What's that noise

[asian312]

Ok, I have a really strange whining noise coming from my speakers. This might sound trivial (bad wires, blown speaker, ect.), But I know it's not b/c the system is new and didn't do this until I remounted the amp. Also that the noise will remain on even after the speakers are not pumping anymore jams, until the amp cuts. It's probably something to do with the amount of current being drawn from the system. It was mentioned to me that it may be a bad set of spark plug wires causing this. I found this strange, so I thought I'ld run it by u guys. What cha think? Possible suspects?

 

[OneSickTSi]

Even though you put this thread in the wrong forum, i'll still see if i can help you. when you say "amp" i'm going to imply that you bought an amp and installed it in your DSM to run subwoofers or amplify the speakers, one problem that you can run into is that you put your RCA (red and white) cables too close to the REMOTE wire, if that is true, try running the RCAs on one side of the car with the REMOTE on the other, and also check your ground, it shouldn't be any longer than 3 ft. though the ground wont make the high pitched sound in your speakers. hope you diagnos the problem and get it solved. take it easy
Chris

 

[OneSickTSi]

don't believe the "spark plugs" cause that horse sh!t, the plugs don't run the audio, its only the battery and that wouldn't make its all screwy

 

[Nick 4g63]

ground everything properly and that noise will go away.

 

[markmakeitso]

the plug wires can cause interferance with radio reception, although i believe most wires have some way (wire lining or certain resistance, i'm not sure) to stop the static. i'd say it's doubtful but physically possible.

does the whining noise go away when the engine is off and the radio on? if not your problem isn't your plug wires, or probably anything else directly related to the engine or alternator.

 

[ECLIPSEDNIGHT]

mine just started doing this. It picks up engine niose. I checked all the grounds and can't find any problems in the stereo grounds. I suppose i will go double check.

 

[Airpoppoff]

all ya have to do really is just try and relocate the wires a little bit, see if that has anything to do with it, if not get new wire

 

[asian312]

Still not sure what it is. The noise is only present when the engine is on. If the radio is on and engine off, no noise. Think I'll be picking up a set off Accell wires here in the near future anyways. My stock ones are 130K old.

 

[Airpoppoff]

do that then post back here i want to know if that actually will fix it, does it do it ALL the time when your driving???? No matter what????

 

[alIan]

My dad's isuzu used to pick up engine noise. We turned to a certain AM wavelength and could hear ourselves revving the engine over the speakers... it was freekin hilarious

 

[cucumber]

Make sure everything is securely grounded.

 

[DrZiplok]

There are three basic sources of noise in your car:

1) Power-coupled noise. This is noise due to current loads (including the alternator) which is impressed on the 12V supply, and which makes its way through the power supply filtering of your audio equipment. Car audio gear is notoriously bargain-basement in many regards and power supply is one, especially since effective filtering requires large and expensive components.

2) Ground-induced noise. This noise is injected when currents in the ground path move a piece of equipment's ground reference, effectively generating an input signal where there is none. It can be mitigated with good signal grounding, however long signal paths mean the signal ground line becomes significantly inductive, reducing its effectiveness.

3) Induced noise. This is noise caused by reception of radiant EMF, typically in poorly shielded signal paths. Ignition systems are about the only significant EMF source in your car; 'hotter' ignition systems can generate quite significant amounts of noise in poorly shielded circuits.

In your case, I'd suspect 1) or 2). Make sure that you route all your audio systems' power and grounds through the same points, ie. feed all your power through a single filter/breaker pair, and run all your grounds back to a single common ground point. The dash-floor chassis bolts on the RHS of the tunnel are a good point on a 1G; I'm not sure about the 2G. If the bulk of your power handling is in the back, obviously you want to do it there to keep the high-current ground lines short.

Hope this helps.