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Why do I see rally 1gs eclipses and no rally 2gs eclipses?

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schoolisbad1

Probationary Member
1
0
Oct 18, 2006
Los Gatos, California
Some time I would like to make a tarmac/ruffer roads rally styled car. Definitally get awd. I dont really like the looks of the 1gs but they seem to be a better rally car?, yet I cant find out why? Do they have longer travel suspension? or is the awd platform better? Any info would be great. I dont think I have ever seen or heard of a 2g rally car and im guessing theres a reason, or maybe just cause the 1gs are usually cheaper..?

ha well hope that makes sense thanks
Matt
 
One of the biggest reasons is because the 2g has the split damper fork on the front suspension with the axel going thru it. This fork (which is less than half the thickness of the 1g counterpart strut setup) makes it too weak to withstand the pounding of performance rallying and fails (bends up or breaks) usually before even one stage is completed (it makes street driving smooth and responsive however). And to replace it with a rally strut means the transaxel/engine would have to be moved and the whole suspension altered/re-designed. And of course you always have the 2g crankwalk so you already have to put a 6 bolt in anyway....
 
While I don't agree with the "7 bolt will crankwalk" theory, I will definitely agree that the front suspension setup has a lot to be desired.........especially the LCA/lateral arm setup on the bottom.

You could always fab up a "beefier" damper fork that wouldn't be as susceptible to bending/breaking.
 
1g's (and their parts) are cheaper and easier to find.

2g's are heavier.

most people wouldn't feel as guilty wrapping a 1g around a tree.

just my opinion.
 
luv2rallye said:
One of the biggest reasons is because the 2g has the split damper fork on the front suspension with the axel going thru it. This fork (which is less than half the thickness of the 1g counterpart strut setup) makes it too weak to withstand the pounding of performance rallying and fails (bends up or breaks) usually before even one stage is completed (it makes street driving smooth and responsive however). And to replace it with a rally strut means the transaxel/engine would have to be moved and the whole suspension altered/re-designed. And of course you always have the 2g crankwalk so you already have to put a 6 bolt in anyway....

I also dont agree with you need a 6 bolt in a 2g. My buddy is putting a 7 bolt 2.3 in his GVR-4 that has an original 6 bolt. The 6 bolt stroker crank has a weak spot and is prone to breaking at high rpm. The 7 bolt is stronger but yes can have crank walk. You can rev higher more safely with the 7 bolt stroker. I think less than 30% of 7 bolts every where reported to walk so its not that bad. Plus my mechanic gives a lifetime warranty against crank walk on his 7 bolt strokers, which is pretty much all he builds now.
 
You could always fab up a "beefier" damper fork that wouldn't be as susceptible to bending/breaking.



I agree. And it also depends on what kind of material that is used, and what process it went through to be manufactured.


luv2rallye, do you know what kind of material the OEM fork is made out of?
 
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