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2G Wiring & logging an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor

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This is a write up on how to wire in a AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor in a 2g and log it using dsmlink V3. Since V3 is installed on your car its possible to remove your MDP (manifold differential pressure) sensor and in its place wire in a MAP sensor to log actual boost.

If your still running the 2g intake manifold you'll also need to get the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter, which will let you mount the MAP sensor in place of the MDP.
It can be purchased here --> RRE 2g MDP/MAP sensor adapter and to order it you need to call them, their online ordering system sucks but they do answer their phones.

Heres what the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter looks like installed on a 2g intake manifold with a AEM MAP sensor mounted to it.

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With that being said I'm currently running an Evo III intake manifold so mounting & vacuum source locations could be different depending on your setup. The good news is that no matter what IM your running wiring in the AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor will be the same. First things first, your going to need to run to the store and grab a few things if you don't already have them.
Parts:
- (1) AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor
- (3) 18ga. to 22ga. butt connectors (they're the red ones)
- (1) roll of black electrical tape
- (1) set of wire cutter, stripper, & crimper pliers
- (1) 3/4" rubber insulated clamp
- (1) can of NOS energy drink
- (1) RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter (IF YOU'RE RUNNING A 2g INTAKE MANIFOLD)

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Wiring & Install:
Unplug your MDP connector, or dig it out from the wiring harness going to your fuel injectors and TPS (heres a link to its exact location --> MDP sensor). Once you pull it out cut back the insulation around the (3) wires going to it, using caution not to cut the wires themselves.


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Cut the (3) wires right at the back of the connector, you won't be using it again and your going to want all the length you can get so you can mount it where you want. After you cut the wires pull out your electrical pliers and strip the insulation off, exposing the wire inside. (Use the 18ga. insulator cutter on your pliers)

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Grab the supplied harness that came with your AEM MAP sensor and pull the insulation off the ends of the wires, they are pre-cut if you buy it new so using the pliers isn't necessary.

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Attach the butt connectors to the AEM MAP sensor harness and crimp them tight around the exposed wires so there are no loose connections.

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Once your 100% certain the butt connectors are tight on the MAP sensor harness connect them to the exposed wires on the MDP sensor harness. The MDP harness has a green & black wire, green & yellow wire, & a solid black wire. The AEM MAP harness has a red, green, and black wire.

**WIRE THEM TOGETHER LIKE THIS**

- MDP green/yellow wire to MAP red wire.
- MDP green/black wire to MAP green wire.
- MDP black wire to MAP black wire.

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Then after checking that the butt connectors are secured onto the wires use the original MDP wire insulation and cover as much of the butt connectors as possible. Then, using the black electrical tape, wrap the cut insulation and butt connectors up to keep them from being exposed to the elements.

To keep your MAP sensor logging accurately you need to secure it to a place it won't move around, I chose the top of my intake manifold but the firewall works too if your emissions have been removed. Just don't go crazy, you want the vacuum/boost line going to it as short as possible so it see's the boost as soon as it hits the IM.

I pulled my now MAP sensor harness under the IM and then around the back of it, on the firewall side.

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Then using the 1" rubber clamp I secured the MAP sensor TIGHT to the top of my Evo III IM. I'm also running a catch can off the valve cover so I had an open boost source off the IM where the PCV valve was sourced to. I ran a vacuum line from the IM to the AEM MAP sensor and made sure all the connections were good and tight before I close the hood and moved onto getting everything setup in dsmlink.

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Logging your AEM 3.5 MAP sensor in dsmlink V3:
I'm going to assume you already know how to connect to dsmlink with your laptop and pull up the Live Settings menu. Once you open up the Live Settings menu click the ECU Inputs tab, you should then see something like this on your screen.

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Since you wired in the AEM MAP sensor in the MDP sensors location, your going to click the Factory/none text next to the MDP and it will bring up a drop down menu to select from. We just wired in an AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor so select that from the drop down menu, it will look like this on your screen.

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Once thats selected you need to do (2) things...
1. Select the Save Pin Assignments button
2. Click the Lock Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor box under the ECU Input Locks for Factory Code sub menu.

Once everything is setup like it should be your ECU Inputs tab should look like this.

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Now all you need to do is start a datalog (F12) and then open your displayed values menu (F9) and find AEM3.5Bar in the displayable values and double-click it, bringing it over in the displayed values.

If you made it this far your G2G and you did everything correctly! If you notice that with your car off your AEM35Bar will still log -.2 in/Hg when it should be at 0. Honestly -.2 in/Hg is pretty damn accurate but if it bothers you just double click the AEM3.5Bar in the log and pull up its preferences. You'll see in the MAP sensor preferences window there's a spot to input your altitude. I'm at sea level and to get it to read 0 I had to bring it to 400 ft.

Happy Boosting and if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
 
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For a 1g intake manifold, you can drill and tap (1/8" NPT) the boss next to the brake booster nipple and thread the sensor in with teflon tape on the threads. An example is shown below with an AEM 5-bar sensor.

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*** Thanks to @turtlebain for the info provided below. ***



I got just a AEM connector and pins instead of pigtail and struggled to find the correct crimper, and information on how to assemble. This might help anyone trying to repeat what I did in the future:

--Start Addition--
If you purchased a bare connector and pins instead of getting a pigtail, or are building your own harness, this may help. Doing it the correct way is going to save you electrical headaches in the future.

Direct wiring information - as I didn't have the pigtail, I did not have any Red, Black and Green Wires. Looking at Gofer's tutorial carefully I wrote the color orientation down and used what colors connected together to come up with the following diagram:

aem-install-png.276623

**I'm make no clams to be skilled in the art of MS Paint the bottom part below the circles represent the retaining clip of the AEM connector.


Putting it all together - I did not have any luck going into auto parts stores and finding what I needed. After searching on the AEM forums, this crimper was proposed as a valid alternative to much more expensive choices.

GM Delphi Weatherpack Crimper Tool ~$35 Shipped
0-jpg.276613
1-jpg.276614


I used slot #2 for crimps on bare wire, and #3 for crimps over insulation. Just sized up to the outer edges of the crimp pin and when they slide securely into the crimper grooves, that's the slot I used.

Bare Pins -
aem-pins-jpg.276621


Results after crimping -

2015-08-16-18-33-09-jpg.276615
2015-08-16-19-23-23-jpg.276618
2015-08-16-19-25-16-jpg.276619
2015-08-16-19-31-40-jpg.276620

** The last photo was of a pin that broke because I crimped the wrong part, but still shows how the crimps wrap around and indent the top. The crimp is very secure, will not pull out, and I'm very happy with the results.

Pin removal - Use the thinnest flat head you can find or use a de-pinning tool - push in as shown.
2015-08-16-18-58-25-jpg.276616
 
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