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wanting to relocate battery, will this work?

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Boostin95RST

15+ Year Contributor
147
0
Mar 17, 2008
cleveland, Ohio
one of my friends told me to relocate the battery to the trunk all i had to do is extend the pos and neg at the terminals and run it under the car to the hatch but i didnt really think it was that easy. am i wrong? i am talking just wire and new terminals, and he also said use 2g wires. sorry for stupid questions i just dont want to start a fire. thanks guyes
 
You can run 2- gauge wire to it with an inline fuse, but i would run them through the car so if you bottom out it wont take the wire with it, and you need to get a battery box, with a vent tube and tie down straps.
 
I just ran a 2ga wire from lowes (positive) through the firewall, under the wire loom under the door sills, and ran it out of the rear side panel into a 200amp fuse and hooked it to the battery (in a plastic vented battery box i bought from walmart) (made for boats). Then just ran the negative cable through the rear panel and hooked it to the bracket that holds the panel. In the end i probably spent $20-$30 and i love the no battery in the engine bay :cool:
 
thats it? is that 200w fuse recomended? and with the neg on the battery, do i just have to ground that to the body somewhere?
 
thanks GUY, you just saved me some ccash because i walked into summit today(i live about 2 min away from summit in tallmadge, ohio) and the dick tried selliiing me a box for 50 bucks and said i wouldnt be able to find one cheeper. i told him that if i couldnt, then i would just make my own before i would pay 50 bucks for a lil plastic box. i could prob make one way nicer out of this aluminum sheeting i have and just weld it up.

GUY, where should i go for the fuse?
 
thanks GUY, you just saved me some ccash because i walked into summit today(i live about 2 min away from summit in tallmadge, ohio) and the dick tried selliiing me a box for 50 bucks and said i wouldnt be able to find one cheeper. i told him that if i couldnt, then i would just make my own before i would pay 50 bucks for a lil plastic box. i could prob make one way nicer out of this aluminum sheeting i have and just weld it up.

Yea i think i payed like 5 bucks for the one i got, Like i said its made for boats and stuff, But it looks like the exact one on summits website.

GUY, where should i go for the fuse?

Here you go, Even got a pretty little volt meter :D

EFX 0/1 GAUGE DIGITAL ANL FUSE HOLDER W/ 200 AMP FUSE - eBay (item 350056391937 end time May-10-08 14:54:09 PDT)
 
I just wanted someone to make it clear for me cause some people say 140a, a wiseman said 130a and now I see 200a... which fuse should I use for either a 2-gauge/ 4-gauge.? Thanks in advance!
 
thank you GUY. im going to buy that fuse holder. and go up to walmart and see if i can find that box.
 
I just wanted someone to make it clear for me cause some people say 140a, a wiseman said 130a and now I see 200a... which fuse should I use for either a 2-gauge/ 4-gauge.? Thanks in advance!
I just used a 200amp because you dont have to worry about it blowing under normal operation, But if it does touch the body some where it will blow, I think its more personal preference than anything.
thank you GUY. im going to buy that fuse holder. and go up to walmart and see if i can find that box.

No prob, Good luck, By the way the box was with all the battery's and comes with a strap and mounting screws :thumb:
 
The reason for the high priced box from summit is very simple it is impact tested and will stand up to lateral acceleration and deceleration. My battery box was $135 and in my opinion it is worth every penny. I would hate to be in the drivers seat of a hatch back talon and rear end someone and then have a 40 pound projectile try and chase me down. To be on the safe side I would not even consider one of those flimsy plastic boxes and risk getting sucker punched by a 40 pound battery.
 
The reason for the high priced box from summit is very simple it is impact tested and will stand up to lateral acceleration and deceleration. My battery box was $135 and in my opinion it is worth every penny. I would hate to be in the drivers seat of a hatch back talon and rear end someone and then have a 40 pound projectile try and chase me down. To be on the safe side I would not even consider one of those flimsy plastic boxes and risk getting sucker punched by a 40 pound battery.

But isn't the box just to protect? Battery boxes usually come with some kind of support to bolt the battery down to the body don't they?
 
This is what I did I ran two 2ga for the positive feed from the engine bay to the new location in the trunk and then made a good short ground for the neg. The twin 2ga is overkill but since my car got totaled for an electrical short/fire I didn't want to take any chances. I laid out the two cables so they are both exactly the same length and have two inline 200w fuses.
 
You also need a cut off switch on the outside of the vehicle if you want to run at the track.
 
The reason for the high priced box from summit is very simple it is impact tested and will stand up to lateral acceleration and deceleration. My battery box was $135 and in my opinion it is worth every penny. I would hate to be in the drivers seat of a hatch back talon and rear end someone and then have a 40 pound projectile try and chase me down. To be on the safe side I would not even consider one of those flimsy plastic boxes and risk getting sucker punched by a 40 pound battery.

The come with straps to secure them to the frame, And just so you know NHRA allows plastic boxes so they most be pretty safe. But hey if you want to spend that kinda of money thats your choice.

You also need a cut off switch on the outside of the vehicle if you want to run at the track.

Yea thats what the rule book says, It really depends on the track though. Some wont say anything, some will throw a fit. Im getting ready to install one just so i dont have to worry about it. I guess i should have mentioned that...:shhh:
 
If you have a lot of time. I would try to place the switch behind the license plate and remove the plate when at the track....I didnt have that much time, so I drilled a hole behind the center tail light peice and placed the switch there. I just pulled out the center section when ever I was at the track.
 
I like to keep the weight out of the rear. I like this simple method;

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Honda battery (don't mind the temp strap - worked good though)

Or even better this;

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13lber in my daily, LOL.

MB
 
Has anybody tried that EBAY fuse holder, yet.... if so please post.... what do you have to do to hook up a cut-off switch in the rear.
 
I like to keep the weight out of the rear. I like this simple method;

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Honda battery (don't mind the temp strap - worked good though)

Or even better this;

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


13lber in my daily, LOL.

MB

Yea but us turbo guys cant do that, Or at least those of us that have a front mount.

Has anybody tried that EBAY fuse holder, yet.... if so please post.... what do you have to do to hook up a cut-off switch in the rear.

Its a fuse holder come on, Sirously how can they mess that up? Ebay stuff isnt nearly as bad as everybody thinks, Just some stuff you have to watch, But not a fuse holder IMO
 
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