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brake calipers.

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redg1clipse

Banned Member
66
0
Oct 27, 2005
west chester, Ohio
ok, so my car has been sitting without a motor for like, a while now, and its gone through hell and back with the crappy ohio weather, for example, the almost three feet of snow we got this winter and then the wet rains for days in the summer and spring, and my calipers and rotor are completer rusted, i know that rust isnt bad, but these are pretty bad, like, they look as if they are rusted all the way through, so should i get knew ones or will these be ok? and if so, does anyone have any aftermarket brake rotors and calipers? thanks guys
cody
 
1. If they are completely rusted through, then they were so thin it's a miracle you didn't kill yourself.

2. Expect surface rust when not driven. Period. After you take it for a spin, it'll squeal as it removes the rust. I might consider new pads if it really is that bad because you are going to put a lot of crap on them but they should rub clean. Just make sure after you take it for a spin to get most of the rust off, you check for grooving on your rotor to ensure nothing got stuck on the pad and is wearing away your rotor.

d
 
Check the e-brake mechanism on the rear calipers. If they're siezed, then the e-brake won't properly disengage and you'll wear the pads out very quickly.
 
well, i just replaced my caliper, and suprisingly, the cheapest i could find it used was $130, and a new one was only $20 bucks more from the satan, so i just forked out the $150 and got a brand new caliper.
 
:dsm: so like, when i turn off my ebrake, my light stays on in the dash saying its still on, so is this a problem? and yeah, rotors are almost totaly screwed, went for a spin last nite when dad wasnt home, and like, i almost couldnt stop, pretty much smelled really bad when i got out, so i think my ebrake is stuck on.
cody
 
Flat Tire said:
well, i just replaced my caliper, and suprisingly, the cheapest i could find it used was $130, and a new one was only $20 bucks more from the satan, so i just forked out the $150 and got a brand new caliper.

Wow, I got 2 new loaded AWD front calipers for $108 from Autozone.
 
hmm...that's crappy on my part, the guy at my autozone must of been a new guy or just a tool that didn't want to do his job, as they told me they didn't carry the awd calipers.
 
Theres 3 autozones around here and not all of them carry the same parts. For example, there is a power steering filter that I only found at one of them, its was 19$ so I just washed mine out.
 
Phat95Talon said:
So only one had to be replaced?

My car has been sitting for a year so I'm a little woried about mine too.

Pick up one of those rear caliper tools that adapt to your socket wrench. Use that to try to press the piston into the caliper. It may take some elbow grease, but they should compress back into the caliper. If not, that's a problem.

From my experience though, my calipers froze up because of the parking brake mechanism. It's a spring loaded arm that pulls one side of the caliper to the rotor when it's engaged. When it freezes up, that mechanism doesn't return to it's normal position and the pad stays pressed against the rotor. Make sure that spring loaded arm can move about and return to it's starting point.
 
redg1clipse said:
:dsm: so like, when i turn off my ebrake, my light stays on in the dash saying its still on, so is this a problem?
Re-fill your master cylinder resevoir.
and yeah, rotors are almost totaly screwed, went for a spin last nite when dad wasnt home, and like, i almost couldnt stop, pretty much smelled really bad when i got out, so i think my ebrake is stuck on.
cody
Feel your wheels to find the hot one. That's your seized brake.

For those pointing out that you type like an orangutan, please let the Moderators do the moderating. We're used to soaking up the flak from it. Use the Report this post to Moderators button.
 
Oh, and If you need to refill your master cylinder (what the brake light means, like Defiant said) check ALL brake lines to figure out where the fluid is going. On my SVX I had the light come on, which I then just added fluid. Found out after the light came on again, that it was because my right front rubber brake line had a small hole... This then cost me the brand new brake pad that was on there because the decrease pressure cocked the pad back and wore it down on an angle... Moral of the story is, if you have less brakefluid in your cylinder than you did when you put it there... Its going somewhere.
 
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