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2G Wiring relay for launching in 2nd gear

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If your going to launch it keep it in sport mode. Should wire your switch if you havent already.

I installed a ratchet shifter with mine so i can manual shift when i want.

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I hit up Shawn today to ask some questions about shifting using rpm instead of the mph and he has a cool update coming out. Here's what he said...
 
Is this for a 100.1 or 150? I have an update available very soon for the 150 that will automatically switch between RPM and auto shift map based on a definable TPS limit. The 100.1 will also receive the update, but it will be a little longer until it is ready. Many other improvements are included with the update as well.

The issue if both methods are enabled is if the MPH and RPM shift point are very near each other one may trigger a shift and before the shift is completed the other may also command a shift, which could cause a double shift. Not likely to occur, but possible. The best method is to only enable RPM up-shifts when you intend to use them (like for a day at the track) and turn off TCU mode. Simply performing a manual shift will turn off TCU mode so no auto shifts will be performed, except the RPM shifts. Alternatively you can set up an input on a toggle switch or similar to enable/disable auto/manual mode.
 
Is this for a 100.1 or 150? I have an update available very soon for the 150 that will automatically switch between RPM and auto shift map based on a definable TPS limit. The 100.1 will also receive the update, but it will be a little longer until it is ready. Many other improvements are included with the update as well.

The issue if both methods are enabled is if the MPH and RPM shift point are very near each other one may trigger a shift and before the shift is completed the other may also command a shift, which could cause a double shift. Not likely to occur, but possible. The best method is to only enable RPM up-shifts when you intend to use them (like for a day at the track) and turn off TCU mode. Simply performing a manual shift will turn off TCU mode so no auto shifts will be performed, except the RPM shifts. Alternatively you can set up an input on a toggle switch or similar to enable/disable auto/manual mode.

Is this for a 100.1 or 150? I have an update available very soon for the 150 that will automatically switch between RPM and auto shift map based on a definable TPS limit. The 100.1 will also receive the update, but it will be a little longer until it is ready. Many other improvements are included with the update as well.

The issue if both methods are enabled is if the MPH and RPM shift point are very near each other one may trigger a shift and before the shift is completed the other may also command a shift, which could cause a double shift. Not likely to occur, but possible. The best method is to only enable RPM up-shifts when you intend to use them (like for a day at the track) and turn off TCU mode. Simply performing a manual shift will turn off TCU mode so no auto shifts will be performed, except the RPM shifts. Alternatively you can set up an input on a toggle switch or similar to enable/disable auto/manual mode.
I tried the auto and manual mode using my OD switch. I dont need a tps triggered rpm shift with it like that
 
I set my sport map to switch from 3rd to 4th at 100mph. When I launched, I was at about 110mph and the car was still in 3rd. Is there a setting that I'm missing that doesn't allow the car to shift into overdrive when starting from a launch? Seems to be the last hiccup I'm having.

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Yep, press and hold the up button. It will lock out overdrive.
Press and hold again to unlock.
You may need to pull your map down a few MPH, but "don't do pulls in 4th" is my motto.
 
Yep, press and hold the up button. It will lock out overdrive.
Press and hold again to unlock.
You may need to pull your map down a few MPH, but "don't do pulls in 4th" is my motto.
I wouldn't do it all the time but there will be times when it's needed. The tranny is built. Do I press and hold the up button on any tab? Where do you see that setting?
 
On the handheld. Press and hold the up button on it. It should turn on a yellow led on the handheld unit indicating it is locked out.
 
On the handheld. Press and hold the up button on it. It should turn on a yellow led on the handheld unit indicating it is locked out.
Ah. I don't have a handheld. I have the smart 150 and do everything through the application.
 
Can you set the Smart 150 up to shift by RPM's? That is another option on my Smart 100.1
 
The issue if both methods are enabled is if the MPH and RPM shift point are very near each other one may trigger a shift and before the shift is completed the other may also command a shift, which could cause a double shift. Not likely to occur, but possible. The best method is to only enable RPM up-shifts when you intend to use them (like for a day at the track) and turn off TCU mode. Simply performing a manual shift will turn off TCU mode so no auto shifts will be performed, except the RPM shifts. Alternatively you can set up an input on a toggle switch or similar to enable/disable auto/manual mode.
This HAS occurred to me when both were enabled and led to a lot of problems after it did the double shift. It happened goin from 2nd to 3rd at 8800 rpm (see the video HERE) and went right on into 4th, toasting the OD clutches and leading to more issues down the line. I will be looking forward to the update, thanks for sharing. :thumb:
 
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Can you set the Smart 150 up to shift by RPM's? That is another option on my Smart 100.1
I can but as of now Shawn said that is best used for drag only. He's working on an update so we can use it for street. It will switch between using the maps and shifting at rpm depending on tps.
 
I can but as of now Shawn said that is best used for drag only. He's working on an update so we can use it for street. It will switch between using the maps and shifting at rpm depending on tps.
Just wire up a switch for OD and thats all youll need. Keep it simple! You can even just wire one up temporarily from autozone until they tap your OD switch
 
So just an update here. Starting this post, I was assuming I would need to wire in a relay to shift into 2nd while stalling and thinking of what a pain it was gonna be. I loved using the shift box but the one I had did very little other than just shift at the rpm's I wanted at wot and that was basically it. I ordered the Smart 25 because I really didn't think I needed many features on it. But it was taking some time for Shawn to get it developed and released (understand he's a busy man though) and my track times were TERRIBLE because I could only launch in first and that wasn't cutting it. So, I paid Shawn the difference and got the Smart 150 since he had that in stock and boy am I glad I did. I freaking LOVE this thing.

I thought I would need a tcu or something for it to be shifting at the lower rpm's. Wrong. I'm still able to take advantage of the eco/sport modes (although I currently have NO idea what to do with the maps). I didn't even need a relay for the brake pedal to shift into 2nd for stall up. I just connected one wire to the switch and that was it, aside from the other wires that needed to be connected at the ecu and transmission. But as far as the brake switch it was very simple to not have to worry about a relay. And being that I had the other shift box already connected previously, all the wiring colors to be connected were basically the same as well. So installation was very simple. I had a few questions for Shawn and he answered them on Facebook without hesitation but I tried to bother him as little as possible.

Anyway, I thought the delay from 2nd back to 1st on the launch would have a delay like I heard some folks mentioning earlier. If there was one I didn't notice it. But I'm wondering if this is one of the things that was an improvement over the older versions. Last time I was at the track I was running really slow. I had a Borg S476 turbo and I couldn't get it spooled soon enough. I stepped down to a Borg S369 which helped a ton. I've also been trying to dial in my fuel, timing, etc. Still tweaking it though but it's much much better and I'm only pushing 30 psi at the moment. I'm very impressed with the shift box although I still need to figure out the shift map thing because I don't really understand it. But my compliments to Shawn for getting this out to me and making an awesome product for us guys.

On a last note, I was originally planning on just using a B&M shifter at the track and not even worry about a shift box. But I was talking to a good Facebook buddy that I've never met before by the name of Derek Austin who put the bug/thought in my head that shifting this way wouldn't be as consistent and could shift too soon or too late, etc. The shift box would shift at the same rpm all the time and without fears of over revving it (granted that I set it up correctly of course and program at a lower rpm first to see where I needed to shift). I'm glad he put the idea in my head. It's definitely paying off already. Just adding a log from tonight but I'm shifting at 8k and have to program it still to shift a bit higher. Last time at the track, people were literally laughing at me for going so slow. I hope they're there next time I'm attending.
 

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Glad to hear you are making good progress. Keep it up bro. Shawn has been great answering questions.
 
I can show you the maps that I have on my 1g. Not going to be the same as 2g but can give you a good idea.
 
Sport. Enriquez2000 helped me out a ton.

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Guess who helped him ROFL It is about the time I wrote up the thread on the 100.1
Poking at ya Sean!!!! You caught on very well!
 
Guess who helped him ROFL It is about the time I wrote up the thread on the 100.1
Poking at ya Sean!!!! You caught on very well!
Im great with computers... a couple points in the right direction and Im on it!

We are all here to help each other.. thats what makes this community great!

MARTY'S THE MAN!
 
You took the ball and ran with it. Very proud and happy for ya Sean and all the rest of you that have tried to "tame" the TCU beast! :thumb:
It was just this last weekend, on a trip to pick up another DSM, that my best friend and I were chatting about the "tow" mode on our Chevy trucks. He was telling me that it just inhibited overdrive and I corrected him and said, on the older models but on these (2004), it just changes the "shift maps" and will go into OD at over 62-63 mph. I showed him and he was puzzled and said he though it just locked out OD. If I hadn't had the experience with the shiftbox maps, I wouldn't have known it either but I showed him how it made the trans shift later and when we got to 63mph, it went into OD while pulling home the DSM on the trailer.

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Economy

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So I'm a bit lost on these maps because there's nothing on the page that indicates what numbers are for what. The numbers going up the left side. The numbers going across the bottom. The 5%, 35%, etc. Don't know if that's throttle position, how hard it shifts, or what. The numbers in the boxes themselves. What are those for? The only numbers I can figure out is the 2-1, 3-2, etc. which I'm assuming is the gear shifts.

Also, if my pressure is cranked to the max, does this even matter aside from when I shift? Wondering if Shawn (or whoever created that software) can update that page to be a little more user friendly so we know what the heck means what. I have no idea, and I don't believe there's anywhere that I've found at all that really explains it. Unless someone cares to point that out.
 
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