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Exhaust for a 95 rs

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Eliminat0r

15+ Year Contributor
1,385
2
Jun 18, 2003
Clinton Township, Michigan
alright well my birthday is coming up and my parents said they'd get em soemthign for my ride as long as its not that expensive. well i really want a new exhast system but i want it to be a nice deep sound not the ricey lawn mower crap i always hear.

question is what exhaust system do you think would be the best

i was thinking thermal but any suggestions will be noted, and also what header i was considering the 4-1 by greddy.

also would it be a good idea to get the downpipe now or wait as ill be buying most of the system theyll just be helping out a little as a gift dp dont cost that much maybe they can buy that
 
well the best exhaust you could probably get would be one from the local muffler shop. pick out the muffler you want and go have 2-1/2 pipe from the CAT back, and get a hi-flo cat. i wouldnt get a downpipe yet, if your gonna do that you will probably need something that will control the A/F ratio (like an APEXi SAF-C) . without your cat the engine will lean out the fuel curve and you dont want that one your stock engine. otherwise unless your parents are gonna spend about $500-600 on you, then a greddy exhaust to match the greddy header you want will probably be out of the question. check out nopi.com or some of the shops around the board for prices.

on the other side of things you could get a nice off the shelf rear-section for around $200, but if you want an all out performance exhaust then i would go with the exhaust from meineke or something.
 
beaty-k_87 said:
well the best exhaust you could probably get would be one from the local muffler shop. pick out the muffler you want and go have 2-1/2 pipe from the CAT back, and get a hi-flo cat. i wouldnt get a downpipe yet, if your gonna do that you will probably need something that will control the A/F ratio (like an APEXi SAF-C) . without your cat the engine will lean out the fuel curve and you dont want that one your stock engine. otherwise unless your parents are gonna spend about $500-600 on you, then a greddy exhaust to match the greddy header you want will probably be out of the question. check out nopi.com or some of the shops around the board for prices.

on the other side of things you could get a nice off the shelf rear-section for around $200, but if you want an all out performance exhaust then i would go with the exhaust from meineke or something.

do the resister mod to the rear o2 sensor and you need not worry about problems with haveing no cat. but if you want to be legal, just get a high flow cat. most headers come with downpipes. and you wont need an afc to have a header.
 
i never said that you had to have an afc to have a header. i said you would probably need one if you got a downpipe.
 
beaty-k_87 said:
i never said that you had to have an afc to have a header. i said you would probably need one if you got a downpipe.

:confused: why would you need one for a downpipe? or a header? or any other exaust performance part? the down pipe is just a replace ment, usually 2.25 inches instead of 2", how would that affect your a/f ratio?
 
it can beleive it or not, youll push more air through the motor without stock restrictions in the system, if you did full exhaust and intake spark plug wires and stuff your a/f ratio will change.

more air+ better exhaust flow= more air going through motor on stock fuel pressure. any change will affect it
 
na90dsm said:
it can beleive it or not, youll push more air through the motor without stock restrictions in the system, if you did full exhaust and intake spark plug wires and stuff your a/f ratio will change.

more air+ better exhaust flow= more air going through motor on stock fuel pressure. any change will affect it

didnt say a word about that stuff, just about exaust. he said the downpipe might make you need one. untrue and im still correct. even with intake, and other stuff, it wouldnt change enough to where you need it, just be nice to tune with to get a little more power.
 
kelvinb said:
im sure it would make a change, but nothing the ecu cant handle its self. dont worry about safc

ok cool, alright back to exhaust thugh which one do you guys think imleaning towards the thermal as i've heard good thing about them, im paying for the exhaust i was just gonna get the parents to buy me the header or dp whiche ver ones cheaper.

also whats the mileage recomendations on the water pump caus i ahev 88k miles and i was owndering if it needs to be replaced at 90k like every other water pump because i heard that on the 2g rs/gs if the water pump goes it could damage the engine.
 
Eliminat0r said:
ok cool, alright back to exhaust thugh which one do you guys think imleaning towards the thermal as i've heard good thing about them, im paying for the exhaust i was just gonna get the parents to buy me the header or dp whiche ver ones cheaper.

also whats the mileage recomendations on the water pump caus i ahev 88k miles and i was owndering if it needs to be replaced at 90k like every other water pump because i heard that on the 2g rs/gs if the water pump goes it could damage the engine.

downpipe and header usually come together.
 
GSGoinFast said:
:confused: why would you need one for a downpipe? or a header? or any other exaust performance part? the down pipe is just a replace ment, usually 2.25 inches instead of 2", how would that affect your a/f ratio?

the o2 sensor will tell that ecu that your car is running rich if you have that much free flow, therefore the ecu will lean out your A/F. and as im sure most of you know running lean will lead to detonation. i am not saying that putting on an exhaust on your car will make your car blow-up, thats not the case, but elimenating the catalytic converter will.
 
na90dsm said:
it can beleive it or not, youll push more air through the motor without stock restrictions in the system, if you did full exhaust and intake spark plug wires and stuff your a/f ratio will change.

more air+ better exhaust flow= more air going through motor on stock fuel pressure. any change will affect it

Thats not going to add enough flow to need a afc. Just reset the fuel maps and you should be good.
 
I have a CAI, Greddy 4-1, stock cat (will change to hi-flow eventually), and a Tsudo N-1 2.5 " cat back. My car runs awesome, doesn't pull timing due to knock and have no CEL. So SAFC is not needed, it would be nice to adjust it myself but I agree that it is not needed.
 
so anybody know my other question aboutt he water pump on the 420a's what all do i need to take off to replace it and when does it usually start to show signs of failure as i dont have any coolant leaking form the weep hole as it wuld be in my garage if i did and i seen nothing, the only thing i notice is when im driving it hard the come to a stop the temp gauge will go up a little but by the time the light turns green it goes back down to normal is this normal or is this a sign of the pump going soon.
 
Eliminat0r said:
so anybody know my other question aboutt he water pump on the 420a's what all do i need to take off to replace it

Is it time for a timing belt change? That is what is involved to get to water pump. Most shops will replace water pump free labor if they are doing timing belt at same time. If it has been 60,000 miles since Tbelt change then do both. If you can wait till Tbelt change time I would do that. Either way it will cost same labor as Tbelt change.
 
the belts were replaced at 60k miles, i really dont want to take it to the dealer ot get the water pmump done is it pretty hard to do for an intemediate mechanic
 
beaty-k_87 said:
the o2 sensor will tell that ecu that your car is running rich if you have that much free flow, therefore the ecu will lean out your A/F. and as im sure most of you know running lean will lead to detonation. i am not saying that putting on an exhaust on your car will make your car blow-up, thats not the case, but elimenating the catalytic converter will.

everything you said was false. having more free flowing air will not make your car run richer, in fact, it will run leaner if anything(slightly if at all). secondly, removing your cat will not make your car blow up, that is rediculous. :rolleyes: do not spread such rediculous misinformation. your ecu will not think your car is running rich if you remove your cat, the rear o2 sensor is to make sure the cat is still working and nothing more, it does not affect performance. the only problem from getting rid of your cat is you will trip a CEL.

DONT spread misinformation, and in this case you just shouldnt have posted.
 
dont need 8 said:
So how many miles are on the car now? I would imagine you are close to 120,000 but maybe not. Anyway, I have read that setting the timing can be tricky but I think quite a few board members do it themselves.

its got 88k on it, so what everyone is saying to do the waterpump i have to remove the timing belt, i guess i should call the dealer and get an estimate
 
dsmrunnah95 said:
Thats not going to add enough flow to need a afc. Just reset the fuel maps and you should be good.



nah i never said safc was needed just that itll change. afc never hurt though


and for this guy sayin the ecu will say its reading rich and itll lean the motor out thats just rediculous. it has to do with air volume in the intake and it happens when the motor sees more air then it wants. with a n/a motor this will never happen as the motor pulls the air in on its own, so if its pullin it in it definately wants it in that case. your describign fuel cut and it happens on turbo cars when the motor sees boost levels it thinks are to much.

we dotn push it in, there fore the motor must want it if it pulls it in
 
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