loosen up inside your car and the majority of the rattling you will never be able to pinpoint because of the obscure locations. plus sound dampening material adds alot of weight to your car. only 2 sure fire solutions.....not as much bass....or make it so loud you can't hear the rattle

 

[TuRbOsPoRtTaLoN]

a friend of mine has a 98 gsx with a wing he pulled from a 4th gen prelude on the back, and he dynomatted his entire car, the only thing you can hear rattle is the lisence plate. his stock wing buzzed like crazy. im just running no wing on my car now.. (95-96 wings are #@%#@%#@% anyway)