chris97pittman
15+ Year Contributor
- 242
- 0
- May 10, 2004
-
Bellingham,
Washington
Ok I'm planning on making my own box for my subs and firing them down into my hatch, what kind of wood is best, where do I find it and how much does it cost, Thanks.
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Anyway, get some 3/4" MDF, and make sure your cuts are perfect and you predrill the screw hole with a slightly smaller bit than the screw, or you will split the wood. Also countersink the heads of the screws flush with the board so when you cover the box it looks good. Use fine threaded drywall screws that are ~2" long. The screws need to be no more than 3" apart. And do not get too close to the end of the board (1.5"), it will split even if you predrill the hole. Make sure you get the boxes corners sealed good with silicon. Just get some DAP clear silicon from Walmart or the hardware store. Remember that you don't need too much to seal it, just a small bead spread in with you finger. If you really want the box to be sealed, paint the inside of it to seal the pores of the wood.
They are relying on the glue to hold the enclosure together which just won't cut it with high-powered/bigger woofer setups. Of course you can always use a jointer to make the sides "slide" together. I have done this a couple of times, and it is more of less a waste of time, unless you are using a CNC router. I believe Subzone and a couple other prefab box manufactures use this technique. It is easier for them to make a 10000 boxes that slide and tack together rather than have to screw or carefully staple the enclosures together.Mackzero said:You will want to use MDF as plywood generally "flexes" too much. I have never used it for anything in car audio if I recall. Even "back in the day"Anyway, get some 3/4" MDF, and make sure your cuts are perfect and you predrill the screw hole with a slightly smaller bit than the screw, or you will split the wood. Also countersink the heads of the screws flush with the board so when you cover the box it looks good. Use fine threaded drywall screws that are ~2" long. The screws need to be no more than 3" apart. And do not get too close to the end of the board (1.5"), it will split even if you predrill the hole. Make sure you get the boxes corners sealed good with silicon. Just get some DAP clear silicon from Walmart or the hardware store. Remember that you don't need too much to seal it, just a small bead spread in with you finger. If you really want the box to be sealed, paint the inside of it to seal the pores of the wood.
Use a thin strip of weather stripping to seal the woofer when you screw it down. Seal the terminals you use in it also with weather stripping. Good luck, let me know if you have any questions, I could more than likely answer them for you.
devlish said:couldn't have put it better myself!![]()
as for the nail gun question... i use one but only to hold the boards in place before i screw it together. to make sure everything fits snug. i also use a good amount of woodglue on all the seams. screws 3"-4" apart. for the inside, i buy Plasti-Cote SprayIn Truck Bedliner in the spray cans and cover the entire inside of the box after i silicone the seams. seals in nicely! (i get whatever color is on sale that week, they all work the same!)
BTW, Oak plywood would suck. solid Oak is probably the strongest... but $$$
I have also done the spray in liner thing, or spray in Dynamat, etc. I also use the stapler to tach the boards before I screw them. Some boxes you can get away with the stapler only, just not boxes for like a W7 sub or something like it. 