The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G Window Rattle Fix Tutorial

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I recently fixed the notorious window rattle problem on my 2G for the drivers side and wanted to do a thorough writeup because it seemed all the previous tutorials had missing pictures and steps. My drivers side rattled a tiny bit and I wanted it gone, so here is the fix.

Tools you will need:

-Phillips Screwdriver
-10mm socket
-12mm socket
-Hex wrench (do not know the size)

Step 1: Open the door of which you are going to fix the rattle

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 2: Remove the (2) phillips screws holding the door panel on the rear side of the door panel.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 3: Remove the (2) phillips screws holding the door panel on the side toward the front of the car

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 4: Remove the cap in the handle to reveal the phillips screw holding the door panel to the door frame, and the phillips screw underneath the cap.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 5: Open the interior door handle to reveal the phillips screw that you need to remove.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 6: Remove the handle surround by 'sliding' it towards the front of the car

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 7: Now you will pull the door panel off the door. Starting from the bottom left corner of the panel. Slowly work your way around the bottom of the door panel popping the clips as you go.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 7: Pull the door panel away from the door. **SLOW DOWN, YOU NEED TO UNCLIP THE WINDOW SWITCH PLUG IF YOU HAVE POWER WINDOWS/LOCKS**

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You can see the harness in this picture. The clip pulls straight down towards the ground away from the window switch box.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 8: Remove the door panel.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 9: Remove the speaker held on with (4) phillips screws. You can set this on the ground, the wires should be long enough.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


**You will need to either remove the window switch box from the door in order to plug it back into the harness to raise/lower the window, or you can just have the door panel very close to the door and plug it in in order to use the switches, I suggest removing the window switch box from the door panel to make it easier to raise/lower the window with the door panel off**

Step 10: Looking through the hole that you just removed the speaker from, roll the window down enough so that it looks like mine did. You need to be able to reach a 10mm nut on this piece that is bolted to the lowest part of the window and connected to the window track.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Step 12: Using your 10mm socket, unbolt the metal piece shown below.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Once removed you can see that the window track slides in between this white piece of plastic.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Believe it or not, this white insert had completely fallen off of the metal bracket and was laying in the bottom of the interior door panel.

This is how I found it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Now I'm using the glass as an example of how this piece makes such a racket. In the picture below, pretend the "glass" is the "window track". Without the plastic insert, like mine was, the glass rattles back and fourth between this piece. In most cases, the plastic piece is so worn down that it has a large enough gap to rattle back and fourth.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Depending on what you find with yours, you can figure out what to do. In my case I firstly, inserted the plastic back into the bracket and then squeezed the bracket together with a vice to close the gap in the plastic piece, resulting in a closer fit to the window track.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Once you fix this problem, repeat the steps in reverse to put your door back together and live life rattle free.

**IF YOU WANT TO TAKE IT A STEP FURTHER TO ENSURE YOUR WINDOW IS IN TIP TOP SHAPE AND WILL NOT RATTLE IN THE LEAST BIT, CONTINUE ON TO STEP 13 BELOW**

We are going to rejuvenate our felt window stoppers to back to OEM spec or better, because I do not want any rattles or the chance of rattle for a very long time.

Step 13: Remove the top window trim piece, this just pulls straight up and off the door.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Step 13.1: Let your dog jump in the passenger seat so she stops getting into the trash can and so you can keep an eye on her.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Step 14: Remove the metal felt slider part towards the rear of the car using a 12mm socket and an allen wrench. You need to loosen the nut surrounding the allen stud, and then turn the stud left (loosen it, but it really isn't "loosening" the stud, its removing the felt metal piece from the stud, kind of hard to explain, just remove the felt slider bracket thing)


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Once you have the bracket removed you will notice that both sides of the felt pad are pretty worn down.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Step 15: Remove the felt pad from the metal bracket. It just flips open. I popped it open with a screwdriver.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Upon removing the felt pad, I noticed a rubber spacer between the plastic and the felt. I wanted to add another supplementary spacer here to ensure a proper snug fit.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



I just used a couple pieces of electrical tape rolled on top of each other. The pic below shows the added "spacer" next to the felt pad.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Here I spent some time "fluffing" up the felt on both sides. It looks brand new!


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Step 16: Put this piece back on the metal bracket.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Step 17: Install the metal bracket back on the door with the allen studs/12mm nut.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Now repeat the steps to put the door back together and you are done!


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



I opened/closed the door with the window at various heights to ensure there was ZERO rattles/noises etc and am extremely pleased. The door sounds super solid.


Peace!


-Brady
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top