Rebuliding bottom end...possibly

[GOTNOS]

What is the list of parts I need to build bottom end(everything)? I'm thinking of just doing it now instead of having to do it when the motor blows up. I also don't want anything from howell automotive...too many people on here waiting for things they ordered.

 

[selmerguy]

if you go to howells site it tells you what is in there rebuild kits. you can pick and choose what parts to replace and what not to. but you should replace rods, pistons, and rings. low compression pistons and forged rods are a must.(pistons are forged as well)

 

[SnoopySLR]

I hate howell. I don't like the attitudes people there have. I won't deal with them anymore. Modern Performance is a good shop. I got all my internals from them.

Piston's. piston rings, rods, bearings, and seals make up your basic bottom end rebuild.

 

[selmerguy]

snoopy dude you rock. hey your car looks great. i did kinda the same thing to the back seat. who needs it.

 

[SnoopySLR]

my interior doesn't look anything like that anymore. I hope I get this done soon. I'll be posting pics when its done. I think you guys are going to like it

 

[DSM-ZERO]

yea I have also ordered from howell before and only had one problem when they sent my the wrong part
BUT
I would also suggest ARP head and main studs
and a nice metal head gasket
also a new timming belt
oil pump
and maybe a new water pump
might as well do those things while the motor is out

 

[SnoopySLR]

Yeas, deffinatly the MLS head gasket. Water pump only if yours isn't spinning freely. Our oil pumps hardly ever go bad. Its not nessasary to replace it, but its not that expensive.

ARP headstuds are a must. You can't reuse your stock head bolts, but you can reuse the ARP head studs. The main bolts are optional. I've never seen one of our motors break one of those.

If you got the money, replace everything... but that gets really expensive.

 

[GOTNOS]

yea I have also ordered from howell before and only had one problem when they sent my the wrong part
BUT
I would also suggest ARP head and main studs
and a nice metal head gasket
also a new timming belt
oil pump
and maybe a new water pump
might as well do those things while the motor is out

Do I have to replace timing belt if it only has about 3k miles on it?
I have new oil pump and water pump already.
I have to watch how much money I spend, but at the same time I have to do this right also. Is it best to bore, and hone block? I guess for starters I'll have to let you know that I'm not after major HP. I drive the car once in a great while and I'm not racing it. I just want to boost safe without the worry when my motor will blow. I read somewhere about our top end works fine and just to build bottom end. What do you think? Or will it need new cams? what about injectors? I would like to boost around 15psi. Does anyone know the perfect set up. Isn't there some formula how this all works together?

 

[SnoopySLR]

your not looking for HP... but you want to boost at 15psi.... kinda an oximoron. Thats gonna give you some nice numbers. You could just rebuild your bottom end, make sure the top end is in good shape, and boost at 9-10psi all day long. You can do 15psi, but your going to need some fuel mods.

I'm not gonna lie, I don't know much about fuel systems. There are some guys on here who really know fuel systems. Do some searching, and just try to learn.

Your timing belt will be OK. Just make sure when you take it off you mark which way it was turning.

I'm gonna try to break it down. To run a constant, reliable 9-10psi you will need this.

JE Pistons (Stock or lower compression...preferably lower)
JE Piston rings
Eagle Forged Rods (don't get long rods... ups compression)
Main and Rod Bearings
ARP head studs
MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) Head Gasket

These should come with your turbo kit.
Warblo 255
Vortech 12:1 FMU

If your wanting to run more boost, like I said you need to up your fuel system more than that... Aeromotive 1:1 FPR and bigger injectors is what your probably going to need.

Probably a better clutch. All in all, thats what you need... if I missed anything, take me out back and stone me.

 

[DSM-ZERO]

I would suggest the Aeromotive FPR and a 255 intank
the afpr is easy to tune that is what I use
as far as inj's I say 440cc or bigger but not to big if your not after high hp

 

[pr0]

Don't buy from howell unless you are willing to wait a good half year. I have been waiting for my turbo setup since Oct. They shipped it 4 months after I paid and the wrong fuel system. Then I had to pay for the shipping to send it back and still my setup isn't complete because im so broke I had to ship out the fuel system by Ground. :thumbdown

 

[GOTNOS]

Don't buy from howell unless you are willing to wait a good half year. I have been waiting for my turbo setup since Oct. They shipped it 4 months after I paid and the wrong fuel system. Then I had to pay for the shipping to send it back and still my setup isn't complete because im so broke I had to ship out the fuel system by Ground. :thumbdown

Contact the BBB. File against them...also get your money back for shipping. Always pay credit card if you don't get what you paid for it is alot easier getting your money back. Howell sucks ass. Sorry to hear that your still waiting..also if you bought this and paid online file with internet fraud. You shouldn't have to be waiting for your turbo set up there is nothing truely about a turbo set up that you just can't happen to get parts with'in a month.

 

[GOTNOS]

Well I have a small head gasket leak on the back of my block...not sure what problems is if any, would this cause my running really rich. I got my car at a steady idle but my A/F gauge is pegged out. Can't figure out why. I did a vaccum test and nothing. But my rebuild has to do with the long run. I travel long distances to shows I don't want to be setting somewhere because I blew my motor. The head gasket was just a simple push to say yeah lets rebuild it. I'm going to have to somehow get a grip on this fuel though. If computer is not adjusting I'm going to have to do some kind of stand alone fuel management. That will take care of the problem for sure...but very pricey. The motor is coming out next week. I got a price on the bore,honing, and wash..$150.00. Any help with fuel set-up keep posting...not sure what I want to do.

 

[DSM-ZERO]

this is what you should do

 

[GOTNOS]

this is what you should do

what should I do?

 

[DSM-ZERO]

sorry my pc was being stupid
THIS as part of your fuel system, This is my fuel rail

 

[GOTNOS]

What kind of fuel rail is that?

 

[DSM-ZERO]

It is a custom one I made
you could probley get away with using an OBX fuel rail

 

[GOTNOS]

Well, my motor is out...my answer to my TOO MUCH FUEL topic... leak in headgasket and coolant in oil. So my fmu might be fine. I had posted before that I might of had my FMU hook-up backwards..well I didn't it was fine. It took about 7 hrs to get the motor out and another 2 to rip it down. On monday it is off to the machine shop. I will keep everyone posted on the rebuild. To do this right and looking at the long run...oil pump, alternator, starter and axles are going to be replaced. Anything that you might know of that goes bad and is at a hard to reach area please post...I want to make sure I get everything so all runs well. I do believe in the "if it's not broke don't fix it" but I also can't spend all this time into rebuild to rip half the motor apart to fix something.

 

[SnoopySLR]

Make sure you get your crank checked. With coolant in your oil, thats basically acid eating the oil in your bearings out, making your crank wear. When the motor on my mustang blew, thats what happened. The coolant in the oil ate all the oil out of rod #1 and seized it.

I got over sized crank and rod bearings, and the machine shop that resized my crank and block did an awesome job.