Removing just padded dash portion

[sc2_ct]

Well, I asked a similar question before but didn't quite get the information that I was looking for. I have my entire interior torn apart with the exception of the hatch area and some minor trim pieces on the inside, and am wondering which way to go with the dashboard. I was wondering if it is possible to remove just the padded portion of the dash without pulling the entire dash assembly out of the vehicle? I can see the bolts where the kneepad/glove box are and was wondering if after I pull the rest of the insturment console trim if I can just pull out the padded part? I'd rather not have to go through and disconnect all of my cables, but I'd definately like to fiberglass a replacement for that one padded piece.

I'll probably have the rest of it apart in a couple of days but figured I'd ask in any case since it would definately help with my planning to know one way or the other before I start tearing into it.

For reference, here's the original thread I posted on this subject:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171824

 

[HighPsi92GST]

unless you want to do a tear job and rip the cover out, the best way is to remove the dash first. not to mention that would make the glass work alot easier and you will be less likly to die from the fumes in your car while working on the glass

 

[sc2_ct]

Okay, for the sake of anyone else that ever searches on this subject, I wanted to follow up and say that there is no practical way to remove the padded portion without yanking out the entire dash assembly. It is secured to the dash assembly with eight nuts and two screws, as well as 4-5 tabs that must be bent up and out of the way. The fact that access to a number of the nuts are blocked by the air vents and the lack of openings to get behind the dash make complete removal necessary. If you are trying to go by a Chilton's or Hayne's manual, you don't actually have to pull the steering wheel though, it is enough to just shift a manual car into 2-4-R (2 would probably work best) or just move the selector back all the way for an automatic car.

Once the dash is out you have to remove the ducting by taking out the screws that secure it in place and then you can reach all the tabs and nuts.

Now on to the fun part -- fiberglassing a replacement and molding it to the stamped steel frame

 

[HighPsi92GST]

there is no practical way to remove the padded portion without yanking out the entire dash assembly

Right again ->

unless you want to do a tear job and rip the cover out, the best way is to remove the dash first.

good luck with the project and post pics

 

[sc2_ct]

good luck with the project and post pics

, there's lots of work left to do, but having the pieces apart will make things go a lot faster. I've got the whole dash disassembled in the basement and am just starting to mask the frame, and the padding is getting glued back in place (another couple hours and the glue should set). Next comes a mold and then a casting of of the padded portion, then strip off all the vinyl/foam and bond the casting to the metal and re-shaping. Phase 1 will be a mostly stock-looking replacement, but since I'll have all the molds at that point, I can start on phase 2 which is a total re-design of the entire assembly with new doors, quarter panels and hatch area to match.

I've tried my hardest to keep this car stock for daily driving, but the damn mod-bug bit me again and now I have half the engine bay and the whole interior torn apart while the parts start flooding in

Pics will definately start coming as soon as I've got something more than a mess and masking tape to show for myself .