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White Smoke / Car Is Smoking White [Merged 7-9]

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Apeximprt2nr

15+ Year Contributor
620
5
Apr 20, 2005
Northern, New_Jersey
Alright guys, well I just finished my 14B install in my 95 GSX. All is well besides some minor oil leaks on the return line and the SS feed line at the filter housing. There was also a VERY minor coolant leak from the front banjo bolt on the turbo. I tightened it a tad and I think i went away. Now the turbo is spooling really late because I think there may be a leak before the turbo.
Now on to the problems.

1. The turbo does not smoke at all besides at WOT sometimes it blows out whiteish grey smoke. I'm trying to think of where it could be burning coolant. It never did this before the turbo install.

2. There was some white smoke the past 2 days at the manifold. I'm thinking its the shitload of PB Blaster that I sprayed all over the car but I'm not sure.

3. There's a smell coming from my engine that I can smell if I pop my hood and it becomes more noticeable when I'm driving and really get on it. It smells like burning plastic sort of, with a mix of burning rubber. The lower heat shield is not on the car because it's a pain to get on and I haven't put it back on because I haven't had time. Nothing is touching anything hot so I 'm confused...The only possible thing is maybe I pout on a new 4 ply exhaust mani. gasket as well as antiseize on most of the bolts and the turbo-mani. bolts.

Any help? Thanks.
 
Blue oil smoke is close to white with a light blue tint.

With you saying that it happens after long idle times, then goes away when you drive, that is classic worn out valve stem seals.

Bad turbo, bad rings, would be blue smoke all the time.

A blown HG leaking coolant would smoke all the time, or untill the engine burns all the coolant.
 
The owner says that he doesn't notice it between oil changes but I think that its probably valve stem seals. How much is that tipically to replace? And how much is the car worth? Once again completely stock 97 gst, bad valve stem seals, and needs a paint job badly.
 
The price will vary on the valve stem seals, are you going to change them on the car or have a shop do it?
Or is the head going to be pulled?
 
Continued from the last time..

Heres a recap.

1. Bought car, with a rod shot through block..
2. Bought long block and dropt into the car.
3. Longblock was boiling water and white smoke.
4. Replaced headgasket and headbolts
5. Still boiled water and white smoke.
6. Did a compression Test, 175 175 175 60
7. Replaced head with a fully machined head new valves, springs, rockers, cams, lifters , and arp head studs
8. Still boiled water and lots of white smoke..
9. Put new thermostat and rad cap on..

The car doesn't start to smoke until the car is at normal operating temperature.. Then it starts smoking, the car still doesn't overheat.. i let her run for 25 minutes and fans kick on.

WTF can be going on guys.. =/
 
What headgasket did you use and was the block/head properly prepped for the gasket? Not all shops mill/resurface heads or block decks the same.
 
This is the 2nd head gasket i have used, its a fel pro one..

Heres the head gasket i used..
http://www.TheDSMGraveyard.com/product_p/pf fel9627pt.htm

With Arp headstuds.. the machine shop resurfaced and replaced everything in the head.

Idk where to go from here..

I posted two videos at the bottom

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what did you use to resurface the block.. a composite gasket isnt the best to use unless its a freshly machined block and head. it looks like you used sandpaper on the block by the sanding patterns.
 
we used a little air tool with micro pads or some sort.. my buddy does it on all his race engines..

That might be very well your problem. Simply using a new razor blade straight up and down works. Using an air tool is too risky and will cause low spots on the deck if not done 100% even.
 
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That might be very well your problem. Simply using a new razor blade straight up and down works. Using an air tool is too risky and will cause low spots on the deck if not done 100% even.

i don't believe this is the cause of it to be honest with you especially when i used a machinists edge and the block was in the clearance.. we did this to polish it because it needed it ..
 
That might be very well your problem. Simply using a new razor blade straight up and down works. Using an air tool is too risky and will cause low spots on the deck if not done 100% even.

Dude. No.

A composite head is the best to use when the mating surfaces aren't perfectly machined to a mirror finish.

You must have gotten mixed up. The MLS(Multi Layer Steel) head gasket is only to be used on a motor with a decked block and milled cylinder head.

As for the OP. If the block was in spec and the head was milled prior to head gasket installation. You might be looking at a cracked block. I don't mean to jump to conclusions, but if you see no signs of the head gasket leaking pressure to a coolant journal, it could very well be possible.
 
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with a composite gasket all it takes is a hairline scratch to cause a compression leak and just by looking at the pictures you put up its pretty obvious there are some on what i would assume is the leaky cylinder. all those scratches around dowel pin on the number 4 head bolt are what lead me to this conclusion. they even go right into the cooling jacket from the cylinder. your best bet is to get a multilayer gasket and be done with it.
 
with a composite gasket all it takes is a hairline scratch to cause a compression leak and just by looking at the pictures you put up its pretty obvious there are some on what i would assume is the leaky cylinder. all those scratches around dowel pin on the number 4 head bolt are what lead me to this conclusion. they even go right into the cooling jacket from the cylinder. your best bet is to get a multilayer gasket and be done with it.

:banghead: Please shut up. You don't know what you're talking about. Go do some research on the difference between an mls and composite.

Blown head gasket... Anytime your cooling system is pressurizing or "boiling" it's the head gasket

Oh really? So a leaking radiator cap won't cause it to boil? And a cracked block/head won't? Did you even read his thread?
 
with a composite gasket all it takes is a hairline scratch to cause a compression leak and just by looking at the pictures you put up its pretty obvious there are some on what i would assume is the leaky cylinder. all those scratches around dowel pin on the number 4 head bolt are what lead me to this conclusion. they even go right into the cooling jacket from the cylinder. your best bet is to get a multilayer gasket and be done with it.

If that was the problem an MLS headgasket would only give him more problems. Copper spray on a composite gasket would be more than enough for the methods he used to clean his mating surfaces.
 
See this is why i hate using this site sometimes.. All this mis-information is making my head explode. Seriously i am trying to figure out what is going wrong with my car and people are throwing me into different directions..

The head was at the machine shop and got the "works" everything was done that needed to be done.
We had the block polished with our tools, and checked the clearance and it was good. We then put the fel pro head gasket on the block with the arp head studs. Followed the correct stud pattern and torque specs with the brand new head perfectly seated.

i am just saying the top end can't be messed up. it just can't be..
And to EVERYONE saying a blown head gasket, don't be quick to saying that considered this is the 3rd head gasket.. so i don't think it is that to be honest.. i really don't.

The car has FULL POWER, and runs fine, and doesn't overheat in the 25 minutes of driving and idle that i did today..

WHAT ARE THE POSSIBILITIES.. and if you add your .02 you better not be uneducated and making $hit up, it's annoying.
 
You sure that white smoke is antifreeze? Did you waft it and sniff for maple syrup?

The best part is that its not overheating ROFL. Both radiator hoses getting hot? Sucky antifreeze?
 
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