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1990 Eagle Talon Sleeper

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These two videos cover the install of a Calan Catch Can. Please read the descriptions to these videos to grasp the entire process.





I hope that you enjoy and if you have any questions, feel free to ask. Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.


Robert
 
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After some thought, I decided to do some work to the rear end. My 60' foot times have been horrible up to this point and the main goal is to improve them. I wanted to stiffen things up so I started with this Active Toe Eliminator. Please read the description of the video for more information.



Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 
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Along with the active toe eliminator I wanted to stiffen up the other old worn out parts. The next videos cover that process and the descriptions contain a lot of information.







Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 
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After all of the new parts, It was time to rebuild the drive shaft. I was getting some driveshaft "thump" on hard acceleration and decided the worn out 22 year old Talon could use a few parts on the driveshaft. The following 5 part series covers the entire process in detail and it also covers the sacred Lobro Joint.











Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.


Robert
 
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After all that work it was time to see if it payed off. The "thump" did not totally disappear but it is much more manageable. There is a lot of footage but sadly my best pass was the last one and we only had one camera rolling.



Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 
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I have been tracking down a horrible grinding noise on decel. I started to notice this noise after all the rear subframe work and rebuilding the driveshaft. Now that all of this was new and in good working order, the noise leads me to the rear differential. I started reading the manual and found that there was an easy test to check the total backlash of the diff. When I performed this check I got a .5 inch of backlash. The Service limit is .2 inches, sssooooo I have somehow obtained 2.5 times the amount of acceptable backlash. With this information and an angry tiger in my hatch on decal, I embarked on this next adventure of going through the rear differential. This particular rear is 3bolt LSD out of a 1990 AWD Talon.

When working on the rear, I find it easier to remove the whole subframe. Yes you can remove just the rear and axles, but I am going to drop the whole subframe. Start by draining the rear diff and catching all the fluid to examine for metal chunks. Support the car as high as possible on jack stands. Getting the car high is the key to being able to clear the gas tank once the subframe is down. Remove the tires, e-brake cable, and calipers. Attach the calipers to the shock via a zip tie or other material to prevent brake line damage.

Remove the exhaust and be careful not to scratch your expensive pieces of tubing.

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Note: There are very few bolts that hold the subframe in, so you will want to support the diff via a floor jack and be prepared to balance the assembly with your free hand once it is loose.

Remove the lower shock absorber bolts.

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Remove the 10mm brake line bolt that is easily accessible.

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Do not forget about the 10mm bolt holding the brake line from the top. This bolt is not easily accessible and can be removed later, BUT you must remember this bolt or your subframe will be dangling by your e-brake cable.

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Make mating marks on the drive shaft and the pinion flange. Then remove the four bolts and separate the driveshaft from the pinion flange.

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This is a good time to test your LSD if you have one. Slowly rotate one tire in a forward motion and the tire on the opposite side should move in the same direction. If it does that is one test down, If it does not, then that starts to point a finger at the LSD. This test can also be referenced in the FSM. Also in this picture, you can see where I made the marks to measure the backlash of the rear diff.

The bolt on the right in this next picture should be removed first. There is one of these on each side.

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Now there are only four bolts left holding the subframe on. IF YOU HAVE NOT SUPPORTED THE SUBFRAME YOU NEED TO DO IT NOW. The nut on the left in the picture above holds the front portion of the subframe on. There is also one of these on each side.

The last two nuts are for the differential support.

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Once these are out, your subframe will be free. You will now need to remember about those upper e-brake cable bolts if you did not remove them before. Also, be aware that the sway bar will catch the drive shaft!!!!! The trick is to lower the subframe just enough to clear the mounting bolts, then slide it towards the gas tank. Then, while balancing the subframe with one hand, push the driveshaft towards the transfer case to clear the rear sway bar. After the driveshaft is clear, you just have to wiggle the subframe and pull it out on your rolling jack. This is of course easier said than done.

Now removing the diff is quite simple. Remove the 6 axle nuts (3 on each side for this 3 bolt). To separate the axle from the cup, use a metallic (metal) hammer. TAP on the cup while pulling on the axle and the shock from the hammer will make them separate. Now that you have both axles separated, you can remove the two side bolts holding the diff in. The bolt is already taken out in this picture, but gives a reference of how to find it.

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This access hole is between the lower and upper control arms.

Now remove the two upper bolts holding the diff in.

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Now the differential will be loose. If it is still on the jack, just roll it out. Be sure to support the rest of the subframe when removing the diff.

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Now you will need to separate the axles. It may have been smarter to do this with the diff still bolted up to the subframe, but as you can see I did not. Get your favorite pry bar and place it as shown in the next picture. Apply some pressure to avoid slippage and give the pry bar a good whack with your free hand. This will pop the retaining clip loose so that you can remove the axles.

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Take your axels and store them to avoid damage. Tape the splines as a precautionary measure with masking tape.

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Now the fun begins 

Start by placing the diff inside of your vice. This is not the most conventional way as they do make a stand to hold differentials, but not everyone is going to have that special tool, so the next best thing is a vice with some cardboard spacers to prevent case damage. Also, make sure if you use the vice that you have it locked down nice and tight. Any time you are using a hammer, be sure to check the diff every few whacks. IF YOU DO NOT THE DIFF COULD FALL OUT OF THE VISE!!!!! Ask me how I know 

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Start by removing the 14mm outer case bolts.

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The cover will be sealed on and will not just lift off. Grab your hammer and a punch. There are two holes that go through the diff housing where you can insert the punch to push on the back side of the diff cover. This makes easy work of removing the cover.

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You will end up with something like this. YUM!!!!

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After the cover is off, you will need to start a battery of test. The first one I chose was drive gear run out. The Service Limit for run out on the Ring Gear is .002 of an inch. You will need a magnetic base of some kind, a dial gauge good to at least a .001 and some patience. Clean the surface where you plan to make your measurement to insure accuracy. Setup the dial gauge so that it is as close as possible to 90* of the part you are measuring. On my gear there was a shoulder that was perfect for the task.

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Now rotate the pinion and watch the dial gauge. Make a few rotations if necessary until you see the points of max and min. It does not have to be zeroed out on the gauge; you just need to know how much is between the max and min points. For picture purposes, my gauge was zeroed to show total run out.

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Next up you need to check the backlash. This will test the health of your shims and preloads on the bearings side bearings. Again you will need your dial gauge setup. Since there are many contact points, you will want to make multiple measurements around the gear. I made six and got the same measurement each time.

Clean the surface to be measured, and again set up the gauge and base so that it is as close to 90* of the part as possible. Also you need to make sure that the gauge is preloaded at least one revolution. The service limit for backlash is .004" - .006".

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Now the manual says to lock the pinion in place. I did not find an efficient way to do this. What I did find is that you are measuring backlash. This is free play, so start by placing your thumbs 180* across from each other or 1 thumb 90* from the measurement surface on either side. Since the measurement is of free play, you can apply minimal force with your thumbs back and forth to get the measurement. If you rotate the pinion, you pushed too hard. This may take a few tries to get accustomed too, but you can do it. It would also help if you had a buddy to hold the pinion still while measuring. Again, the gauge does not have to be zero; you just need to know the difference between the extremes. For picture purposes, my gauge was zeroed and the reading is the actual backlash for that tooth.

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The next test will consist of a little painting. This will check your pinion gear height and also double check your bearing preloads. You will need to get some gear marking compound. NAPA sells some Permatex Prussian blue marking compound, but it is a very dark blue making it hard to read. There is also a yellow compound. GM dealerships normally keep some 1 oz tubes on the shelf. The part number is 1052351 and runs about 12 bucks.

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You will need some small paint brushes to apply the compound to the gear teeth. This set was 2 bucks.

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Clean the teeth as much as possible. You may want to rotate it and clean them again. Just make sure that the surface you are painting is clean. Q tips are really nice at this point.

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Use your disposable brush to apply the compound to the clean teeth. A little compound goes a long way. The manual says to paint all the teeth. I choose to paint a quarter or more just to do a test upon disassembly. If I were putting this back together, I would advise painting all the teeth to be certain the contact patch is acceptable.

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After you have painted the gear teeth, you will need to get your contact patch. To do so, you will need to use a pry bar (or something similar) to load the gears. You only want to apply a slight amount of resistance; you do not want to hang off of the pry bar and try to turn the pinion.

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While loading the gears with one hand, turn the pinion until the ring gear makes a full rotation. Now move the pry bar to the opposite side, load the gears, and turn the pinion one complete revolution in the opposite direction.

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You must do a rotation in both directions to get a contact patch on the Convex (drive) side and the Concave (coast) side of the rear diff.

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This contact pattern can tell you if you pinion gear is too high or too low, or if you have excessive or inadequate backlash. You want to see a contact pattern that is mostly centered, but refer to the FSM that you can download HERE ON TUNERS for the explanations of the contact patterns.

Now that those tests are done, we can take some things apart. First you will need to remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold down the bearing caps.

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Once they are loosened, you can remove them just like cam caps. Pull the bolt up about half of its travel and squeeze them together with one hand now take a non metallic hammer and lightly tap each side 2-3 times. Then alternate. Rinse and repeat until the cap is loose and comes off. DO NOT PULL THE BOLT OUT SO FAR THAT YOU ARE PRYING AGAINST THE THREADS OF THE BOLT. This could cause damage to the threads and render the bolt useless.

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Now with the caps removed, look for heat marks, pitting, or anything that look out of the ordinary. The dark black marks on the outer race wiped off with a rag and some elbow grease.

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Now it is time to take out the LSD. The bearings are preloaded with shims, so this will take a little effort. The manual wants you to use two wedges, but this method ended in failure for me. I opted to use a BRASS punch and a non-metallic hammer. Notice the word BRASS!!!! The metal must be soft enough to prevent damage. I place the brass punch in the axle hole at an angle to catch the very beginning of the LSD. I then tapped the brass punch with a non metallic hammer 2-3 times. Then I alternated to the other side. I used this method to walk the LSD out of the Diff. When placing the BRASS punch inside the LSD, do not place it directly onto the splins. Instead catch the outer portion to avoid damage.

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NOTE: Left side parts should be kept separate from right side parts. In other words, the shims are side dependent, and unless you are changing them they must be installed back into the same hole they came out of.

With the LSD loose, lift it out of the diff being careful not to drop the outer races or spacers. The easiest way for me was to stick my finger through the spacer, outer race, and bearing and then lifting it out.

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Clean the races and bearings and again check for pitting, heat marks, and other abnormalities.

At this point, for LSD differentials, you are supposed to check the side gear backlash using a feeler gauge. They ask for a .0012 inch feeler gauge and a .0035 inch feeler gauge. The smallest feeler gauge that can be had locally is a .0015. This would have been fine as you just want to make sure the backlash is within tolerance, but the slot that you stick it in is about half the width of my finger???? This was so small that the feeler gauge would not fit width wise. I am sure there are feelers available that will fit, there was just nothing local on the weekend. It was also considered to just cut my feeler gauges to width, but this could effectively change their thickness making them useless. With that being said, I did not do this test and will not be further discussing it. If you would like to look into this, please refer to the FSM for further guidance.

With the LSD out, remove the 8 14mm bolts holding the ring gear on.

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Tap down lightly on the ring gear in a circular motion using a non-metallic hammer. A few rotations and the gear will come right off.

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With the ring gear off, you will be able to see two machine screws that hold the LSD cover on. Using your vice and some pieces of cardboard, clamp the LSD into the vise with the screws visible.

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I had an impact driver that made easy work of these machine screws. Without this tool the chances of stripping these screws out will increase but it can be accomplished.

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Make mating marks on the cover and LSD case.

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Then grab the cover bearing and pull up. The fluid has created suction and may make this somewhat challenging, but it will budge. Everything past this point should be kept in order!!!

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You will be looking down at the viscous coupler and a thrust washer.

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Remove the thrust washer and then pull the viscous unit out of the case.

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Clean the viscous unit and check the teeth, axle splines, thrust washer surface and sides of the unit for signs of abnormal wear or discoloration.

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Clean the cover and thrust washer while checking them for abnormal wear or discoloration.

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Now you will see the cross shaft, differential pinion gears, and the thrust washers.

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Slide this unit out carefully to keep the components in order.

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Clean and inspect the gears, thrust washers, and cross shaft for abnormal wear or discoloration.

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The last thing to pull out is the side gear. This will also have a thrust washer under it and will more than likely be suctioned to one side or the other. If you have a difficult time removing it, use the access holes on the side of the case to get it started.

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Again, clean and inspect the teeth and thrust surfaces for abnormal wear or discoloration.

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Now you should inspect the wear surfaces inside the case. In particular you should check the 6 thrust washer surfaces, the cross shaft slots, and the viscous unit walls. There is a great diagram in the FSM for these points.

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My work bench now looked something like this.

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The last portion to test and remove is the pinion gear.

To test the pinion gear preload, you need an inch lb torque wrench (needle or dial type, not the clicker or digital type) and a 27mm or 1 1/16 socket.

490380[/ATTACH]"]
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What you want to check is the rotational force. Extensions are discouraged, but I did not have a 1 1/16 socket in a 3/8 drive. Place the socket and torque wrench on the nut. Turn the pinion using the wrench and read how many inch lbs of resistance you have.

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Unfortunately, my inch lb wrench is graduated in 5 inch lbs so I was only able to get a good approximation of 6 in lbs. For specifications, refer to the FSM. I say this because there are specs with the oil seal, without the oil seal, with lube, and without lube.

After this final test is complete, make matting marks on the pinion flange and threads of the pinion gear. Use that same socket and an impact to remove the nut. You also use a pry bar and two bolts to hold the pinion while you removed the nut and washer.

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Simply pull up on the flange to remove it.

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Inspect the splins of the flange and pinion gear shaft.

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Next take a non metallic hammer and press the pinion gear through the case. Once the shaft has broken loose and started to move, tilt the diff and hold the gear with one hand while finishing the job with the other.

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Once the shaft is out, you can remove the spacer shim and spacer from the pinion shaft.

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You will now notice that there is an oil seal holding in a bearing. You will need to pull the oil seal out in order to retrieve the bearing. I found no way possible to preserve the seal so destruction was a must upon removal.

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With the seal removed, retrieve your bearing.

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Clean all of the pinion gear parts and check them for abnormal wear or discoloration. Also check the condition of the pinion gear itself.

There are two things that I did not cover and those are removing the LSD bearings and removing the pinion shaft out races. The LSD bearings will need to be pressed off, and the pinion shaft outer races will need to be pulled out using a slide hammer and a bearing puller both rentable from AutoZone. While the bearing puller there does work, I purchase a miller tool for 12 bucks when re-doing the tranny and it works much better. The part number is Miller 9664. I will get this number when I get home.

Another thing to note is that the pinion nut is not reusable. It is a convex lock nut and should be replaced when being removed.

At this point you should have a good idea of the health of your rear and hopefully find the problem you where looking for. In my case, everything looks fine and I cannot find anything that is making my growling noise. HHMMMMMM...

Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 

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Even though I found nothing wrong with the three bolt that I inspected, I always wanted a four bolt to strengthen up the drive line. Luckily I found one locally with the diff, axels', and cups at a very reasonable price and it was local so no shipping charge.

I went and picked up the four bolt so that I could prep it for install. I checked the tag on the rear diff cover to get some idea of what diff I was purchasing. I also removed the back cover and counted the ring gear teeth and pinion teeth to insure it was a 4 bolt manual rear end. A chart can be found in the FSM for the amount of teeth on each gear.

IMG_2869.jpg


Now that I know I have the right diff, it is time to check its health using the procedures in the four previous post.

I started by popping the axels loose on the four bolt with a pry bar and non-metallic hammer.

IMG_2868.jpg


I then placed the diff in a vice and removed the rear diff cover for further inspection. I started by checking the gear run out. Since I covered the procedures in detail in a earlier post, I did not zero the dial gauge when taking these measurements. All measurements measured out to spec but where mostly on the loose end.

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Next I checked the backlash on 8 different teeth all 45* apart.

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I then painted the teeth to check the contact pattern. It check out to be in spec so I knew the side bearing pre-load and pinion height where all in spec.

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Knowing that all specs where within the factory service limits, it was time to seal up the diff using some ultra black RTV. First we needed to clean both surfaces.

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After scraping off all the old material, I used a shop towel and some WD-40 to insure the surface was clean.

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I then cleaned all the gear marking compound from the teeth of the ring gear.

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I applied some RTV to both sealing surfaces, and I installed the cover back onto the differential. Follow the curing directions on your RTV package for tightening procedures.

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Now it was time to bring the four bolt up to standard so that I could install it on the talon. I started by cleaning the diff and axels with degreaser and a wire wheel. I also masked of the diff for paint.

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The next step was primer and paint. The finished product was a nice shinny black diff.

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After it was painted, I popped the axles out once again. I used my handy seal puller to pull out the old axle seals. I then installed new seals using a little lube and a socket.

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Now the cups need to be installed to the knuckles. I used an impact to remove the 27mm nut holding the old cups on. This nut should be replaced when the new cups are installed. You should also inspect the grease seals at this point.

I used a metallic (metal) hammer to TAP on the back of the cup while pulling from the front. This eventually separated the old cups but it took some time.

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I then added some anti seize to the splins of the cups and hubs before installation.

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I installed the cups using NEW nuts and torque them to spec. To torque them, I installed two lug nuts (to prevent damage) and used a pry bar to hold the hub. You could also torque them after you install the brakes but I like a challenge.

Now all that is left to do is install the diff back into the K member and put it back into the car.

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Do not forget to torque your axels down after you torque the cup nuts.

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This is all there is to installing a diff. Of course you will have to get the K member installed into your car to be finished. You can find how to remove that HERE and reverse those instructions for installation.

Stay tuned and Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread.
!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.
 
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There was one problem with the 4bolt when I installed it. One of the CV boot clamps had slipped off of the dust cover.

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This posses a major threat to the longevity of the axle if the boot allows dirt into the joint. The solution is to replace the boot before any dirt is allowed in. You will need a few special tools for the task but luckily they can all be had locally and are not very expensive.

You will need CV boot band clamp pliers available at NAPA Part Number 3191

CV Boot Grease available at NAPA Part # 686-3000

CV Boot bands available at O'reilly autoparts Part # PRE 3496

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You will also need a pair of cutters, a razor, gloves, and a hammer.

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Start by putting on your gloves and cutting off the old clamp. Be careful not to cut the boot. This should be easy since the band clamp is coming off.

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Now pull the boot back so that you can see the joint inside.

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After the joint is accessible, get out your CV joint grease. This is not your everyday grease and the joint takes a certain high impact grease so buy the right stuff.

Cut a small corner off of the bag so that you can control the grease.

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Now push the boot back and start adding grease. I used a moderate amount because the grease was only a few bucks. Once you are finished work the boot back onto the cup(?) like this.

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Now grab one of your boot band clamps and wrap it around the joint it should look like this.

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Now get your handy dandy pliers out. Insert the loose end into the head of the pliers.

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Now continue feeding the loose end through the slot in the handle and guide the excess towards the bottom to clear the tool.

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Now hold the front handle (Cutter) still and rotate the rear until the band becomes tight around the CV boot. Once you have it tight, rotate the pliers backwards to lock in the seal.

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With these particular pliers you have a cutter, so just rotate the cutter handle to remove the excess.

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Now pull on the rear handle to release the wrapped up banding and you can throw that piece away.

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You will be left with just enough band to fold it over and lock it in with the locking tabs.

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Fold the excess over and use your hammer to clamp the locking tabs down.
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That is all there is to replacing a CV boot. After getting the tools, it literally takes 20 minutes. I already had the car on jack stands, so it may take you a moment longer if you have to do that. It is so simple, there is no reason to let a bad CV boot band clamp ruin a perfectly good axle.

Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread.


Robert
 
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During a tuning session, I started to receive spark blowout at about 24lbs of boost on the HX35. I tried gapping my NGK BPR7ES over and over only to ekk out another lb or so before spark blowout struck again.

I started to do some research and I found that they make a non projected plug.

Here were the differences.

Notice the distance that the electrode sticks out.

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I had a spare cylinder head sitting around, so I installed the two types of plugs and took some measurements.

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I know that this post is not much but I just thought that I would share my findings.

I ended up giving the Non projected plugs a try and I am now running 30-32 PSI on an HX35 at a larger gap than with the projected plugs. I changed nothing else with the tune or any other parts. I do not know if this is the norm or what ill effects it may bring on, but I can say that I have been running these plugs for 1500 miles now and they have performed flawlessly.

If you can spread any other light on this subject, it would be greatly appreciated.

Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread.

Robert
 
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I have been trying to cope the choppy idle of the FIC 1650’s for some time now. It really was not working for me even on E85. The injectors made for a choppy idle and a lean blip during one part of the rev range. I was looking for a solution since I upgraded all of the other fuel components.

I gave Jens a call at FIC and he gave me a great price on some FIC High-Z 2150cc injectors. Since I planned to run E85 these injectors where an outstanding choice so I picked them up. In a few short days, these had arrived.

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Since these are High-Z injectors, you will need to remove the resistor mounted on the firewall. The ECU injector drivers where intended to be used with High-Z injectors and the resistor box allows us to use the factory and more affordable Low-Z injectors. Luckily for us, all we have to do is unplug and remove the box to change injector types.

This will only be removed for the use of High-Z injectors.

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Once this is removed you will have an open plug dangling on your firewall. Again, lucky us FIC sells a block off plug to cap off the connector.

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Just plug it in and Wa-La.

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Now just zip tie it up and it looks like it was meant to be. Also if you switch back to gas for some reason you can just plug it in and use smaller Low-Z injectors.

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Now we need to wire in the injector plugs. This is the same concept that is covered in the video found below.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQHl-ikqI2E[/ame]

Unplug your old injectors.

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Strip off all of the tape and wire loom to expose the wires.

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Now cut the old connectors off. Your new plugs will have ample wire to solder them in.

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Now prep your wires for soldering.

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Some soldering flux goes a long way.

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Slide the shrink tubing onto the new injectors and twist the wires together.

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You will notice in the picture above that I place a piece of cardboard over the soldering area. This is to keep any excess solder from falling onto or inside the motor.

Heat up the wire using your soldering iron and then melt the solder into the wire. The solder should be smooth and look shinny. This will let you know that you have a good solid connection.

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Now slide the shrink tubing over the joints and shrink it with a torch or lighter.

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Now we need to replace the injectors. Remove the three bolts holding the rail in, the fuel feed line, and the fuel return line.

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Now pull out your old rail and remove the old injectors.

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Now lube up the seals with a little oil and install them into the rail.

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You will notice that there are no top injector seals with the 2150's.

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Now install the rail with the new injectors. Be careful with the lower seals and guide them into place before tightening the three rail bolts. Once the seals are in place tighten the three rail bolts, install the feed line, and the return line.

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Now you just need to plug in the injectors and you are ready to go.

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That's all there is to it. You should now have something that looks like this.

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The hardest part of this upgrade is shelling out the money for the injectors. While that was a bit difficult, I have absolutely no regrets in doing so. I would suggest High-Z injectors to anyone that needs a very large injector and has the budget.

Stay tuned and Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread!!!!!!
Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 
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This post is just to make a few small updates that have happened to the car.

I have no AC so ridding with the windows down is a must. The headliner started to sag and fuzz was getting all over the car when I went for a ride. I decided to pull the headliner and redo it to fix this issue.

I went to the local fabric store and picked up some fabric of my choice I also picked up some 3M glue adhesive. I did not take many pictures of this process so sorry for that in advance.

I removed the headliner backboard out of the car and removed all of the old fabric and residue.

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I then fitted the fabric to the backboard and cut it to length. Once it was cut to length I sprayed the backboard with adhesive. Then I laid the fabric into place. I used a rubber squidgy to work out all the bubbles. I then used large binder clips ( The black ones with a good clamping force) to hold the fabric in place while the adhesive dried. The finished product looked something like this.

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I also recovered the rearview mirrors with the same fabric.

I was still chasing a vibration in the rear of the car so I started another project with the headliner complete.

I removed the rear wing off the hatch because it would easily slide around/vibrate. When I removed it, this is what I found.

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The brackets used to bolt the wing down are plastic and they had broken after 22 years. I decided to make my own out of metal. I took a piece of stock and cut squares out the same size as the old brackets.

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I then finished destroying the old brackets to my satisfaction and extracted the nuts.

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I marked the new brackets and drilled a hole just large enough to accept the bolt. Next I needed to tack the nuts in place.

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After the nuts were tacked into place I inserted the bolts so that the threads would not get distorted during the welding. I then finished welding in the nuts. I am by no means a good welder and this was my 2nd or 3rd weld.

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Now I need a way to attach them to the wind. I decided to weld them into place to avoid any bending or headaches. This is the final product and I was quite proud of myself.

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Next I needed to install a Christmas present that I got from my wife. It was a Tial Q BOV and I was so happy. The install was quite simple once I got the flange welded on. Sorry I don't have any pictures at the moment.

Lastly the garage was in serious need of a cleaning. I picked up some concrete cleaner and a brush from Home Depot. You could also do this with a power washer but I am cheap.

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I know that this is not as technical as the other post and it may be disappointing in a way, but I just want update it with everything that I do to the car. I added the cleaning to make a post full of pictures and I had no clue as to how dirty the garage was.

Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 
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As you know, I have been tracking down a rear end noise. I was playing with the tire while it was jacked up one afternoon and I noticed that there was an audible tick whenever you pushed vertically on the tire. I looked further into this and found that the Heim joints on the new upper control arms had some play.

I first heard a noise by shaking the upper portion of the tire on both sides of the car. I cannot reproduce the "tick" by pushing on either side or the bottom of the tire. I got out the stethoscope and found that it was the Heim joint itself. It is between the outer case and the inner piece that would swivel 360* if not bolted down.

So I finally got out the dial gauge and magnetic base to see just how out of wack these Heim joints where. One has about .0025 thou of play while the other has .0035 thou.

I called AFCO and after 3 calls and some digging, I ended up with ONE replacement part. Instead of being upset about receiving half the replacement parts, I took the new joint out of the package and rotated the ball to see that there is no lining (kevlar/teflon) that I can see. Also I put my finger through the hole and violently pulled and pushed on the joint. To my surprise, this joint clicks two.

I have not yet measured the total amount of play in this new joint. I decided to give there tech support a call and they were unable to give me an answer on how much movement is acceptable. I was also told "We do not make these joints, we purchase them from an outside source".

I decided to pull the two upper arms and take a look at the joints themselves. This is what I found after only 100 miles.

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All of these marks would catch your fingernail when dragging it across them. I was fairly upset with these findings and decided to replace the arms with the stock parts. I had some poly bushings that I never installed so I started by pulling the stock arms out of the parts pile and pressing the stock bushings out with my press. You can also burn them out like I did HERE in the third video.

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I then cleaned out all of the grim with a sanding wheel.

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Of course these need to be cleaned and painted, so I started by cleaning the arms with a wire wheel.

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Next I taped up the arms and sprayed on some roll bar and chassis paint.

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With the arms prepped and painted, it was time to install the bushings. I applied some of the lube provided with the bushings to help keep the squeaks to a minimum.

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Next I installed the bushings using my hands.

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With both bushings installed, I reinstalled the stock uppers and went for an alignment. You would be surprised to know that the growling noise changed pitch and was a lot more subtle now. This leads me to believe that stiffening up the rear suspension is now allowing the noise of the gear sets through the frame of the car. I am not 100% on this theory, but maybe one day I will reinstall the stock bushings and see if it goes away. Sadly I burnt out the other bushings and cannot reinstall them to test this theory.

If you have any comments or suggestions feel free to post them below. Otherwise, I hope that you enjoy and Happy Boosting.

Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread.


Robert
 
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I have received a few request to make a video regarding the Clutch Cut Wire on a 1990 DSM. The video below is the result. The work was done during my initial build so this is just to show you the steps that I took and how to test the switch. More information can be found in the description of this video.



If you have any comments or suggestions feel free to post them below. Otherwise, I hope that you enjoy and Happy Boosting.

Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread.


Robert
 
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Great thread! Fantastic DIY guides.
 
Thank you for the complement, it really does mean a lot. :thumb:

I am glad that members and supporting vendors such as yourself can find them useful and interesting. I am only hoping to help others because this site and its members make up a good bit of what I now know. Thanks for taking the time to comment and one day I may need a radiator :D Talk to you soon.

Robert
 
Thank you for the complement, it really does mean a lot. :thumb:

I am glad that members and supporting vendors such as yourself can find them useful and interesting. I am only hoping to help others because this site and its members make up a good bit of what I now know. Thanks for taking the time to comment and one day I may need a radiator :D Talk to you soon.

Robert

I can really appreciate someone that gives back. Plus an in depth Holset rebuild is super useful on numerous forums. If you do need a radiator or anything else we offer, feel free to PM me. :thumb:

Thanks
 
I recently decided to relocate my oil cooler on my 1990 eagle talon. The below video illustrates what I did. Some extra information can be found in the description of the video.



If you have any comments or suggestions feel free to post them below. Otherwise, I hope that you enjoy and Happy Boosting.

Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread.

Robert
 
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Well, It seems that I forgot to add the Holset Oil Drain Video. :ohdamn: :shhh:

I decided to redo the drain on my Holset using AN fittings and this is the result.



If you have any comments or suggestions feel free to post them below. Otherwise, I hope that you enjoy and Happy Boosting.

Please use the "RATE THREAD" button in the right hand corner at the top of this thread.

Robert
 
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