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1990 Eagle Talon Sleeper

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Well I have been busy lately, but I am going to try and get this thread caught up. Here we go.

So now you have your clean parts and you are ready to put things back together.

I had the compressor, turbine, compressor cover, and a few other items media blasted. The CHRA was thoroughly cleaned to insure a spotless assembly.

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Start by getting some thick fluid to use for the assembly. You want it to be thick enough to stick and stay. I used some left over red line gear oil for my assembly.

Flip the CHRA to the compressor side and install the new lower snap ring. Once you have this installed, coat the journal and new bearing with your fluid of choice. Insert the journal bearing and install the new upper snap ring. Flip and repeat to the turbine side.

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Next up is the Turbine shaft. To polish the shaft, you need to wrap tape around the end that the compressor wheel would slide onto. Lock this end into a drill. Get a green scotch bright pad and while applying power to the drill, use the pad to polish out all the discoloration.

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The pictures start to get a little slim here as I must have run out of batteries.

You will need to put the turbine oil seal on. This may be a little tricky, but just take your time to insure that you do not break the seal. Also be sure that you install the heat shield before installing the turbine shaft.

When pushing in the turbine shaft, you will hit a stopping point. A little tap will cause the turbine seal to seat in place. Now flip the CHRA over to start installing the other hardware.

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Next the thrust collar goes into place. The thrust collar is the small round piece in this picture.

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Next you need to install your new thrust bearing from your kit. This is a picture of the old one for reference.

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The new thrust washer can be seen centered at the bottom of this picture.

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Next you will put together a series of parts. You will need to place the oil seal on the oil slinger. Then you will insert the oil slinger and seal into the oil seal plate. Lastly, you will insert the new oil baffle from your rebuild kit. The new oil seal will come from your rebuild kit. The oil seal plate is on the far left of this picture and the oil slinger can be seen as the small round piece.

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After this is assembled, you will need to place the proper o-ring from your rebuild kit into the CHRA. Place a slight amount of lube on the o-ring to help it slip in place. This next picture is of dis-assembly, but it gives you a good reference.

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Now place the oil seal unit into the CHRA with the baffle facing downward. Keep in mind that the baffle will only fit one way, so don’t force it. Once you get the oil seal unit down, insert your new snap ring provided in your rebuild kit. This will seat and seal the o-ring that you put in place.

This picture is for reference.

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Now that you have the all that in place, place the compressor wheel onto the turbine shaft and align your matting marks. You may use the new nut provided in the rebuild kit and start to tighten it down. Remember that the threads for the compressor wheel are left hand (Reverse) threads. Once the bolt is started, you will need to get it snug. Use a box end wrench to hold the turbine wheel while snugging up the nut. Now make sure that your marks are still lined up and torque the nut to 14 ft lbs (6 point nut) 15 ft lbs (12 point nut).

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You will now need to install your compressor cover. If you have not drilled and tapped it for a 1/8 inch NPT boost source, now is a great time to do that to your compressor cover. The compressor cover on Holset HX series turbo’s is a known boost leak. Once you get your compressor cover clocked to fit your application, be sure to add a bead of RTV to seal the compressor cover and prevent boost leaks. Do not do this before you get the clocking right. It will be difficult to separate the compressor cover after the RTV dries. Good luck with the next task of installing the massive snap ring. Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves as this ring retains a lot of force. I cannot remember for the life of me how I got mine installed, but it took a lot of time and a ton of patience.

At this point you will need to choose and install your choice of turbine housing.

Once this is complete, you have a rebuilt Holset. The Holset service manuals can be found in the link below, and I encourage you to download the FREE manual in you plan to tackle this job.

www.cummins.com/turbos - Service Repair Manuals

Hope this helps, and please use the RATE button. All comments and/or suggestions are welcome.
 
Well, somewhere along the line I fitted the VR Speed FMIC to the talon. You will notice that this was actually done before I removed the original motor, but the tranny is out. The install is fairly simple and with the available information on this site, you should have no trouble doing the install yourself. You do have to remove the Power steering cooler and the bumper support. It is also recommended to relocate the Oil cooler (90 style) because you will be block air flow with this installation.

First you will pay your monies, and you will receive the package from VR Speed. It will include the core, piping and necessary hardware. My order was a little off as the 90* coupler for the turbo was meant for a lot smaller discharge. This was taken care of and a new coupler was sent out to me.

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If you want to run an AIT, now is a good time to get that welded on. I used a permanent marker to mark the elbow and had a shop do the welding of my AIT.

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Now that you have your core out, it is time to mock it up. The first thing you will notice is that there is no place for the core’s cold and hot side pipes to go. To fix this, grab a cut off tool and enlarge the holes to the left and right of the radiator. Make the holes big enough to have plenty of clearance but be mindful of your AC lines. I would hate to rub a whole in a coupler because there was too little clearance or get a face full of Freon because you hit an AC line.

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You will notice that these are a little close. You can somewhat control this by drilling the holes so that either side is not rubbing. As you can see, I also had to slightly trim the radiator to make the pipes fit to my liking. Trimming the radiator is a risky task and you should make this call on your own depending on your application. . Don’t forget to clean up your cutouts so that there are no sharp edges.

At this point you may notice that the D/S AC line is in the way. Gently bend the AC line so that you can squeeze the pipe past the line. You also do not want this to rub. In my case, I removed the AC so I do not know how this will turn out.

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If you notice in the first picture posted, there are no holes for your mounting bolts. You will need to drill some holes to fit the studs of the bumper support. Now that your pipes fit through the holes, mark where you will need to drill your mounting holes by holding the core in position against the bolts. Once you have them drilled, mount your core using the stock nuts to insure a good fitment.

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Now you can mount your bumper and trim it to fit. Once the trimming is completed, the hard part is over. Since I have no motor in the car at this point, the finishing touches of the FMIC install will be in the engine install post.

Please use the RATE THREAD button. Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism are welcome.

Robert
 
Oil Feed / drain

Now the turbo needed to be mocked up so that the oil drain and feed could be mocked up. I slapped the turbo on with a set of FFWD turbo bolts and what do you know, it doesn’t fit.

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I found the problem!!!

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It was an easy fix, I took the turbo water pipe off and cut the extended nipple flush with the pipe. I then had the coolant opening welded shut. I file down the weld to an acceptable angle that made for some great clearance.

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With the Turbo bolted up, I realized that the front mount needed some trimming. I rough cut the mount until it cleared everything and then I made sure to make the surface silky smooth by sanding.

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Now that the turbo is in good shape and mocked up, it was time to make sure it will live for a long time. I planned to run a -4an unrestricted feed from the filter housing with an inline oil pressure gauge. If the pressure was too high, I would have added a restrictor. Better to have too much oil during the first startup than restrict too much and starve the turbo.

I started by picking up an assortment of -12an fittings from a local speed shop. I had the luxury to do this because they are local. If you have to purchase the fittings off line, trial and error will not be your best choice as these fittings get quite expensive.

I ordered an s400 2 bolt adapter from turbo Dave’s to seamlessly connect the ¾ to -12an fitting to the drain of the CHRA.

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The CHRA side is ready to go, but what about the pan????

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Go pick up a -12an or equivalent size steel fitting and have it welded into your pan. WA LA.

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Now SIMPLY mock up the fittings…… Right? WRONG!!! As you will see in the next three pictures, there is no way that you will have enough room to fit the -12an fittings without clocking the housing to a ridiculous angle that would inhibit the oil flow and cause issues with the turbo.

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I tried using straight fittings, 45* fittings and a 90* fitting, but the end result was a drain that was far from optimal. It would have clock the housing or been to off centered to function.

After I came to this realization, I kept the s400 adapter, the ¾ to 12an fitting that screwed into it, and of course the fitting in the oil pan. I took a hanger and made the shape of something that would work. I then measured the OD of the AN fittings. I went down to the parts store and rummaged around in the back until I found a rubber hose that would work. With a little trimming, it fit like is was made for a holset swap.

This is not the ideal setup because the rubber hose will deteriorate over time. The hot oil that is always moving over the rubber just speeds up the process. Also you will see in the picture that the hose is slightly touching the mount. I have since fixed this but have no picture. This should be a temporary fix!!!

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A solution for the drain is to use pushlock -12 fittings. Since these have 3 barbs, you can cut one barb off to make room for the hose. I am not sure how well this works or lines up as I have not tried it, but I have seen others do this with success.

The feed is pretty simple. I measured from the oil filter housing feed port (seen in the next pic) to the top of the turbo with a piece of string. Once I had it the way I imagined, I cut the string and took it to the speed shop. There a -4an hose was constructed to my needs.

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The OFH thread is a weird thread!!!! I have totally forgotten what it is (the answer is in the Holset oil feed thread which is where all my information came from). The inlet to the CHRA is also weird (something like 12.5mm x 1 but don’t quote me). With these fittings in place, It is as easy as screwing the fittings on.

After everything was bolted down in the car, I would go back and mark where I want to add the tee for the oil pressure gauge. With it marked, I went to the speed shop and let them work their magic. When I got back and installed the line this is what I ended up with.

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The overall experience of installation was not that bad. After driving it for the first time, you will forget about all the headaches you may encounter. I was seeing an oil pressure of 65psi cold start, 12-14 psi ideling, and 70-72psi at 8500. With this kind of oil pressure, no restrictor was added to the feed line.

Stay tuned and please use the RATE THREAD button!!!!! Any and all suggestions/comments/ constructive criticism are welcome.
 
You should turn you oil feed lines around, it kinda looks tacky where the oil pressure sensor currently stays. Just a thought though... on another note, GREAT STUFF!
 
Now that you mention it, the sending unit might have been better placed on the lower subfram. :confused: This would mean I need a new line, because one side is a straight fitting and the other is a 90* fitting. Also the sending unit connections are not waterproof, so protecting them from water is another issue. :hmm: Thanks for the input.

Robert
 
With the motor together, the turbo mocked up and a rebuilt tranny, It is time to put the firewall back together and reinstall the subframe.

I started by acquiring all the parts needed. This included tie rod ends, ball joints, tie rod boots, poly bushings, etc.

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With all the parts, I disassembled the power steering rack while it was out of the car. Be sure to mark the tie rods so that you can assemble the rack with a decent alignment. You will need an alignment after you replace these parts and the bushings. I cleaned the rack until I was satisfied with the outcome. Then I started putting on the new parts.

Right side tie rod, tie rod end, and tie rod boot installed.

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Left side tie rod, tie rod end and tie rod boot installed.

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The rack assembled with new parts.

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With the Rack completed, I started on the subframe. The subframe was cleaned and painted with roll bar and chassis paint. Poly bushings where installed into the subframe and it was put into the car. This was a difficult one person task and would have been much easier if I had a second set of hands. This next picture shows the firewall reassembled and the subframe installed.

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With the subframe in and torque down, I started on the lower control arms. These were cleaned and painted and the old ball joints where removed using a hammer. This method was used because I planned to replace the ball joints. The lower control arms got poly bushings and where installed onto the subframe.

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The moog ball joints where then pressed into place and the cir-clip was installed.

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After you install the cir-clip, you must install the dust boot. These are always a pain. One thing that needs to be noted is that there is a slot for excess grease to escape. This slit must face away from the knuckle/ brake assembly for safety reasons.

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The power steering rack was installed into the subframe. It was 2 brackets, two hoses, and the steering linkage. Installing the steering linkage is a little trick and before you tighten the bolt, the knuckles should be installed to visually check the straightness of the wheels when the steering wheel is held straight.

Lastly the sway bar got poly bushing and was installed. This can be a little tricky lining up the bolts with the new and improved bushings. I used my floor jack and a ½ inch extension to press the bracket. This made easy work of using the stock bolts to reinstall the sway bar.

As you can tell, these next few post will contain minimal pictures. I do not know why I stopped taking a lot of pictures but I did. Bear with me and the post will get better. As always, Please use the Rate Thread button and all comments, suggestions, and constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 
The last thing that I did was install the subframe, lower control arms, and lower ball joints in preparation of installing the motor. I installed the hubs back onto the car to find this.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWqfY_Eobdc]Bad Wheel Bearings 1990 Talon - YouTube[/ame]

I ordered new OEM bearings, new inner seals, and new outer seals from Mitsparts.com. While I was awaiting the parts I tore down the hubs.

I started while they were still mounted to the car. I used a slide hammer and a hub attachment (both rentable) to pull the hubs out of the knuckles.

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With a few swift pulls the hubs will come out with the inner race still attached.

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Some people use a cut off wheel to cut a gouge in the inner race and then use a hammer and a chisel to create a hairline crack releasing the tension and allowing you to remove it. I chose to take another (safer) route.

I removed the outer seal by prying with a screwdriver.

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Once this was removed, I used a two jaw puller and a socket to pull the inner race off. This makes it very unlikely that you will cut into the smooth metal surface. I also used an impact to activate the two jaw puller but a ratchet would suffice.

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Now you need to press out the inner race and bearings. There is a Snap ring on the inner part of the knuckle that retains these pieces. It is a pain to get out but some big channel locks or the proper snap ring pliers will make easy work of it. I pressed these pieces out by holding the knuckle in a vice and using the same 2 jaw puller and socket combination. The key is to leave the bearing portion inside the knuckle. Then get a large socket (mine is a 1 1/16 impact socket) to fit the bearing and press it out.

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Now that the parts where disassembled, I sent the Knuckles, hubs, and dust shields to be media blasted. Upon their return I also had the new parts. To install the parts, I used a press and the old races. I went down to the local tranny shop and a guy helped me press in both bearings, install both seals and install that pain in the butt clip. Luckily he had the snap ring pliers and got it on the first or second try. Since all this was done away from the garage, I have no pics to show you. I did however take one picture while bolting one assembly back up.

The axle nuts should always be torqued while the tires are off the ground. Also you may notice a motor in the background and an Axle in the hub already :hmm: So lets see if you can guess what the next entry will be.

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Now I have nice and tight wheel bearings with shiny new dust shields to go along with my new front end. As always, Please use the Rate Thread button and all comments, suggestions, and constructive criticism is welcome.

Robert
 
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So a lot has happened. I now have a complete motor and a complete tranny along with a freshly painted front end, new front end components, mocked up turbo, and an empty engine bay.

I started by sitting on the floor admiring my torque wrench :) knowing that it was only a matter of time. You will notice that the valve cover has been taken off. This is to preserve the fresh paint from the chains on the lift.

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The rear main seal can be kind of tricky/confusing, so to clear that up here are a few pictures. You will have these three pieces that will need to be assembled.

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For referencing the parts we will say the case is the one on the left, the seal retainer is on the right and the seal is in the middle. This is referring to the picture above.

The seal gets inserted into the case with the spring facing the inside of the motor. Add a little bit of lube to aid in pressing the seal in. I was able to do this with my thumbs and did not have to use any special tools. It should look like this.

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Next the retaining ring needs to be installed. It should be installed with the tabs facing away from the seal. The hole in the retaining ring should be facing the bottom. When this is done, the tabs will line up with certain portions of the case. It should look like this.

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After you get done looking at your torque wrench and figuring out what to do with it, you need to install the rear main assembly onto the block with a new gasket. Add a little bit of lube and insert.

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Next you need to install your flywheel. I choose the ACT streetlite flywheel for my application. You should clean the surface whether you have a new or used flywheel. You should also check the step height to insure that it is set where you desire. Mine was checked out at .610. When installing the flywheel you should use NEW bolts. These bolts are Torque To Yield and should only be used once. I had read about some issues with the ARP’s so I ordered some new OEM bolts. These new bolts should also get a dab of red loctite. Have a buddy hold the crank still using the crank bolt while you torque the new flywheel bolts to their specified torque.

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With the flywheel clean and installed you need to install your clutch disk and pressure plate. I choose to use a ACT 2900 with a Southbend TZ/FE disk.

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Be sure to line up the clutch disk using the clutch alignment tool and if you had your assembly balanced you will need to line your pressure plate up correctly as well. After the bolts are tightened your alignment tool should slide in and out with very very minimal force. After this is completed add a small amount of grease to the splins of the clutch disc to prevent seizure later on.

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NOTE : The pressure plate bolts are also Torque to Yield bolts and should be replaced. They should be tightened in a cress-cross pattern about a half turn at a time. This will insure that you do not bend the pressure plate in any way.

This next portion is going to seem so much easier than it really is. Aligning the bolt holes with all poly mounts is a difficult task and can be very frustrating.

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Once the motor was in and all of the motor mounts where torque, I hooked up and installed the things that I could to make the engine complete. I could not resist a few mock up shots before going any further.

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I decided to hook up everything that I possibly could at this point and called it a night. After fighting with the motor mounts for countless hours and now having a motor that was in reach of starting, I knew that I would sleep well.

As always, Please use the Rate Thread button and all comments, suggestions, and constructive criticism is welcome.
 
Awesome update! Be sure to not cut any corners near the end that would ruin this amazing build.
 
To be honest, the car has been running for about a year. :shhh: I was making entries in the older style blog, but it never seemed to work out. I am now trying to get this blog caught up to its current state. I am going through the thousands of pictures and sharing everything that I can remember. I did seem to stop taking so many pictures but I will continue to share as much as I can possibly remember.

Thanks for the kind words about the build!!!!

Robert
 
nice build. Looks like the roll pins in the tranny are installed wrong, the split should be up or down.
 
nice build. Looks like the roll pins in the tranny are installed wrong, the split should be up or down.

Thank you for taking the time to look through the build. I really do appreciate your comment, but I do not see how the direction of the roll pin split section plays a critical roll??? :confused:

Up, down, left, or right, the gap in the roll pin just allows clearance so that you can slightly compress and install the roll pin. Maybe I am missing something here that you can further explain??? I am not saying that you are wrong in any way shape or form, just asking for some type of explanation so that I and others can learn something from this. :D

Thanks again,
Robert
 
When the gap on the pin is left or right it can collapse from the force of the shift fork pressing against it, when the gap is up or down the force is not acting against the gap of the pin. I've never tried to install the pin with the gap left or right so i can't say what the chance of it actually being a problem are but its just good practice to put the gap vertical, maybe jack could give his opinion, I'm sure he's seen every possible failure.
 
That is a very good point!!!:hmm: I would think that the shift fork (being the weaker material) would crack before the roll pin would collapse but the possibility could all be avoided by following your advice. :D I will be altering that entry with your comment so that others will be well informed.

Thank you for pointing this out and making this blog more informative.

Robert

EDIT : Just to confirm, Tim at TMZ said that the pin can walk out if you do not install them at 6 or 12 O'clock. So if you decide to tear into a tranny keep this in mind. Thanks again for catching this and pointing it out.
 
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So I walk back into the garage felling like a champ. I am so close to having this thing started its nerve racking. I have spent months getting to this point but I still had a few things left to tie up.

I have all these new parts but the slave and master cylinders are all worn out. Nothing is wrong with them at this point and they have not been known to leak. I wanted the piece of mind without the price tag of new parts. My solution was to order rebuild kits for these parts. The only parts store that carried a kit was Oreilly’s auto parts.

Forgive me, but this is one of the sections that I did not take many pictures.

You start out with your cylinders by tearing them down and cleaning them out. The master has a clip under the rubber boot that allows the section to extract. The slave is very easy to tear down once you remove the boot.

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Inspect the cylinders to make sure that there are no scratches, gouges, or wear marks and clean the cylinders to your desire.

Once this is complete you just need to reassemble the cylinders in the reverse order.

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Now that you have hydraulic cylinders that are in like new condition, you will need to install them. The master cylinder will bolt right up and you will need to attach a few lines and the adjustment rod to pedal. The clevis pin can be a pain, just take your time and it will all line up. Now install the slave…… oh but where is the tranny.

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There it is!!! Let me get this thing installed. Slap on your starter plate and make sure your dowle pins are in and in good shape. I started by getting the tranny under the car and in position to be picked up.

This next step may be frowned upon heavily, and I would love to hear your thoughts!!! There is a bracket on the tranny where your shifter cable linkage hooks up. I made sure it was torque correctly and then attached a chain with a long bolt through the threaded hole. I then attached the chain to the cherry picker and lifted the tranny.

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Installing the tranny took a total of 10 minutes and that includes getting it under the car and hooked up. I am saying that this made aligning the tranny seamless and painless. I did not experience any ill effects from this method.

I installed a few of the tranny bolts to support most of the weight and then install the tranny mount while the chain was hooked up.

Don’t forget the grounding strap on the left bolt. :aha:

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With the mount installed and torque to spec you can torque the tranny mounting bolts to spec as well. Make sure to get the 3 bolts above and do not forget the bolt in the back.

In the picture below, look in the upper right corner. You will see a portion of the block sticking out with a bolt hole. This is where the “hidden bolt goes. This bolt is very important in maintaining proper alignment so do not forget it.

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At this point you can also install the subframe portion that supports the tranny.
Sorry I don't have a picture of this. WTF

Now you need to install the accessories to the Tranny.

We will start with the master to slave hose bracket that gets bolted to the tranny.

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Then the slave that you rebuilt

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The starter will be needed shortly so install in and its wires.

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Reverse light switch

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Shifter cables which will need adjusting.

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Be careful with the Speed sensor because the threads can be stripped very easily.

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Lastly crawl under the car and install the inspection cover. You can see that hidden bolt in this picture.

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That gets the front wheels some power, now let’s install the transfer. I replaced the tail seal and then inserted the drive shaft. I then added grease to the splines of the input shaft and the transfer coupler. I slid the transfer on and taped it into place with a dead blow hammer. I then installed the different length bolts into the transfer and torque it to spec.

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Now you need to wrap up the engine bay by installing loose ends like the oil cooler lines and anything else that is still loose. Use new crush washers on the oil cooler lines if you have an external unit.

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We still have a few things like the turbo and axles, but it looks like we are one entry from starting this thing.

As always, Please use the Rate Thread button and all comments, suggestions, and constructive criticism is welcome.
 
What am I going to do with this!!!!

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Well after all this work, it is time to bolt on the Holset that I mocked up. I used a set of turbo bolts from FFWD because I read some horrible reviews on the ARP bolts here too. I also used some nickel antiseize to keep the bolts from seizing into the turbine housing. The Compressor cover v-band clamp was ground down to accept the 3in coupler. The O2 housing was installed with an EVO 3 gasket and a set of the FFWD bolts. Other small things where installed like the bov, and I had an engine bay that looked like this.

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Now I need a way to cool this thing down. That is kind of hard to do without a radiator and radiator hoses. I reused the stock radiator and ordered a 13 piece kit that included all the coolant hoses on the car from Import Evolution. Most of the hoses fit very nicely, but I had a small issue with the radiator hoses.

The upper radiator hose was much longer than the stock hose, but the bends where in the same location.

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The lower radiator hose is also elongated but with some of the angles being slightly different. This made fitment a little challenging but I knew I could get there.

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This was fixed by using the old hose as a template and trimming the new ones to size with a razor blade. This was the final product.

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Now that I had coolant, I needed a way to provide the front wheels with power.

I picked up a set of Raxles for a good price and here they are.

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I started with the passenger side since only the axle needed to be installed. This short video will explain the process. Notice that I say you will set the car down. This is after you torque the axel nut.

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I then ran into an issue when bolting up the driver’s side intermediate axle. This next clip explains the issue and how I fixed it.

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Once this issue was fixed, the driver’s side was put together just like the passenger side.

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I torque the axel bolts while the wife held the brakes after installing the caliper and pads.

At this point I zip tied the MAP sensor to the throttle body spacer bracket, wrapped the wire loom for the oil sending unit in electrical tape, and placed the stock coolant overflow in the fender with bungee straps as a temporary fix.

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I was ready to start the car. I put redline in all the driveline parts and Brad Penn SAE 30 brake in oil in the motor. I pulled the dip stick to check the oil and NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

If you remember correctly I had a lot of parts media blasted. I pulled the dipstick out to check the oil and media fell down the tube. I could see the media in the tube and I knew that this fine gritty stuff would be just the culprit to ruin my bearings.

Knowing this, I had to drain 5 quarts of Brad Penn oil that had zero miles and pull the oil pan for a cleaning. After a few hours I had it clean.

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After I was satisfied, I cleaned the dipstick tube. I then reinstalled the oil pan and filled it up with some more brake in oil. With this major setback out of the way I could only imagine what it was going to sound like.

As always, Please use the Rate Thread button and all comments, suggestions, and constructive criticism is welcome.
 
Well, I got the oil pan back on and added some more Brad Penn SAE 30 brake in oil.

I then checked all of the lifters and re-torque the head bolts for the last time to make sure that none of the lifters had pumped up!!! I have a video illustrating this, but for some reason photo bucket will not upload it. Sorry.

After knowing that the top end was good to go, I cleaned the valve cover to my satisfaction and installed the valve cover gaskets using RTV at all of the bends and around the bolt holes.

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I tied up all the loose ends in the engine bay and I went through this article

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/395564-how-tune-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-no-maf.html

I found that the seals in the throttle body where leaking out a good amount of boost pressure, so that would have to be fixed after I heard this thing run. My PCV was also leaking so I would have to come up with a solution for that. After completing all of these steps it was time to try and start her.

I pulled the MPI relay and Spark Plugs and turned the motor over 2-3 times for about 10 seconds until I seen Oil Pressure.

This was the first attempt. Right before I cut it off, it felt like the car was fighting itself.

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I then gave it another shot to try and figure out the problem. You will hear on the first revolution that the engine is definitely fighting itself, but it cranks so I let it run for a minute to top off coolant.

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This last clip is turning the car over after confirming that something is definitely wrong. It was basically for documentation, so here you go. You will see that it is fighting itself because the timing belt can be seen stopping and starting.

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At this point I was of course upset, but happy at the same time. I had no detrimental leaks, I had great oil pressure, and the car ran. I went inside and posted a thread on link.

ECMTuning User Support Forums

I had the firing order mixed up on the coil pack!!!!!! The fix was so simple I wanted to smack myself. I changed the firing order and she purred like a kitten.

Since I knew that I had two leaks to fix, I got on it.

For the PCV valve, I purchased some 1 way Check valves from U.S. Plastics. You can find them in this article.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

Once I got the check valves, I installed it between the PCV and the intake manifold only allowing pressure to exit the valve cover. This fixed that boost leak and allowed me to move on to the throttle body.

I then used this thread to rebuild my Throttle body.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/243135-1990-throttle-body-seal-replacement.html

I pulled the throttle body back off of the car and cleaned the matting surface to perfection.

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I then marked the throttle plate, TPS, and return spring.

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Be very careful when installing this spring. It has some force behind it and WILL impel your finger. Ask me how I know!!!

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I then removed these two screws with an impact screw driver.

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I disassembled the throttle body, removed the return spring and then removed the old worn out seals. I polished the shaft with a scotch bright pad just like in the Turbo rebuild. The new Rawhide seals can be a pain to install but just make sure you get them started straight. Now reinstall everything so that it lines up with your marks. I used some red loctite on the throttle plate screws on top of penning the ends. This was just extra precaution so the motor did not eat them.

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Clean both of your mating surfaces to satisfaction.

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Then install new gaskets, hook up your coolant hoses, and install.

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This should fix both of my boost leaks and allow me to start breaking this thing in. :thumb:

As always, Please use the Rate Thread button and all comments, suggestions, and constructive criticism is welcome.
 
Now that the car runs and is Boost leak free, I needed to install the exhaust and start breaking it in.

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It's only a little rich :nono: I fixed this of course so that the fuel would not wash out my cylinder walls.

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I also got the rims painted and put on with the new rotors.

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If they only knew what was lurking underneath!!!!! Oh Yea!!!!

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A few with the puppy.

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There is a lot of debate on how to break in your motor. I chose to drive the car normal for about 100 miles or so. I then started tuning the car at about 18lbs. The car was never launched because I needed to break in the tranny, but 3rd gear pulls where accomplished to get everything else dialed in.

I was having a blast and the car was feeling stronger than ever, but I started to encounter an overheating issue shortly after the tuning adventure began. I did a lot of reading and decided to make some ducting to the radiator. I used some plastic made by allstar and some Racers tap to hold it up. I first made pieces to fit out of cardboard and then cut the plastic to the shape of the outline. This is what I ended up with hoping for some great results.

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From my research, I had a great feeling about this. I left the bumper off and gave it a test drive. The result was a car that overheated faster and overheated while ridding down the interstate due to a reduction in airflow. Once I pulled over at a gas station, I ripped all the ducting out and drove back hope very disappointed. I was able to make it home without overheating which was another sign that the ducting was doing more harm than good in my case.

I went back to the drawing board and decided to pressure test the system. This is what I ended up with. This is a How To Video that I posted with the results at the end.

[ame=[MEDIA=youtube]Vjy5fKUgNwg[/MEDIA] System Check - YouTube[/ame]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vjy5fKUgNwg

I completely bleed the system and what do you know, the car runs right at operating temps :thumb:

Please use the "Rate Thread" button so that I will know how helpful my posts are and how I may improve them. Any thoughts or ideas on how to improve this build thread or the build itself is greatly appreciated.

Robert
 
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At this point, I started shooting video. You will see a lot more video responses to this blog so I hope you enjoy them.

Where you doing a boost leak test and noticed your 1G BOV opening prematurely??? There are a few different ways to fix this. You can crush the BOV, Replace the BOV, or Dodge Mod the BOV.

Crushing the BOV will hold more boost, but the fast reaction time that eliminates flutter is lost when the spring is crushed. This is because the spring is compressed and the amount of vacuum needed to pull the valve open is greater than it was before. This takes longer to open the valve and in low boost situations may not allow the BOV to open at all. This is very Bad!!!!

The next choice is to replace it. This can be a very expensive choice in many cases especially when quality is first at hand. Buying a cheap knockoff BOV can be very counter productive in many cases causing more leaks, squeaks and headaches.

The Third choice is to Dodge Mod the BOV. This is by far the best MODIFICATION choice if you are using ECMlink. Let me explain...... This modification moves the boost source that goes to the bottom of the diaphragm out of the boost pipe and into the engine bay as a nipple. This means that a motor at 30 lbs of boost would see 30lbs on top of the diaphragm, 0lbs on the bottom of the diaphragm, and 30lbs pushing on the face of the valve. Taking the extra pressure off of the diaphragm allows the BOV to stay closed during high boost operation.

Let me explain the fast acting feature. This is a feature that eliminates flutter at all boost levels. It is accomplished because (in the stock version BOV) a car pushing 15lbs of boost would have 15lbs on the face of the valve, the bottom of the diaphragm and the top of the diaphragm. When you let off the gas, there will still be 15lbs pushing on the face of the valve AND the bottom of the diaphragm with a vacuum from the intake to pull on the top and open the BOV almost instantly to eliminate the flutter. Without the boost on the bottom of the diaphragm you would loose this fast acting feature BUT with the boost always on the bottom of the diaphragm your BOV would open prematurely. To fix this you must regulate the boost pressure source to the bottom port.

This feature can be kept using the Dodge Mod BOV while holding insane amounts of boost, BUT you will need a way to control when boost goes to the new port you are creating. When your at wide open throttle, you do not want any boost on the bottom port so that the BOV will stay shut and hold your insane amounts of boost. As soon as you slightly let off the gas, you want boost to rush to the bottom port to help open the valve instantly and eliminate flutter.

Leaving the new port open to the atmosphere will make you loose the fast reaction and hooking it up to a uncontrolled boost source is just like you never did the mod. Luckily our friends at ECMtuning have a solution. They make it where you can control the stock FPS (something many of us have deleted and no longer use anyway) based on throttle position. Hooking the stock sensor into the stock harness and you are ready to go. The FPS gets hooked into a boost ONLY source. The sensor is a three port sensor so when it is open boost goes to the bottom of the diaphragm and when it's closed the boost is bled off out of an open port to the atmosphere. This link contains a few pictures to help you better understand.

usenitrouscontrolsfordejontoolbovmod [ECMTuning - wiki]

Overall you can create a BOV that will hold massive amounts of boost while still maintaining the fast reaction feature at a very minimal cost. This is a win win in many cases and will allow you to run higher boost without that notorious boost leak.

Robert

[ame]

Please use the "Rate Thread" button so that I will know how helpful my posts are and how I may improve them. Any thoughts or ideas on how to improve this build thread or the build itself is greatly appreciated.
 
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After dodge modding the BOV, I turned up the boost. This eventually lead to some knock and I had three options......

1. Run Low timing or lower boost to eliminate the knock :notgood:

2. Change the DSM flanged hot side and exhaust manifold for a T3 setup. :ohdamn:

3. Change fuel type and start running E85 :D

I chose number three and decided to run E85. This worked out great until I hit the mid 20's on boost and upper 90's lower 100's on injector duty cycle. There was only one thing to do at this point and that was upgrade the entire fuel system. The four videos below are the steps I took to corn feed my talon.









Hope you enjoyed it and as always, please Rate this thread to help others find it.

Robert
 
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At this time, I was also fitting some idle issues and I tried to troubleshoot everything that I could. I ended up blocking off the FIAV and it did solve this particular issue. Here are the steps that I took.



The description of the video has some more information on the subject. I am trying my best to get this blog up to date but it seems like the more I edit and make movies the more work I do :hmm: Some day we will get there.

Robert
 
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