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Wife's 2GA Talon Restoration and Build (140s or bust)

brian9397gsx

Proven Member
1,559
93
Apr 28, 2008
sioux city, Iowa
I like the hard line for the turbo feed. Are you just using a double flare ? If so where did you get the tube nuts?
 

wishihadatalon

Proven Member
2,615
70
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
I like the hard line for the turbo feed. Are you just using a double flare ? If so where did you get the tube nuts?

I'm doing a single flare for an AN fitting. You need a 37 degree flare for this which is a special flaring tool ( I bought a middle of the road Ridgid unit at $130). The tube nuts and ferrules came from Summit Racing.
 

nismojones

Proven Member
117
35
Jan 10, 2008
Eastpointe, Michigan
So impressive, well done. Even putting a fresh zinc coated bolt on the waterpipe
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
83
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
I actually got all of the bolts for the car re-plated, so they'll all look that nice :) Thank you for the compliment.

I am also in the middle of a bit of resto work on my car. Long story short battery exploded and caused a lot of rust and corrosion I plan I to take care of while I have the engine out to do a head upgrade, and wire tuck. Figured it'd be a good time to paint the bay so why not go ahead and pull everything.

What did you pay to get them re coated? I Was thinking of getting my hardware coated. But after years of ownership by questionable people, the hardware isn't matching anymore, so I was also thinking of just buying new zinc plate hardware on ebay, and some of those "fender" bolts with the colored rings for some of the stuff.
 

wishihadatalon

Proven Member
2,615
70
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
I am also in the middle of a bit of resto work on my car. Long story short battery exploded and caused a lot of rust and corrosion I plan I to take care of while I have the engine out to do a head upgrade, and wire tuck. Figured it'd be a good time to paint the bay so why not go ahead and pull everything.

What did you pay to get them re coated? I Was thinking of getting my hardware coated. But after years of ownership by questionable people, the hardware isn't matching anymore, so I was also thinking of just buying new zinc plate hardware on ebay, and some of those "fender" bolts with the colored rings for some of the stuff.

There is a local player here and he cuts awesome deals for walk ins. He charges $20 for anything that will fit in his 55 gallon dip barrel. If you end up doing it, I recommend cleaning the hardware up with a sand blaster or wire brush prior to having it plated. The plating process really only removes the loose rust and plating. It does nothing to rust that has caused pitting and also doesn't remove paint if anything has been painted over.
 

Tanro

Proven Member
2,463
83
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
Yeah I will have to see if I can find someone local then. Thanks. Guess I will be looking for some mid 90s mitsus on local pull yards to source some spare hardware.
 

wishihadatalon

Proven Member
2,615
70
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
A few updates for the thread. My wife recently lost her job and has decided to start her own business which means that I have been working tons of hours to save up a bigger nest egg and also money for car parts. That means less time for the car right now, but I fit it in when I can.

Since the last update, I have spoken to Tyler Hassing at Force Engineering about building an engine for the car. The planned engine had Eagle rods and JE pistons, but we didn't really trust the Eagle rods at the power level I want to be at. So now we're planning on a standard compression Wiseco HD piston with Manley Turbo Tuff rods.

Back when the car was running, I was running out of fuel at 30ish psi with a 450 pump and 2150cc injectors. I always kinda thought my alternator was pretty crappy and wasn't keeping up (based on log data), but once I tore into the car a bit more I found what I believe is a big problem from a previous fuel pump install. Because the car is from the great white north, sometimes it is very difficult to break the fuel line loose without twisting stuff. As a result, the feel line was bent down and crimped quite a bit.

Far right line.
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Regardless of what I found or would have found, I've been planning a surge tank install for the car. My plan is to use Fuelab pumps for both a lift pump and also for the main feed. After speaking with them at PRI, I think the main pump is exactly what I want. They claim it has a very low amp draw (17amps max) and quieter use. Since I'm holding onto my pennies to pay for the engine, I decided to get the spare tire tub ready for the surge tank and pump. While pulling apart the interior plastics, I found someone's home.
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It smelled awful :(.

You can see where the mice ended up entered the car from. From what I've seen in pictures, early 2g cars had flat pieces of sheet metal where the jack was held in place. On later 2g cars, there are some strengthening darts in the material around the jack. My assumption is that the jack bouncing around eventually fatigued the material and caused it to fail. As a solution, I decided to cut the material out and weld in a new plate.

Cut out material.
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From the bottom.
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From the top
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New material ready to be welded in.
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Material tig tacked in place. My mig welder is really expensive to buy new drive rolls, tips, and liners for and I only have 0.035" wire. The wire carries too much current for the thin sheetmetal so I decided to just tig weld it in place. It is really hard to reach, but post weld cleanup is gonna be so much easier.
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With the surge tank and pump being inside the car, it needs to be sealed off from the passenger compartment. I want the car to appear stock on the inside, so I decided to do a flush mount panel that will go under the standard wood floor panel in the back.

This is the start of the panel. I plan on making an access door that is held down with dzus fasteners.
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And this is my plan for the access door. The main panel will have an offset flange so the access door is recessed below the surface a little bit.
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And finally, one day a while back, I was thinking about how little room I had between the compressor housing of the turbo and the radiator fan. So I decided to contact Fluidyne about a custom sized radiator that fills out the radiator support. I'll need to figure out a mounting solution for it, but it fits exactly as I had hoped and it gives me an extra 1.5" of room between the turbo and the radiator fan.
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That's it for now.
 

wishihadatalon

Proven Member
2,615
70
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
It's been a little bit since I updated. Progress has been slow, but I am chipping away little by little. I was recently able to finish the brake lines for the whole car. I'm really satisfied with how they turned out. Matching all of the little bends from the factory lines was an absolute nightmare, but they fit together great.
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They will eventually come back off so I can undercoat the entire car, but it's nice to have them in there for fuel line plumbing. My next dilemma will be deciding if I should polish them or not.

This is the natural state of the line.
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And this is after a few minutes on a polishing wheel with no compound.
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With the lines all finished, I was able to start routing my fuel lines. The feed line will be 1/2" aluminum line and the return will be 3/8" aluminum. The flex fuel sensor will be mounted on the firewall between the fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulator. The bracket in the pictures is 3d printed for test fitment and will be machined out of aluminum once everything fits.

Today I tackled the fuel return lines. I was a little worried about the distance between the regulator and the negative terminal on the battery.
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But after playing around a bit, I was able to make a bend very close to the flare on the line. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Once the engine and transmission go back in, I'll explore the idea of making a different battery tray to lower it a bit more.
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That's it for now. Next up I'll be tackling the back section of the car for the fuel lines and then building my surge tank and sorting the layout of the pump and surge tank. Also with any luck, I'll have my engine back from Force Engineering next weekend!
 

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wishihadatalon

Proven Member
2,615
70
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Wow, I can't believe it has almost been a year. I've been slowly chipping away at the car, but life for sure gets in the way. Either way, I'm quite motivated as of late because spring is right around the corner. I stripped the entire under side of the car, removed all undercoating, wire wheeled it all and then applied a rubberized undercoating like the front wheel wells. This project took me several months because honestly, it was awful and I didn't enjoy doing it at all. I'm super happy with the results though and now I can focus on assembly.

This is just one side of the factory undercoating.
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Here are the results.
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wishihadatalon

Proven Member
2,615
70
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Another project that I was working on and finally completed was my fuel system. I'm using a Fuelab lift pump, Fuelab filters, and a Fuelab H/E fuel pump. They claim it is a very efficient pump drawing just 9A at full load. We'll see how it works.

First I modified the fuel pump hanger to accept -6AN fittings. I don't really like the sharp 90 fittings, so I found a way to use softer bends to get the desired results. I also switched to an Evo siphon which uses hose clamps on both sides and makes for an easier install.
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wishihadatalon

Proven Member
2,615
70
Aug 18, 2002
Grand Rapids, Michigan
For the surge tank, I designed a plate and had it plasma cut at the local steel supply and then put in stainless rivnuts for mounting. I had my buddy machine the tops and bottoms and parted the body of the tank in my lathe. Then to make sure the fittings were where they needed to be, I 3d printed drill/tack weld fixtures.

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And the final result
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