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Blowing off intercooler pipes [Merged 7-8] ic intake

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RaysTsi

20+ Year Contributor
323
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Nov 4, 2002
Charlotte, North Carolina
The stock lower intercooler pipe pops off my Big T28 Killer when it starts to boost. Why? Do I need a hard pipe? Well i'm leaking coolant and have to go tighten this bolt down. Please give some advice Im stumped.
 
but I would be worried about the effect that heat will have on the duct tape's adhesive.

This is the point I was going to make. It will turn into grease. ;)

Scuffing the pipes up with 80 grit will do wonders for getting couplers to stick to them, and of course t-bolt clamps are mandatory on these cars at any boost level for peace of mind. T-bolt clamps and roughed up pipes have held to over 40 psi on the RWD.
 
Well i am not about to remove all the piping from the car and the only reason that i used duct tape is because the distance from one pipe to another is very small plus why would HAISPRAY be soo much better than duct tape which has proven to hold togethere about everything. I duct taped my elbow coupler at the track when it blew and believe it or not the duct tape held find at 21psi.
 
Because duct tape will tear apart and enter your engine. Engines don't like burning SOLIDS. Hairspray is a hydrocarbon, and burns more easily, plus it's very tacky when it dries, but a lubricant when it's wet.

by all means, ghetto rig everything about your car, hold you fuel line on with zip ties, secure your valve cover with JBWeld. I don't care, not my car, but when the day comes that you cry because of your stupid mistake, don't bother posting about it because we are giving you sound advice, you are just being stubborn and cheap.
 
I use that copper gasket spray under my couplers and I only use tbolt clamps and I dont have any boost leaks in the intercooler pipings. Hell that copper gasket spray helps my external waste gate stay together too as Im not running any gaskets on the 38mm w.g. were it attached to the o2 housing and no exhaust leaks!~
 
Because duct tape will tear apart and enter your engine. Engines don't like burning SOLIDS. Hairspray is a hydrocarbon, and burns more easily, plus it's very tacky when it dries, but a lubricant when it's wet.

by all means, ghetto rig everything about your car, hold you fuel line on with zip ties, secure your valve cover with JBWeld. I don't care, not my car, but when the day comes that you cry because of your stupid mistake, don't bother posting about it because we are giving you sound advice, you are just being stubborn and cheap.

First of all i don't need advices from a moron like you and if you want to be supportive you can if not thats fine too, but you dont have to tell me if i am cheap or stubborn i was just stating a fact about the damn duct tape thats all. Obviously different people try different things.
 
Warning given for flaming. If only I could give one for using "advices" while calling someone a "moron".

He gave you suggestions, reasons why this is a bad idea, and you chose to ignore it.

Watch yourself.
 
My turbo set up has a j pipe that comes straight down on the drivers side of the engine bay to my short route piping and about 1 out of 5 times i hit the boost it blows off. My j pipe was custom made and it took alot of manhandling and grinding on my part to finally get it on there without any leaks. Is there any kind of like gupe i can get to stick on their to give it a little friction so i dont have to worry about it slippin? I know i could take it off and get a rim welded on it, but i Kid you not its like a half day job to get this thing on their with no leaks. Any ideas? O yea and i have tried both kinds of clamps.
 
No bead? That's no good. Try hairspray, the strong kind, not the fruity stuff and clamp it down as hard as you can. That might:idontknow: work.
 
No bead? That's no good. Try hairspray, the strong kind, not the fruity stuff and clamp it down as hard as you can. That might:idontknow: work.

Totally agree, you definitely want a bead, and try using hairspray. Your using a T bolt clamp right?
 
Use a socket to tighten the clamp insted of just a flat head screw driver you can usually get it tighter that way.
 
Make sure it's perfectly round, no amount of glue/beading/clamping is going to seal on a pipe that isn't round. I don't have any beads on my pipes, I just spit on them, slide em in the coupler and crank em down with t-bolts. It's held 16lbs daily and handled spikes of over 25.
 
If i just roughen up the area and use jb to make the bead is their any chance it could come loose? It would be on stainless steel? I would hate to have a big piece of j.b fly through my engine?

I have done the JB Weld/bead method on my j-pipe as well as on a couple other IC pipes and it has held up extremely well over the last 2 years. None of it has broken off. And I have solid aluminum motor mounts so I have a lot of vibration.

I actually used JB Kwik because it sets up a lot quicker.
 
Make sure it's perfectly round, no amount of glue/beading/clamping is going to seal on a pipe that isn't round. I don't have any beads on my pipes, I just spit on them, slide em in the coupler and crank em down with t-bolts. It's held 16lbs daily and handled spikes of over 25.

Lmao at the I just spit on them. The hair spray deal and/or clear spray paint will work too.
 
My turbo set up has a j pipe that comes straight down on the drivers side of the engine bay to my short route piping and about 1 out of 5 times i hit the boost it blows off. My j pipe was custom made and it took alot of manhandling and grinding on my part to finally get it on there without any leaks. Is there any kind of like gupe i can get to stick on their to give it a little friction so i dont have to worry about it slippin? I know i could take it off and get a rim welded on it, but i Kid you not its like a half day job to get this thing on their with no leaks. Any ideas? O yea and i have tried both kinds of clamps.

get better couplers
 
I had to do the JB Weld bead for one of my coupler sections, and some of my other couplers have popped off but the one with JB Weld, surprisingly, hasn't. I'm not saying that the JB Weld bead is better than a real bad, but it's obviously just as good.
 
A few places sell a tool to bead pipes and fab all kinds of sh!t:hellyeah:
Its not to cheap but you can do a lot with one of these:
Woodward Fab WFBR6 - Woodward Fab Bead Rollers - summitracing.com
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Or take them to a muffler shop and have them weld on the bead.
On my old IC pipe setup I had them weld it in two spots on each open end of pipe to be connected, you will need to file down the rough edges also or you'll rip the coupler from the inside out.
 
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