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Glowshift gauges..( need help with vacuum gauge)

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2GEEZEY

10+ Year Contributor
777
1
Aug 6, 2009
Elgin, Illinois
I need help installing a few gauges( volt, vacuum and air/fuel)

I installed the volt gauge which was a pain because i could not find a hole in the firewall. And when my car is off, the gauge is still lite up red..:confused:

anyone have any suggestions?


and for the vacuum where do i hook up the lines (in the back of the gauge from the intake manifold)
 
the volt gauge is simple just find your 12v wire for a power source (example: use you red 12v battary wire from the back of your radio just splice and connect and youll have your volts working, next find a good engin ground some where thats metal to metal . and thats it your good for your light put black to a good ground and white to anouther 12v the reason your light is still on is beacuse you have your white wire connected to a constant 12volt power source you need to find a 12volt wire that shuts off when car is off then youll be fine like an amp wire or something thats not a constant 12v
 
yeah thats the thing, i connected the red wire to the amp wire right where the amp wire connects to the fuse. then i used the yellow wire and connected it to a wire by the radio that connects to the 12v battery wire and red power wire( those wires go into the radio)

and my gauge still has light when the car is off
 
There's multiple places where you can run lines through the firewall. Most gauges also come with a grommet, so you can even cut a hole if you like.
Connect your vacuum line anywhere on the back on the IM, the gauge probably came with a tee.
You have to be sure to tie the 12v into a switch that doesn't have power till the car is running.
 
Easiest for voltage is the cig lighter or even the light dimmer switch. They're right where you [generally] would mount your gauges.
 
I ran a 12AWG wire through the firewall connecting the battery to two relays. One relay is triggered by the cigarette lighter, while the other is triggered by the "illumination" wire from the stereo harness. All of my gauges' are powered by this first relay, while all of their lights are powered by the second. This system works well and I have plenty of current to work with if I ever need to add more gauges/accessories.
 
VelocitàPaola;152025943 said:
I ran a 12AWG wire through the firewall connecting the battery to two relays. One relay is triggered by the cigarette lighter, while the other is triggered by the "illumination" wire from the stereo harness. All of my gauges' are powered by this first relay, while all of their lights are powered by the second. This system works well and I have plenty of current to work with if I ever need to add more gauges/accessories.

For running multiple gauges, this is the best method. I currently have mine set up this way, except most of my gauges use a photo resistor to control light adjustments for the 8-Segment display, which gives me an idea for controlling the LCD back-light in the knock sense project I got going on. :) I use the ignition to trigger my relay for the gauges from a power block with 4 individual fuses built in. (another fuse at the battery) The block also provides extra juice to another relay that powers the wally.
 
I ran my gauge of the cigarette lighter. Since I don't smoke, I just took it out and used the power wire.
 
i have a glow shift tachometer, i tapped into the white wire behind the cluster... its reading is off by like 1500. if i change it to 3 cyl its about 500 rpms higher... any suggestions on how to fix this???
 
Try 2cyl.. The correct setting should be a multiple of two since the tachometer signal consists of two pulses per revolution of the engine.
 
VelocitàPaola;152046999 said:
Try 2cyl.. The correct setting should be a multiple of two since the tachometer signal consists of two pulses per revolution of the engine.
wouldnt that make the numbers off though? the tach goes to a max of 10K while the stock one is at 9K
 
wouldnt that make the numbers off though? the tach goes to a max of 10K while the stock one is at 9K

If I remember correctly, the tachometer signal for the 420A is one pulse per ignition event (or one pulse per revolution) whereas most tachometers look for a signal with one pulse per complete combustion cycle (or one pulse per two revolutions). So the numbers will be off if you don't adjust the cylinder setting.
 
VelocitàPaola;152051662 said:
If I remember correctly, the tachometer signal for the 420A is one pulse per ignition event (or one pulse per revolution) whereas most tachometers look for a signal with one pulse per complete combustion cycle (or one pulse per two revolutions). So the numbers will be off if you don't adjust the cylinder setting.
ohh, so where would be the best signal connection for the tach? i first connected it to the white wire behind the cluster, but then i switch it to connect directly to the cluster itself to one of the screws which is still in route connecting to where the white wire would be.
 
Here maybe this will help..
TACHOMETER:
The PCM operates the tachometer on the instrument
panel. The PCM calculates engine RPM from the
crankshaft position sensor input.
 
ohh, so where would be the best signal connection for the tach? i first connected it to the white wire behind the cluster, but then i switch it to connect directly to the cluster itself to one of the screws which is still in route connecting to where the white wire would be.

It doesn't matter where you get the signal, as long as it's the right signal. The white wire you found runs from the stock PCM to the gauge cluster. Tapping into this wire, anywhere along its length, is just fine.
 
i changed it to the 2 cyl and the numbers went off the tach itself haha. i barely reved to where it would normally be 4k and on the glowshift tach it went past 10k. ill try taking the signal from the crankshaft posittion sensor as soon as i get the time. i heard that you can take the signal off of the ecu but i have no clue where the ecu is nor what wire to splice it off of.
 
i changed it to the 2 cyl and the numbers went off the tach itself haha. i barely reved to where it would normally be 4k and on the glowshift tach it went past 10k. ill try taking the signal from the crankshaft posittion sensor as soon as i get the time. i heard that you can take the signal off of the ecu but i have no clue where the ecu is nor what wire to splice it off of.

No, you cannot use the signal from the crankshaft position sensor. The sensor doesn't output a signal that the tachometer can use. The white wire connecting to the gauge cluster is the wire from the ECU. Something is wrong with how you have the tachometer configured.
 
VelocitàPaola;152069746 said:
No, you cannot use the signal from the crankshaft position sensor. The sensor doesn't output a signal that the tachometer can use. The white wire connecting to the gauge cluster is the wire from the ECU. Something is wrong with how you have the tachometer configured.
well lately its been doing weird things like keeping its light on, but its dimly lit. i just got back from deployment when i noticed it. i think it may be a difference in wire gauge... most likely, ill test everything out with my multimeter. but you say that the white wire is the best connection, so thats where im gonna connect it. boy am i glad that dsm tuners was made =)
 
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