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Your most recent welding pics

SlowChild3

Proven Member
545
9
Aug 19, 2005
Dayton, Ohio
I'm bored at work :) gas -no gas
 

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Imback

15+ Year Contributor
1,234
90
Nov 8, 2006
Long island, New_York
Simple unavoidable fact and or physics of welding stainless steel is that if you get it to a molten state (i.e. fully penetrate the wall thickness during a weld) then the back side which exosed to oxygen will "grow" and "sugar up" as we call it, it kinda grows into porous grey/black pile of non stainless and brittle crap, I just made a down pipe welding video to put up when i edit some of it (just showed using solar flux instead of back purging to be exact)

But i will grab a piece of trash stainless and cover one half the inside with flux and leave the other bare, weld it all the same and show you the difference later on today, once you see it you'll never feel right about not back purging, at least for a customer i wouldn't knowing i am delivering an inferior weld..

There's "tips and tricks" to welding better or easier, then there's some things that are just "fact" and or "must haves" to do a PROPER weld, and back purging or fluxing SS is one of them, you'd never pass any kind of certification on a SS weld of anything you can fully penetrate without some how keeping oxygen out of the back of the weld... hell or else you could turn the argon off and weld stainless ifg back gas wasn't needed

I know the psychics of welding stainless so a lecture is not needed. I simply stated that i don't see the need to back purge a o2 housing or an exhaust for that matter. I have done more exhaust systems then you have and have never had one come back cause of an ' Inferior" weld. Were not talking about medical grade gas chambers that need to be x-rayed were talking about a exhaust plain and simple.
 

dsmornothing

Proven Member
604
8
Jul 23, 2009
Ishpeming, Michigan
I know the psychics of welding stainless so a lecture is not needed. I simply stated that i don't see the need to back purge a o2 housing or an exhaust for that matter. I have done more exhaust systems then you have and have never had one come back cause of an ' Inferior" weld. Were not talking about medical grade gas chambers that need to be x-rayed were talking about a exhaust plain and simple.

I agree. And even with a manifold, I only see the need to purge when you dont have a perfect fit somewhere. Fitment is everything with this stuff. In my experience 100% full penetration is not needed on exhaust parts...
 

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,378
111
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
I know the psychics of welding stainless so a lecture is not needed. I simply stated that i don't see the need to back purge a o2 housing or an exhaust for that matter. I have done more exhaust systems then you have and have never had one come back cause of an ' Inferior" weld. Were not talking about medical grade gas chambers that need to be x-rayed were talking about a exhaust plain and simple.

well, to start with i don't know any Psychics that predict welding futures or outcomes, now if you're talking physics, that's another thing and still has no real relation to welding (it's the study of mater and it's relation or movement in space and time),BUT, just in case we need a word, metallurgy would be a better subject to study or word to use to sound cool.

IT wasn't a lecture or an insult,(there's CERTAIN things i don't back-gas that are too thick to need it) , but for anyone to say it's "not needed" especially one thin walled pipe where it's most cruicial, and that there's no "harmfull" effect, well, I felt the need to point out facts behind the back-gassing, people search these forums and take a lot of what they read as "the gospe'" so it's best to be clear on things like this. easiest way i can say is weld one pipe sch 40, 1.5" diameter and hand 200 lbs from the end of it and expose it to vibration along side one that was done with gass and see whch one cracks or breaks first.. a manifold holding a turbo, I would want it done perfectly correct from choice in filler to material selection and back gassing unless i'm going for trhe cheapest ebay piece i can find (which still have proper welds in most cases)

As for not back gassing an o2 housing or manifold, personally those are two things i wouldn't skimp on myself, but each has his own way.. Aside from a few pipe certs which only carry through one job/site, i have passed my 4130/4140 and AL (5052 and 6061 tests) for FAA regulation to repair small aircraft, so i think i'm capable of welding with the proper techniques.. just because you can "get by" not doing something that's usually required doesn't mean it's the "better way" that's all i'm getting at. Hell in fact, it's not something i would brag about if you do it as a business either your main or a side business, I know if i could spend the same money to know something either didn't have nasty "sugar" slag in it and the other one did, i'd pick the nice clean one first any day. and that's probably why i repair so many headers made in KC by alarge performance shop down there ( you can see they were back gassed but also see the welds are for asthetics and not strength, as well as undercut, because the general "public' concensus is "small tiny low profile welds are good"

as for knowing what i have and haven't done, until you can say we were neighbors for years or you can say you've been welding for 10-15 years longer than i have and know my DOB anmd when I started welding, don't try and insult me as if i'm inexperienced in what i do. I won't even elaborate, except to say i'm down to compare arc hours on my newest TIG machine since the day it was bought just a few years ago by posting a pic of it in that mode if you need to see the amount of welding i do in TIG alone and i'll post the purchase date as well in reciept scan form if i need to but i really don't care how many of what anyone has done, it's HOW it was done i care about
 

Imback

15+ Year Contributor
1,234
90
Nov 8, 2006
Long island, New_York
From a business standpoint you can not charge the same amount of money for a piece that has been back purged and one that hasn't. If you even wanted to back purge and not by another bottle and use your existing bottle your going to be spending close to 100 more for a dual outlet regulator. It's not about getting by it's about what your stating as fact. I never said back purging was bad simply that it is not needed in this case.
 

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,378
111
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
From a business standpoint you can not charge the same amount of money for a piece that has been back purged and one that hasn't. If you even wanted to back purge and not by another bottle and use your existing bottle your going to be spending close to 100 more for a dual outlet regulator. It's not about getting by it's about what your stating as fact. I never said back purging was bad simply that it is not needed in this case.

And that i will totally agree with, some places it isn't a must, some cases you really shouldn't risk without it..

then agian there's two sayings i weld by and they contradict each other heavily.

1.) (thoughts at most times) = weld EVERYTHING as if it were the space shuttle or nuclear powerplant.

2.) (said while welding) = Well, it's not like this is the space shuttle or a powerplant, just get it done. LOL

IF you do a lot of stainless you MUST try the solarflux B, i'll mail you enough to weld up a few pipes for nothing and I bet you're hooked on it right away...welds look shiny at full penetration, and it's even re-usable (mix with HEET/methanol, apply with toothbrush 1" to each side of pipe weld edges, creates o2 free enviroment inside the pipe as you heat it from welding, welds are always shiny and silver on the backside, almost reming you of a good ARC weld with the slad cleaned off LOL

Seriousely, if you want some i'll try and mail you enough to try, but at 67 bucks a pint of powder it can be intimidating now i can't belive i burned the money i did on purging back in the day, this eliminated the need 100% as far as using argon , i was skeptical, but its now seen as money well spent because i would have burned up 30+ Q bottles of argon to Back gas the amount of material i've flux protected with about 1/8th the can of powder including what i've spilled and couldn't recover, you can built a tube manifold with about 3 tablespoons worth :D

ok, i'll stop about it, PM address if you wanna try it out
 
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CODE4

Proven Member
427
44
Jun 6, 2004
Tampa, Florida
I doubt that's a cold weld, any coloration past "hey" or gold means you're actually too hot and there's early exposure to oxygen, You can weld 16 gauge SS pipe with only about 65 amps (less when it's heated up by the middle/end of the weld passes) That weld to me doesn't look cold and i'm down to bet there's full penetration, what makes that weld "look cold" to some is that there's filler used in regular dippings on that unlike most stainless which is done in an "autogenous" fashion where only enough filler is added to start the bond and or to prevent undercuttin the material. I've been certified on a few jobs for stainless work and i've also passed aircraft certification (one of the FEW taht lasts past a single job) but those were on aluminum (non cast) and chro-moly 4130 and 4140 using an ER70s-6 and Er80 fillers ( using 41xx chro-mo filler on aircraft or race car chassis is a ticket to catastrophe)

I'm not ripping into you I just want to know what makes youthink it's a cold weld

No sweat turboglenn - you definitely smoke me in the experience department. I have maintained my aerospace GTAW cert. for about 3 years now (of course the work does not remain that constant) and what I primarily do is SS process piping, SS sch. piping, and SS structural.

I was assuming no root pass in that particular picture so judging by the bead profile and color I again assumed there was not 100% full penetration and either too much filler or not enough heat.

With regard to the necessity of full penetration - in my opinion if the welder has the skill to do it, then why not? It provides a much stronger weldment regardless of condition.

I grabbed some scrap 2" sanitary tubing, 16 gauge (0.065), and tacked them together. Without a purge, I used 1/16" 316L filler at three different points on the joint at 35 amps, 45 amps, and 65 amps. Pardon the camera phone pictures, but you can see where they burned through and sugared on the inside.

I understand that different industries require different products, but even for an O2 housing or exhaust tubing I would not expect sugar/oxidation on welds of a product I was paying for.

I am not trying to start a war here, as any professional welder understands that there will always be criticism of some kind readily available (otherwise, no sense publicly displaying your weld, right?).

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turboglenn

Proven Member
6,378
111
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
It's all good, ANd reading back it sounds fully argumentative but i really was just stating things and not really trying to get into it with anyone. I just had some dealing early on in welding that i did some stuff for a local waterjet shop that was to be used for the water feed/return system so he could run it through some sort of filter and cooler, and I didn't back gas anything on it (it was .063") or aprox gauge. And when i handed it off to the guy he straight said " i'm not paying for this" and he complained about the sugaring and also the tiny little bit of undercutting i had going on (and i mean it was TINUY undercutting of the very edge of the bead) And i've had a few other customers who were really really picky about the SS welds and how well they were done. When i had my retail space i shared in with the metal supplier i used to use. (franchisee was called metal supermarkets) and i was doing some ventilation tubing for them that cam out of the ground, went 16 feet in the air and then went into a 180* bend so that water, bugs and nesting birds wouldn't end up in it, that stuff was 1/8th thick and i didn'thave to back gas, or flux that stuf because as you said, full penetration wasn't needed for the application, it wasn't gonna be x-rays so i was scratch starting it on it because the pice was too awkward to to use a pedal on and have it on a wqelding table. But anyway, that was just fine with them, but whemn i have sugaring like the second picture i iusually get complaints so i have just back gassed or fluxed since then.

my offer still stands though, if neither of you have used solarflux B or haven't nbought it because the pice, I'll mail yuou a little and you can test it out and see what you think, but i garauntee you'll buy some afterwards, it's got all the nbenefits of purging, but no wasted gas, no plugging up the ends and you're free to work with the piece and move it around without messing up your "jigging" for the gas inlet... anyway, though, like i said, mix witrh methanol (heet ) and usew a toothbruch and put 12" on each side of the weld. and trhe heat from the metal coming to it's meltin point sets the flux burning (just like stick or flux core wire welding) and the flux expels oxygen somehow

well, back into the lab, more mad scientist shit to b built.
 

Prib9671

Proven Member
123
5
Jun 9, 2009
Rathdrum, Idaho
Hey fellow dsmers, just starting tig welding a couple of months ago, not much seat time until this last project. Things are really coming together, especially the last couple of welds. I started learning better technique and how to get more consistant beads. Let me know what ya think about my 3 pc cross member setup. I saw a couple things I will be changing on the next one I will be making this week so it will look and be better for sure. Its funny you can actually see the welds getting better every picture LOL!
 

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Prib9671

Proven Member
123
5
Jun 9, 2009
Rathdrum, Idaho
Thanks man I appreciate it, but I got a lot more practicing to do. I have a new "old style" sycrowave 200. I'm not trying to be in any competition, especially with Paul or Bulfab. I just love building/making my own parts and maybe a couple extra here and there to fund my new found hobby. I simply just don't the have the time to manufacture them. Plus I'm limited to the 1g auto awd design because that's the only car I have to test and build from and I won't sell product that might or might not fit. I will be making a T3 manifold soon and if it goes well I would love to make lots of those and sell them to the dsm crowd.
 

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,378
111
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
HEre's a few where i got bored, decided to weld with some scrap 3" SS boiler maker steam pipe "pie wedges" that were left over from other DP builds, and since i didn't have a 3" V-band left, I decided to make the transition from 2.5" to 3" in the first 3 bends, sounds radical, but two of the pieces are actually tapered for enlarging to 3" just on a straght piece LOL

some of the welds are older pieces, as all of it's left overs from stuff either welded and re-cut and changed or a few clean pieces of wedges of the thick SS fitters pipe.

I was wondering if you guys think at 500hp levels, that ging from 2.5 to 3" about two inches furter from the turbine would even matter ?? I mena the turbine wheel is only 2.5 on mine (hx35 turbine) in T3 garret housing, but anyway, just want to go V-band at the DP to trurbo becuase undoing those 5 bolts from under a hot manifold sucks, and just taking them out with 1/32nds of a turn of your wrench each time they must be a half hous to get off and 45 to get on since ytou need to make them all line up via a jack under the flex since i have to pull it an inch short when i salveg what i go on there now with the AWD swap

just a ton of pics, showing using solarflux for those wondering what it's like to use, and was a good reason to take pics

camer phone is the best still cam i have LOL

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not sure who remembers but the down pipe on the car was built in a modular 3 piece design where there's a 3 bolt flange at the "front" of the oil pan before the flex, then again after the flex section there's a V-band that connects the "cat-testpipe that's connected to a mostly thermal AWD cat-back system, so if i measured right , All i need to do to put this on is MAYBE shorten the area after the second bend a little and then tack the flange on with it in the car so that i could be sure it lines up..... I hope the 2.5 won't kill too much with that small transition ( i don't think i'll feel it at all) but mainly because in some pics you can see my "slip fit" wastegate re-route,. I wanna make this baby quiet now :D, i figure if a quiet system costs me ~25HP, then i'll turn it up to the 30psi range from the 27 and still make a good 480hp to all 4 wheels and do it in stealth, bnecause these cars once 3" TB exh and a larger turbo, face it you're not cneaking around anywhere or past any cop, definitely not if the waste gate is open and dumping atmosphere like mine :D (i want quiet like the GN is , that car barely made noise and was running 10.90's and 10 years ago!!!!!!
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in this one you can see a piece of 16gauge SS that was previousely welded full penetration with flux, (easy and cheap) and look how nice the insides of the pipe are, just clean and shiny :D
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in this one you can see how much thicker the SS boiler makers pipe is, its only rated at 1/16th" but it definitely is thicker and has a lot more sound deadening quality than thinner exhaust stuff like the mandrel bends most places sell and the straght stainless you get in a lot of SS products (those bends were one from a SS turn down on an E-cut-out system i built last summer and the other from another "commercial" (thermal) brand exhaust system. The thin stuff echose and makes a much raspy'er tone, where the SS made my car lower pitched and not as loud when going from a 2.3 to 3" DP because the pipe is too thick to "ring" with vibration (welds beautifully too, i could totally do boiler maker welds all day :D)
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Bo0sTdTsI

Proven Member
327
2
Jan 21, 2010
Amarillo, Texas
Ive been hearing alot about solarflux B but havent been able to find it here in town for some damn reason. i would never fuse 16gauge, alot do but i dont because of what i see done a the plant i work at and they always break, and not backpurging stainless pipe theyll get really pissy about. Everyone has there own way of doing thing and i gotta say im glad i just do it even though it is not neccessary, its a good habit in my opinion for having a high quality weld. We had someone fall through a catwalk not that long ago because whoever welded it only fused and never used filer. They were already blaming me for the prject but i know my welds ad how i do them, andthe worst part was they were trying to fire me over that when i never layed one hand or weld on that project. Just my word of advce dont fuse where weight is going t be put on top. Nice projects by the way everyone i never have time to get started on my dang tubulars and my pipes and flanges are just sitting there.
 

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,378
111
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
Ive been hearing alot about solarflux B but havent been able to find it here in town for some damn reason. i would never fuse 16gauge, alot do but i dont because of what i see done a the plant i work at and they always break, and not backpurging stainless pipe theyll get really pissy about. Everyone has there own way of doing thing and i gotta say im glad i just do it even though it is not neccessary, its a good habit in my opinion for having a high quality weld. We had someone fall through a catwalk not that long ago because whoever welded it only fused and never used filer. They were already blaming me for the prject but i know my welds ad how i do them, andthe worst part was they were trying to fire me over that when i never layed one hand or weld on that project. Just my word of advce dont fuse where weight is going t be put on top. Nice projects by the way everyone i never have time to get started on my dang tubulars and my pipes and flanges are just sitting there.

Yea, I agree there's a time, place and use for Autogenouse welding of stainless and especially the thin gauge stuff, doing it on exhaust piping though as long as there's a flex section i've NEVER had an issue with on too many down pipes to count and many "dump tubes", however on a manifold i doubt you'd be so lucky. That's another reason i say they are "mainly autogenous" is because there's still filler, just minimal.. if you are talking about a "stack of dimes" i'd say on 16gauge exhaust work i'd use about 1 dip of filler ever 6-7 "dimes" or so. Basically enough to keep the weld from being udnercut at the toe, but not so much that too much heat is input to get a smooth clean profile weld, or where it looks cold or "built up"

We all have our own methods and that's the best part about forums, we can share this stuff and it's results.
 

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,378
111
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
Code4, that's some beautiful work, is that 316 rod? I never was that good at walking the cup, i did a pipe cert test a few times on some union things i tried but as soon as I was good en ough they tried shipping me to vegas for work for 6=9 months and i had a woman, dogs and was trying to start a family. So I guess for the better choice or howevere you look at it i left the localo pipe fitters and wentback to paitning (i never got that good at stick welding either and that and walking the cup are things i regret not getting good enough at and know that if i went to vegas i would have been awesome at it by the time i got back.

Just in most of the stuff i do there's no groove or i'm not on a 90* long enough to have a good "walk"

Any tips you care to share on that/? Another problem i have anymore is the nervous system damage i'm suffering from the porphyria (genetic condition condition i have that's slowly crippling me) that stuff has me whrere sometimes now days i can't keep the tungsten out of thew puddle without my meds to keep my hands some what steady, plus I get in so much pain now days when i sitr at the welding table and work that if i didn't enjoy metal so much i wouldn't even do it for the money at my highest doller per hour rate.
 

Imback

15+ Year Contributor
1,234
90
Nov 8, 2006
Long island, New_York
Reminds me of my early years. I remember being 18 and thought i was so cool cause i layed beads like that LOL. (16-18) all aluminum.Now i regret not taking my state test when i was fresh. So now i have to take a refresher course since its been over a decade since i have done stick.
 

CODE4

Proven Member
427
44
Jun 6, 2004
Tampa, Florida
Code4, that's some beautiful work, is that 316 rod? I never was that good at walking the cup, i did a pipe cert test a few times on some union things i tried but as soon as I was good en ough they tried shipping me to vegas for work for 6=9 months and i had a woman, dogs and was trying to start a family. So I guess for the better choice or howevere you look at it i left the localo pipe fitters and wentback to paitning (i never got that good at stick welding either and that and walking the cup are things i regret not getting good enough at and know that if i went to vegas i would have been awesome at it by the time i got back.

Just in most of the stuff i do there's no groove or i'm not on a 90* long enough to have a good "walk"

Any tips you care to share on that/? Another problem i have anymore is the nervous system damage i'm suffering from the porphyria (genetic condition condition i have that's slowly crippling me) that stuff has me whrere sometimes now days i can't keep the tungsten out of thew puddle without my meds to keep my hands some what steady, plus I get in so much pain now days when i sitr at the welding table and work that if i didn't enjoy metal so much i wouldn't even do it for the money at my highest doller per hour rate.

Thanks! It is 316L filler, used 1/16" for the root pass & 1/8" for 2nd pass. My job only uses 316L and 309 for all the stuff we do. 17 flex head torch with a standard gas lens & #8 cup w/3/32 2% Thor. As far as tips, a relaxed grip and very light pressure - when I started welding I had a problem death gripping my torch head.

Pipe fitting on the road is definitely where the money is at but tough on family life. I got my cert shortly after my time in the Marines so I was not interested in time away from the family either.

Thats a hella uniform weld man, how long have you been welding tig code4?

Only about 2.5 years, but I do this kind of work 60+ hours a week so my torch time has built up pretty quickly. Thanks for the compliments too!
 

Bo0sTdTsI

Proven Member
327
2
Jan 21, 2010
Amarillo, Texas
Damn working the same hours i am LOL but i do more stick pipe than tig. Thats badass for 2.5 years, i tig on and off and wish i had more practice at it but i swear they try keeping me away from welding at work and it pisses me off wish i would get to weld more often.
 

TSIflyer95

Proven Member
217
4
Feb 24, 2011
Columbia, South_Carolina
I was able to get my hands on the tig again for a little while this last week. I made my motor mounts, 1/8" hot rolled steel. Then I practiced my aluminum. Aluminum was .040 cheap aluminum. For three weeks if tig welding ever in my life, I'm pretty happy with how far I've come.

I feel like the main problem I have is the undercut. I'm either carrying too big of a puddle or not using enough filler material. I haven't figured it out yet.

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Still need to practice. But much better!

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