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Twicks, I really appreciate your willingness to answer my questions. You rock. Thanks to the rest of you for giving your answers and opinions as well. Twicks, have you had your car dynoed again after the new head and cam setup or were those numbers you posted with your old stockish head setup? If so, did you see a huge performance increase from the head upgrade? My 2g head Is basically stock, it has been hot tanked and has all new factory size valves and fp3 cams as well as a new set of fp dual valve springs and retainers. I had originally planned to do a head upgrade as one of my last mods, but the shop that is tuning my car right now keeps telling me to have headwork done first (valve job and porting or buy a new one) in order to see the most noticeable power from my upgrades. Do you think I should stick with the head I have or upgrade? Also, my engine is not o-ringed, but it does have arp head studs and a cometic HG. Is o-ringing and using an MLS HG necessary to make 500whp on pump and 700whp on c16 and if so can it be done without me having to pull the engine again? I have about 9k that I can spend on the car right now, and by the time I upgrade the turbo, maft, axles, injectors, a bigger intercooler, transmission, differential, misc drivetrain parts, a little bit of labor, and a clutch, I don't know If I'll have enough money left for a head upgrade. What should I spend my money on with my limited budget?
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Just so you all know, I described my cylinder head in a previous post. I did not say anything about O-ringing the head or block -- I am not running an O-ringed head/or block setup -- Just good ole ARP L19 Head studs and a Mitsu MLS gasket (not copper-sprayed). Nothing special; seals 50psi just fine. Just perfectly flat surfaces on the head and block.
Stay away from MAFT -- you will be better off running AEM EMS with a 5-bar MAP sensor and an AIT sensor. This is a much better investment.
Axles -- contact Marty at Raxles (
Raxles - Raxles Home ) and tell him that you are looking at the same ones that Tim Zimmer has -- they are the Raxles RACE axles. You will be shocked how much less they are than the driveshaft shop, and they have a lifetime warranty against breaking -- they break or damage, replaced for free -- for life. Period.
Injectors -- You will need 1000cc injectors and dual fuel pumps (255HP in the tank, and a 255HP in-line) with -6AN feed line to the rail with an in-line filter, and a hardwire kit using a 5-prong relay with two signal prongs on it. Use 8-gauge power wire from the battery back to the relay, and a 8-gauge ground for the relay. Use 10-gauge from the relay to each fuel pump, with in-line 30-amp fuses on each pump power line. I also used a 60A in-line fuse at the 8-gauge wire by the battery. The stock fuel rail has no problems in this combination.
Intercooler -- Precision Turbo and Engine (PTE) large air-to-air intercooler core with 2.5" intercooler pipes will be plenty.
Intake -- Forced Performance Cast aluminum 4" intake pipe with large K&N filter.
Transmission -- you will want a good 4-spider center diff. Screw welding it if it is a street car, it will bind up alot and only make the car less enjoyable to drive. If possible, use a new viscous coupler, and a Quaife front differerntial. Also be sure to have a heavy duty 3/4 gearset (Early 1992 parts), and a late model input shaft and intermediate shaft (95-99-spec).
Clutch -- Quarter Master twin disk from Adam at
DEVOTUNING, Home of the world's fastest EVO .
Start with these, and get some numbers on how much it is going to cost you.