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420a turbo for 8psi

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Morales92

10+ Year Contributor
223
39
Jan 15, 2009
Anaheim, California
well i just blew my engine using my stock engine it had a lot of miles on it. 190,000 to be exact but ive never had problems until it finally blew with the turbo so im wondering if a fresh stock engine would handle 8psi or where can i get a bottom built that wont be so expensive or which pistons could i buy that wont be expensive that can handle 8psi. If the bottom is built and can handle a lot of hp im not looking for more than 10psi. I have the Hahn stage 2 turbo kit by the way. thank you.
 
I've seen stock rebuilt shortblock's for 1299.99, and nearly double that for a forged assembly. Honestly, if you don't plan on ever going over 10 psi I would stick to a stock rebuild and save yourself some cash since you never really need the forged parts. You can run 10 psi stock, if you have all of the supporting fuel mods, but to do those you will need something to control fuel (SAFC, Megasquirt, ect..).
 
if i were to go with stock i would just stick to 8psi just to be safe. would i still need the SAFC? The only thing i have is the FMU
 
SAFC on a boosted 420a is only useful in awkward and convoluted setups - these setups are usually best avoided.
 
so i should be fine with a fresh rebuilt motor at 8psi with no SAFC and just FMU? dont want my engine taking a dump on me again.
 
i still have it i lost compression in two of my pistons. one of the pistons is cracked and the other is just wasted. I had 190,000 miles when it went in so i think thats why it blew since something was already waiting to go bad.
 
I would suggest to build it with stronger internals, just don't drop your CR if your not going to run much boost. Because it might cost 2-300 more than a stock rebuild but you'll have stronger rods and pistons in there to take the boost.
 
Pistons don't typically just up and break for no reason. I'd recommend that you try to discover what caused your stuff to break in the first place.
 
my 26 psi build was on 8.8:1 JE pistons. i would assume they are pretty strong LOL those are $500-600 pistons also.
 
Pistons don't typically just up and break for no reason. I'd recommend that you try to discover what caused your stuff to break in the first place.

I agree with this.


I would suggest to build it with stronger internals, just don't drop your CR if your not going to run much boost. Because it might cost 2-300 more than a stock rebuild but you'll have stronger rods and pistons in there to take the boost.

Where are you finding this build at? Every prebuilt shortblock that I have seen jumps way more than that. Just the forged pistons and rods cost upwards of 800 bucks, so I doubt you find one that is only $300 more.
 
I would strongly suggest that you just go with the forged build, yes its going to cost a little more but you will know you got the security of running more than 8-10lbs in the future, I am currently building a motor for boost that consists of custom ross pistons for the 420a and eagle h beam rods. Im going to be boosting 22 daily with all supporting mods
 
well if anything i just want 8-10psi not looking to go that fast as my car is automatic. so i just want 8-10psi safely without breaking again. I would think that piston cracked cause of how many miles it had. i bought it used at 130,xxx miles in 2005 didnt start using it until 2007 and before the car was used by a company to travel to san fran, las vegas, arizona so it had a lot of highway miles on it.

it cracked where the rings are at.
 
like ive said to you 57658 times in our pMs.. and like others have said, u should build an engien with built componets, or buy one built.. rebuilding yours to stcok for 8 psi , for lets say 1300$ is kinda pointless, when you can spend another $700-800$, and have a built motor, that you can thorw 8 psi at and not worry..

sure, a stocker will hold 8, like ive told you.. some hold 8, some hold 12, some only hold 4.. depends on the tune and what your doing..190 miles is high, but if it were in good shape and tuned, it wouldnt (######)have blown...

your rings broke due to stress, from age and from the turbo, simply adding "aftermarket rings" to a stock motor isnt gong to help you..

here what you need to take away
1: build a stock motor for 1300..
Con: its no stronger then the one you just blew.. whats that tell you..
Pro : its cheaper, until you blow it again..

option 2: spend cash on building a forged motor, or buy one thats already built..
Con: its more money..
Pro: as long as you tune it (which youd have to do with either stock or forged engine) it will take abuse.. the stocker,. not nearly as much..

think of it as insurance..everyone who does this always whines and cries when they blow there brand new stock motor...and then they wish they would have spent the extra to build it..

if you dont want to go fast, then dont turbo it, and save urself headache and money... Its in, or its out..

mine is for sale if you decide to do the wise thing..
 
I'll buy yours for $1800 shipped. called dsmgraveyard asked them about those pistons and they said they can handle boost so i think im going with those and better rods at 8psi
 
like i said, you know my price, and you knwo what its worth..like said above, built builds go for 2x stock builds..so .. no.

good luck ywith your build.. i HOPE for your sake you dont think just trwoing in those componets is going to get you what your looking for.

as for the dsm graveyard part.. hmm, anything can handle boost...looks like a nicely coated stock piston, doesnt look ,or say FORGED..but w.e its your car and money, but when you come crying, dont expect much sympathy.. Idk of anyone else running those, so i cant really say if they are good or not, all i can say is they arent comparable to JE or Wiesco forged pistons..so again, looks like your buying a fancy stock part.. but you dont wanna take our advice.. please proceed..this should be interesting.

stick to options above, either build stock, or build/buy built. dont cut corners.

think about, a built enigne, no worrying bout machine work ect, it shows up on your door, and you drop it in.. it really doesnt get much simpler then that.. considering if you order your pistons, not u gotta take engine out, break it down, get it machined.. now your 450$ psitons turned into a 1000$+ project, since ull have to buy a new headgasket (70$), new head bolts, im sure they arnt cheap, and youll have to get timing components, , the upgrade is 200$, so see how it snow balls?
 
well im building my engine with those and better rods. according to dsmgraveyard they handle more than 10psi he just told me to get better rods because if i were to go lean or something it could cause rod to bend

yea i know but my engine is already out i just have a big space there $1900 is the most i have
 
think about, a built enigne, no worrying bout machine work ect, it shows up on your door, and you drop it in.. it really doesnt get much simpler then that.. considering if you order your pistons, not u gotta take engine out, break it down, get it machined.. now your 450$ psitons turned into a 1000$+ project, since ull have to buy a new headgasket (70$), new head bolts, im sure they arnt cheap, and youll have to get timing components, , the upgrade is 200$, so see how it snow balls?


think about how much your spending now.. 450 for dsm pistons, 300 for rods, machin work , lest say its 200, (yea right), then all new bearings (100-200), Head gasket (70), new timing componets (200) head decked (50) head hard ware (50?) water pump (100) oil pump(150) gaskets ect (100+) plus assymbly costs... if you dont buy/or want to install any of the things ive listed above, then EXPECT to fail.. these things are considered a must when rebuilding..

your at 1500 +? and thats the low side. for an UN-forged / slightly better then stock motor.. so again, think about it before you buy anything..im trying to help you see / figure out things without doing it the hard way, been there done that
 
(blah blah blah) im trying to help you see / figure out things without doing it the hard way, been there done that

No, you're trying to get him to do things YOUR way.


@OP
Factory internals with a proper fuel setup will hold 8psi reliably.

While it is a good idea to have a motor than can handle some knock, the better idea would be to just not knock in the first place. Find out why you blew the last motor.
 
Stock internals here. 8 psi and occasionally creeping up to 10 on long hard pulls. 163640 miles never rebuilt no problems. 3k miles with turbo.
 
Yup . Bc it its proven.. and i said many times stock will hold even 12 psi.. its all in the tuning..but hes starting ith nothing.. im trying to point out that he has other routes to get better parts.. but like i said its his car and cash. I think its pretty widely accepted that once u boost u get a bug.. thats why hes at the perfect point to go built. Why do it 2x when u can do it once.. jus my 02
 
I agree with you completely, Glow, that now is the perfect time to build and that he'll probably get the boost bug. But - you've stated several times already in this thread that fact, and by your admission in PM's to him as well. I'm sure he gets the point.

I'd say we've all gotten the point.

This is non-technical chatter - I'll keep my nose out of it now.
 
well thanks for everybody's help. i would still want to keep my turbo at least at 8psi.
 
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