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1G Yellowed front light bars

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Red Rider

10+ Year Contributor
103
47
Aug 12, 2009
NW, Connecticut
I was smart and replaced the side lights and turn signals when parts were easy. I didn't replace the center garnish and while it is intact, it has yellowed.

Has anyone found a way to reverse this? There's a number of techniques on the internet (vinegar, baking soda, peroxide, etc) but I'm sure the best technique varies with the type of plastic. Is this Plexiglass, aka acrylic? Or Lexan, aka polycarbonate? Anyone had any sucess?

Thanks.
 
Follow my steps on how to polish the front headlights on a 1gb. It will clean right up like this one.
My article is HERE. :thumb:.....and yes I have an LED light right in the middle of mine so you don't think you are seeing things.
Marty

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Thanks, Marty. I'll give it a try, and will post the results. I've done a few headlights and have the kits, so those pads and polishes should work pretty good.

Maybe I should put in some sequencing LEDs KITT style...

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Last edited:
I had 2 garnishes so I modded this one to have a lighted one. I DID polish this one the same way I do all of my lenses, just like in my thread. It works really good, you'll like it. :)
That yellow shit will roll right off when you wet sand, you'll see it then just polish her up with Mirror Glaze.

Dan, if your Red Triangles need repainted, tape them off and do them first then polish the clear. Just wanted to add that.
 
Let me look. I think you are right, they may be inside. I did that garnish over a year ago.
Yep, they are on the inside. I painted them from the hole I made in the back for my LED. I used Testors Red model paint IIRC.
 
I used to use regular paste toothpaste. Make sure its just regular, not whitening or fluoride,any of that. Bought mine at dollar general for a dollar. Used an old sock to buff then washed it, and worked pretty well.

Although I want to try this meguires stuff you used marty.
 
Well I have to go against that. I did my headlights and purposely didn't clear coat them as I didn't want to have to sand the clear off and then polish again. My son did his headlights and clear coated them. It has a tendency to peel/haze and after the same amount of time, his need done again and mine don't so I never use clear coat on my plastic clear parts and that is just my opinion, not the gospel, but I do have 2 cars done at the same time that I can compare against each other and my son was sure wanting me to clear coat my headlights, but I am glad I didn't.
 
Well I have to go against that. I did my headlights and purposely didn't clear coat them as I didn't want to have to sand the clear off and then polish again. My son did his headlights and clear coated them. It has a tendency to peel/haze and after the same amount of time, his need done again and mine don't so I never use clear coat on my plastic clear parts and that is just my opinion, not the gospel, but I do have 2 cars done at the same time that I can compare against each other and my son was sure wanting me to clear coat my headlights, but I am glad I didn't.
He's probably having clear coat issues because he either didn't properly prep the surface or he didn't use a 2k clearcoat. Regular rattle can clear coat is a 1k, you need to buy a 2k because it lasts longer and adheres to the surface better.

It is true though. Re-buffing a light is much quicker and easier than re clear coating it.
 
The 2k clears have a hardener in it and they have a shelf life (usually 48h) after you break the seal in them. Its the UV light that ruins plastics and basecoats. Getting a high quality 2k clear is the best option. Most new cars come with a coating on the headlights but the coating can be low quality. My bosses toyota truck headlights are already peeling.

I tried the sand/polish option and mine are already yellow. I might end up taking the housings apart unless I can clean the inside of the lenses real well and completely sand the outside and get a high quality 2k clear. I used the mothers kit on mine and they looked pretty good but they just didnt hold up, especially when compared to my new side markers, you can clearly see the difference in them.
 
A good 2k clear will run you $20 per can.
I bet that is the reason his are starting to have a craze to them. I asked him last night about his headlights. Mine, however, are still looking good. I do wax them though.
Thanks Solomon! :thumb:
 
Before and after:

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I wet sanded with 1000, then 1500, then 3000, then wet compound with a foam pad on a drill. Maybe if in bright sunlight I see swirl marks I might need to wet polish with some glaze compound, but it looks pretty good now. Thanks for the idea, it saved me from buying a replacement when I really didn't need to. Although I wouldn't mind having one on the shelf in case of a shopping cart or other type hangar rash happens. I have spare tail lights for just that reason already.
 
Much prettier!!!
 
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