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would running a car without oil squirters be a problem?

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5.0notch

Probationary Member
29
0
Jul 15, 2002
FL
I recently got a 90' turbo talon and the engine is shit. my g/f's dad bought me a n/t 4g63 longblock as a gift. If I was to fit the n/t with turbo pistons, and tap the block for the knock sensor would the head and tranny bolt up to the n/t 4g63? would it be ok to run without the oil squirters? if not is there any way I can put the oil squirters in the n/t block?
 
Originally posted by 5.0notch
I recently got a 90' turbo talon and the engine is shit. my g/f's dad bought me a n/t 4g63 longblock as a gift. If I was to fit the n/t with turbo pistons, and tap the block for the knock sensor would the head and tranny bolt up to the n/t 4g63? would it be ok to run without the oil squirters? if not is there any way I can put the oil squirters in the n/t block?

As for the squirters, you don't NEED them but they do help cool the pistons and reduce the chance of detonation. I made a butt ton of power on my SR20DE without squirters but I would rather have had them if I could.

As for the tranny...dunno. I don't see why not but I've never played with the Mitsubishi NT stuff.
 
So it would be okay to remove the squirters from a turbo block also?


just the chance of more detonation?

How does it help cool? by having more oil on the cylinder walls thus less friction and less heat, or the actual oil squirting under the piston and being the oil cooler which will cool the piston down.

What about how long the engine will last, will it be less without squirters?
 
I think you would have to block them on a turbo block because you would have low oil pressure then. It cools the piston keeping it cooler, the oil splashes the bottom of the piston lower the temp.
 
Originally posted by Kingdom
How does it help cool?...the actual oil squirting under the piston and being the oil cooler which will cool the piston down.

Yes.

If you have them there is no point to remove them.
 
Originally posted by Kingdom

How does it help cool? by having more oil on the cylinder walls thus less friction and less heat, or the actual oil squirting under the piston and being the oil cooler which will cool the piston down.
Engine oil's second job is cooling. With squirters, the bottoms of the pistons are actually being hosed with a fair amount of oil all the time to draw heat away from the piston crown. Racey-racer stuff, number one Joe.
Your oil pump's main job is oil _cooling_ -a plain bearing will _hold_ oil to the point it'll build up enough heat to destroy the oil, and then the bearing. The pump forces fresh oil in, displacing that already held by the bearing. Plain bearings won't force oil out in the way a roller bearing will, but will draw oil in (see the dippers in a Model T rod big-end).
 
is it possible to transfer my oil squirters from my dead turbo block to my new n/t block with the turbo pistons?
 
I remeber awhile back reading about some crankwalk theory's and somehow oil squirters came into the discussion. There was a non-offical test done with a bunch of dead 4g63t blocks. They found that because of the way the oil squirters were built, (tube with a ball and spring inside) they could be clogged with oil. They squirters could get stuck open once they were clogged (check valve). This would cause the squirters to spray all the time, which can lower oil pressure and is unneeded at say, idle. The shop that did this test decided not to incorporate squirters in the rest of the engines they built. Aparantly they work fine without them.

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm
 
Is there anyway i can just use the n/t shortblock and keep the boost low (like 6psi) just to be able to drive it for awhile while i rebuild my turbo engine?
 
I don't see why it wouldnt work and you would probably be surprized at how well it would run. The high compression of the N/A engine will have great responce. I would set the base timing at about 4or 5deg., always run good fuel and just not abuse it. You could probably run 8 or 9psi safely. I would run NGK BPR7ESs @ .028 or .03 and a 160deg. thermostat to help control knock.
 
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