Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

[Ludachris]

Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.

 

[Ams2gJim]

oh sorry if my "you want a 400hp daily driver" question came out suggesting 400hp daily driver is a strange thing. i didnt mean that at all. i just meant it to restate the threat topic. sorry for the confusion.

a evo16g has done 400hp but i think it was sbr that was doing it, i forget the mods but it was pretty worked up. its alot easier to get a big turbo and barely use it to get high numbers, then to get a little turbo and having it maxxed out and blowing hot air.

You could make 400 whp but thats ringing it dry. You could make the same hp on a bigger turbo with less stress on the motor. Jim

 

[BlackbirdOfPrey]

oh sorry if my "you want a 400hp daily driver" question came out suggesting 400hp daily driver is a strange thing. i didnt mean that at all. i just meant it to restate the threat topic. sorry for the confusion.

a evo16g has done 400hp but i think it was sbr that was doing it, i forget the mods but it was pretty worked up. its alot easier to get a big turbo and barely use it to get high numbers, then to get a little turbo and having it maxxed out and blowing hot air.

You would probably save money getting a larger turbo and making the same power, than spending all the extra needed to max out a 16g.

 

[herostar]

The 16g variants (even EVO) will be too small for what you're looking for. I'd look into something that flows at least 50 lb/min of air.

 

[bob123131]

Ok geting S-afc and everythign and was planning on a E316G just becasue i know im not spending money on lsd. Is there any other turbos i can get without having huge traction problems. Maybe im worng but im afraid if i go over like 350 i will jsut spin. Anyone with alot of experience with GST plz give opnion.

 

[kr0n0z]

If you plan on making any sort of power with a FWD your going to spin regardless of what turbo you use . With the stock 14b @18PSI I was spinning tires almost through 3rd on the street.

 

[andymoraitis]

The E316G will likely be your friend due to boost creep issues which act like traction control. Set the MBC to 17 and let it creep to 20 and you'll see what I mean. I may have an AWD, but I have plenty of experience with FWD and can tell you that you can create spin long before you cross the 350 WHP mark. I'd really consider an LSD insert if you want to eliminate torque steer and get the most out of the turbo.

Hope that helps,

Andy

 

[Talesin]

Or if you have cash, you could go for one of those two-level MBCs. Set it low for launch, and pop it to high when you hit second. Won't eliminate wheelspin, but it could reduce it a good bit with enough trial and error.

 

[Steve93Talon]

Or if you have cash, you could go for one of those two-level MBCs. Set it low for launch, and pop it to high when you hit second. Won't eliminate wheelspin, but it could reduce it a good bit with enough trial and error.

We ran a dejon 3 stage MBC, and later an AVC-R, set for like 10-12psi in 1st, 15 in 2nd, and 19 in 3rd+. On retreads, the car still spun like a mofo. This was with a B16G and 264s with an LSD. Slicks are your friend if you're making any more power than stock on a FWD.

 

[gstspyda97]

so last night my 14b seized on me, but everything was in good condition but he wheel will not spin, etc most likly due to a hot shut down or oil starvation due to a small oil leak on the oil feed line, which i ordered a new line and bolts on Wednesday and im still waiting for them but now im just ordering a bigger turbo my question is very simple...

EVO3 B16g with PORT WORK AND 34MM Flapper from Extremepsi.com

or

18g CHRA from forcedperformance that would be used with a 6CM turbine housing ported to 7cm

Mods in profile also include a 3" exhaust to that
quick answer please im looking to spend the money tonight i need my car running!!! i have everything to install a TDO5H

THANX GUYS

alex

 

[eclipsegst3131]

personally, i would go evo3 16g, only because that's what i'm getting in about 2 weeks. but that's just my 2 cents.

 

[Talesin]

All depends on your goals for the car. The 18g may spool a bit slower, but it should be able to handle a higher boost setting without putting as much stress on the turbo. Personally, I'd go with the 18g, but that's only because I've already got the B16g on mine.

 

[gstspyda97]

personally, i would go evo3 16g, only because that's what i'm getting in about 2 weeks. but that's just my 2 cents.

can i use the stock 2g Manifold and stock 2g O2 Housing on this turbo
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16296&cat=426&page=1


this is the other one i was thinking bout getting
http://linux.forcedperformance.net/...Product_Code=NTDSM18G5HwoTH&Category_Code=DSM

Alex

 

[98spydert]

Evo16G will spool faster and flow within a couple lbs/min of the 18G. I think the 18G is kind of obsolete now but that's just my opinion.

 

[gstspyda97]

yea ive heard that a coupld of times spyderT, so i think im just going to order a EVO316g from Extreme get it ported with the 34mm flapper and some gaskets...

thanx guys for all the quick responses...ill post back up when i get everything bolted on and the 500 mile break in

alex

 

[sweet97]

Alex I would have gotten the 18G because if itisobsolete so is the 20G. Be sure the EVO is a MHI and not the cheap asian knockoff. With the big flapper it sounds like the knockoff and the price reflects that. A MHI EVO woild be $620. plus porting most likely,have notpriced them since I bought a EVO. Mark

 

[gstspyda97]

Alex I would have gotten the 18G because if itisobsolete so is the 20G. Be sure the EVO is a MHI and not the cheap asian knockoff. With the big flapper it sounds like the knockoff and the price reflects that. A MHI EVO woild be $620. plus porting most likely,have notpriced them since I bought a EVO. Mark

hey mark, yea i bought the MHI from Extremepsi.com, it was 569 plus 124 for porting and the larger flapper and then another 20 for gaskets, i saw the GT from Turbochargers.com and said , i also deleted the CHRA 18g out of the picutre b/c i would still have been using a 6cm turbine housing(yea quicker spool, but less top end) and an whole 18g would have been over 725 with porting, so i figured i save my self a little money i mean i dont plan on going over 20-22 LBS ne how cause its my DD and the 18g only flow 50 CFM's more than the Evo 3, im positive ill be happy with my purchase....

btw extremepsi carries the MHI and not the GT version correct????

alex


btw nice title change

 

[Mitsu725]

I am building a 6-bolt so i have some choices, the most popular are the mitsu 20G, or i heard someone say a 25G>>i never heard of that or a turbonetics, T3/T4, 60-1 turbo?? Need some answers ASAP please, thanx. OO on the engine in going with a full build so will the engine spool this turbo, i need specs please...THanx.

 

[Fattie92]

Need alot more detials then that! What are your power goals? What internals are you going to use? Stroker? What is the car going to be used for? All of these need to be answered first.

 

[Game Over]

Need alot more detials then that! What are your power goals? What internals are you going to use? Stroker? What is the car going to be used for? All of these need to be answered first.

I second that, you gave us the wrong details.

 

[Burnett03]

these turbo questions every day seriously get old

 

[gsxebelt]

Hey guys,
This is my first time writing on a forum so I'm not really sure if what I am doing is right or not. My car, a 98 GSX just had problems with crank-walk and grenaded the engine. The car had been sitting for the past 4 months as I saved up enough to get it fixed. Just today when I went to the shop, the mechanic mentioned that the turbo outlet was loose and seemed like it was time to replace it. I haven't had any major improvements to the car, just exhaust and intake, and wondered what would be the best bet in buying a new turbo? If anyone can help me out with some information then I would appreciate it very much. Thanks in advance.

-Ryan

 

[Bostedquest]

Hey guys,
the mechanic mentioned that the turbo outlet was loose and seemed like it was time to replace it.
-Ryan

Turbo outlet, W T F is that?
and how does it get loose?
There is a O2 housing, Turbine section, center section and compressor housing.
Oh yeah those damn T25's also have that bolt on outlet elbow... Maybe he meant that, but that would lead to massive air leaks, again VERY NOTICABLE...

If the turbine section was loose, congrats the turbo is thrashed. But that would entail massive grinding noises and heavy damage to the turbine blades/shaft as it would be bent. That would also be accopanied by the compressor blade making funky noises, and throwing metal shavings like it's the Fourth of July.

Anyway, if you are looking to upgrade, what exactly are you looking to do with the car? What are you building it for?
That determines what turbo you should get.

 

[DGajre777]

Do you just want to replace the shot turbo? Do you want something like the EVOIII16G turbo and spend $2000 for parts in supporting mods? Do you plan on running stock boost? race on tracks? street race? - illegal and don't recommend it.

What turbo you should get really depends on your goals and what you want to do with it.

Check out www.forcedperformance.com. They do turbocharger repairs. This is from their website:

From time to time, turbochargers will fail, or become less effective with age. At Forced Performance, we rebuild many different types of turbos, both OEM and aftermarket, and we can restore new life to that beat up hair dryer. When you send your turbo to us for service, we will thoroughly examine, diagnose, and provide a repair estimate free of charge.

A typical turbo rebuild is $345.00, and involves the following steps:

Complete disassembly and inspection - turbos we receive are identified, marked, and torn down to component level. Each part is inspected for wear and/or damage, and cause of failure is identified.
Cleaning and sandblasting - Turbine and compressor housings, bearing housing, and turbine wheel are sandblasted and refinished. If your housings are specially coated, we clean them with solvents to avoid damage to the coating. The bearing housing is flushed with solvent and honed, and the turbine shaft is polished to a mirror finish.

Blueprinting - Journal bearing bores are measured for oil clearance. All reusable items are checked against specification.

Reassembly - Turbo is reassembled with new journal and thrust bearings, o-rings, piston rings, fasteners, thrust collars, and seal plates.

Balancing - Turbos are dynamically spin balanced as a complete assembly to less than half the manufacturers allowable limit.

If your turbo requires replacement parts due to excessive wear or damage, that price can go up depending on the extent of the damage. Also, while having your turbo rebuilt, inquire about the many upgrade possibilities available for most turbos.

If you have questions about getting your turbocharger diagnosed or repaired, drop us a line at [email protected]

If you don't want to repair your turbo and want to buy a new one, the FP Big28 Turbo is an option. Here's the link: http://linux.forcedperformance.net/...uct_Code=NTDSMFPBIG28&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo

And, how did you 'fix' your crankwalk? Please don't say that you rebuilt the same motor

 

[turboguy25]

Iam also curious to how the crank walk was fixed, because personally I build at least one DSM engine a month as a part time job, and I never rebuild a crank walked motor. I had a guy bring me a 97 eclipse that he just bought from a dealership that the dealership just rebuilt, crankwalked in two months. So I built a 6 bolt for him , dealership wouldnt warrany anything.

 

[gsxebelt]

The crank walk wasn't fixed... it is a new/used engine with about 25K miles on it. I haven't got the car back yet but the mechanic said that turbo was drivable, but it was going to fail sooner then later. it was the bolt-on elbow that was loose. ( i wasn't sure what to call it, Ive had the car for not even a year yet and still getting adjusted to turbos.)

I just want my car to be faster on the street, but i don't plan on buying a bunch of mods for the engine. Maybe the next bigger turbo other then stock would be right. and do i need to buy anything else for the engine if i bought the next bigger turbo? and i do plan on just running stock boost. basically i would like something reasonably priced that is stronger then stock, yet bolt-on without major support parts. I hope this helps and makes sense.