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dsm

20+ Year Contributor
194
0
Jun 11, 2002
Tampa
i was looking for some answers in the search but really didnt find the answer to my question. actually i found alot of contridictions. well im looking to run 17x7.5 offset 35 with 225/45 tires. my local shop said i shouldnt have any problems running that on my car. what do u guys think?
 
The shop is right. No problem at all aside from the customary fender rolling with lowered suspension.
 
wret said:
The shop is right. No problem at all aside from the customary fender rolling with lowered suspension.

i assume this would have to be done with a bat, which some ppl say to do to it. is it a pain in the ass or pretty easy to roll them back?
 
I've rolled my fenders with a bat its pretty easy just take your time and don't try and force it too much. Oh and the back fenders will screw up your bat so don't use one that you like, Oh and make sure its a wood bat LOL.

I'm running 18x7.5 with 225/40 and a +41mm offset and it works fine but it did have to roll the fenders.

The stock offset is +46 so your bringing them in 11mm(12.7mm is a half inch) your track width will increase by 3.5mm with the 7.5 wide rim.

i increased my track width by 15.5mm

so you shouldn't have any problems however they say to stay within 20% of the stock offset so that would be a min of +36.6mm to a max of +55.4mm
 
any problems with 17X8, 35 offset, 245 45 17's? Or should I go with a 40 offset?

Also could i fit a bigger tire on this rim?
 
14.5 drift said:
any problems with 17X8, 35 offset, 245 45 17's? Or should I go with a 40 offset?

Also could i fit a bigger wheel on this rim?

yes i would think you would have rubbing issues with that setup. you are increasing your tire diameter by almost 3/4 of an inch and going 30mm wider.

with the +35 your bringing your tire in 11mm plus the 15mm tire is a little over an inch. so go measure your clearance between your tires and the knuckle and see how much clearance you have. of course you will need to roll your fenders even more.

I know with my setup i can't even put my pinky inbetween the tire and the knuckle.
 
any problems with 17X8, 35 offset, 245 45 17's? Or should I go with a 40 offset?

Yes, go with 40 offset, at least with a 2G. Go for 245/40/17 tires. You don't really want to go much wider than 245 on an 8" wide wheel. 245s fill up the wheel well pretty well anyway. Pretty well flush with the fender, and pretty close to the knuckle.
 
I'm scared of the 40's, my mom has 45's on her s2k and they rattle my teeth pretty good. I think I want to stick with the 45's. Wut about 235/45?
 
The 40 is the aspect RATIO. It is dependant on the width of the tire (sidewall height divided by width). A 245/40/17 will have about the same sidewall height as a 225/45/17. The 235/45/17 will work, but it's a bit taller than the 245/40 or 225/45, and may require a lower offset to avoid hitting the knuckle, which may give you more fender clearance problems. If your main concern is ride comfort, than go with a skinnier wheel like 7.5. That will make the tires sit more like this /_\ giving you more sidewall flex and a cushier ride.

I have a 245 on an 8.5" wheel, and I think the ride is fine.
 
14.5 drift said:
I'm scared of the 40's, my mom has 45's on her s2k and they rattle my teeth pretty good. I think I want to stick with the 45's. Wut about 235/45?

235/45/17 should fit fine with +40mm offset. You don't need a lot of space between the tire and the knuckle, but it should be more than zero. I used to repeat the 4mm recomendation I read somewhere until I really thought about it. Why would one need 4mm for tire flex on the top side of the tire?
 
I have 40mm offset 17x8s on my 98 AWD, with 245/40 MXs. They clear with rolled rear fenders, but with not much to spare on the outside.

I have also run 245/45s on the same wheels, it all depends on the exact physical dimensions of the tyre itself, as there is a large variance across brands; if it's a small 245/45 it will fit fine, but if it's a large 245/45 - like the Azenis for example - it's never going to fit without serious arch bending.

Also critical is how far your suspension compresses at full bump.

Charles
 
Charles- Will a 245/45/17 Azenis on a 40mm offset wheel not clear the knuckle, the fender or both? Also, what year did you try this on?

I know a guy locally who switched from a 97 to a 95. He swapped over his 17X8 35mm offset with 235/45 tires and had some fitment issues. He ended up swaping over the control arms and maybe some other suspension components to from the 97 to the 95 to get them to fit.

I also read on this board, a guy who had 245/45 Azenis on his 97 or 98 successfully with a 38mm offset?
 
hmmmm, jim do you have pics close up of your wheels, how is the fitment with the 8.5 as I am not apposed to going bigger with the wheel.
 
My 245/40 MX setup fits my early 95 (vented rear rotor) and my 98. Close, but no rubbing.

245/45 Azenis are .5"+ wider across the tread and an inch taller - by my measurements that has the tyre hitting the upright as it curves over.


jim97gst said:
Charles- Will a 245/45/17 Azenis on a 40mm offset wheel not clear the knuckle, the fender or both? Also, what year did you try this on?

I know a guy locally who switched from a 97 to a 95. He swapped over his 17X8 35mm offset with 235/45 tires and had some fitment issues. He ended up swaping over the control arms and maybe some other suspension components to from the 97 to the 95 to get them to fit.

I also read on this board, a guy who had 245/45 Azenis on his 97 or 98 successfully with a 38mm offset?
 
I have Kumho MXs on a 17x8 +40 wheel, just like ACM. I do not believe that there is even 3mm to spare, so you'd have to get the +35s (assuming that you don't get spacers), but a +35 wheel will cause the tire to hit the fender lip, even if it is rolled. In other words, when we suggest a +40 offset for 245s, we really mean a +40.

Note, again, that when you are cutting it this close, the specifics of the tire (or tyre, as ACM would write) play a huge role. So, YMMV.

- Jtoby
 
hmmmm, jim do you have pics close up of your wheels, how is the fitment with the 8.5 as I am not apposed to going bigger with the wheel.

Fitment is great, assuming you don't mind messing with the fenders. I am running about 1.5 deg of camber in the rear. I completely cut off the rear inner fender lips, which is kind of a controversial thing to do. At least 3 body shop guys told me not to do it, as well as some people on this board. But I did it anyway and haven't had any problems. I started to do the "tab" method of cutting into the fender lip every few inches to make it easier to bend back the metal. The first tab I cut and bent back caused the two pieces of metal to separate, which is the whole reason I was told not to cut it out.

Anyway, you probably should roll the fenders instead. I was scared of messing up the paint on the fenders, but many others have successfully done it without damaging paint.

I will take some pics for you.

I do not believe that there is even 3mm to spare

Is it a totally crackhead idea to grind away some of the metal on the upright to gain a few milimeters if you wanted to run a higher offset, or taller tires (i.e. 245/45 Azenis). Are my methods of modification too "Mad Max"?
 
Well, if you've already sliced out the fender lip, I don't see any reason why you shouldn't weaken the knuckle ... it's not like that part is the first thing that's going to break in a hard corner. ;)

- Jtoby
 
im sure its been ansered before and sry for takin ur thread to ask this, but i really need to know. what is the stock lug pattern for a 91 talon tsi awd? and stock tire size and off set? i have a set of 17x7 rims here with 5x114 lug pattern, i am just curious if they will fit before i take them down and get tires on them and stuff. thanks a lot.

joe
 
I hope you welded those lips back together !!!

You've just sawn your way through a critical stress-bearing seam on the car - and Lord knows, if you have a sunroof the shell's already quite weak.

With this mod the term "about 1.5* camber" is quite accurate - it probably change half a degree or so as you load the car laterally.


There's a reason those bodyshops told you to leave it alone...As I said, I hope you welded those seams back together. If you did not, you will need to get the car on a frame jig where the shell can be twisted back into shape, then have the shop weld those seams back up before releasing the chains.


Failing this, then as Jt said, grind away - it's academic at this point.

Charles


jim97gst said:
Fitment is great, assuming you don't mind messing with the fenders. I am running about 1.5 deg of camber in the rear. I completely cut off the rear inner fender lips, which is kind of a controversial thing to do. At least 3 body shop guys told me not to do it, as well as some people on this board. But I did it anyway and haven't had any problems. I started to do the "tab" method of cutting into the fender lip every few inches to make it easier to bend back the metal. The first tab I cut and bent back caused the two pieces of metal to separate, which is the whole reason I was told not to cut it out.

Anyway, you probably should roll the fenders instead. I was scared of messing up the paint on the fenders, but many others have successfully done it without damaging paint.

I will take some pics for you.



Is it a totally crackhead idea to grind away some of the metal on the upright to gain a few milimeters if you wanted to run a higher offset, or taller tires (i.e. 245/45 Azenis). Are my methods of modification too "Mad Max"?
 
14.5 drift- Here is a picture for you. This picture makes it look like the tire is really far away from the fender. I don't know why. It's about 2 fingers.

showphoto.php


Charles- No, I haven't welded the lips back together. I don't want to burn the paint and have to have it repainted. I will get them welded back together if the car ever needs painted.

The only ill effect the body shops told me I would have is that the body might get wavey around the fender, which it hasn't. It's not cut out completely. Just the top part where it might have rubbed. One of the shops is who cut it after I said I would take my chances. 2 of them wanted to do the tab method, which as I said, separated the lip anyway. It's been cut for almost a year now. I have not noticed any creaking or moaning from that part of the car, and my tire wear is fine. I autocross monthly, and I think the car handles quite nicely. I've had a local who went to Solo II nationals drive my car, and he said he thought the car was set up well. Of course, I'm FWD, so the rears aren't doing as much work as you AWD guys.

I know another local guy who has had his completely cut out for longer than me, and he hasn't had any problems either. He used a saw at AGP's shop to do it himself. He's building a drag monster right now, so when it gets on the road I guess we'll see if the missing lip has any problems with hard AWD launches.

You guys have got me kinda scared now, but I don't think it is nearly as serious as you guys make it out to be. I guess I should get the frame measured to see if it's all out of whack as you guys seem to think it will be. Or just an alignment should tell me if I've seriously messed things up, right?
 
No response?? You just told me I had to stretch my car with chains and get it welded so the rear of my car wouldn't fall apart. Which would then require me to get an expensive paint job for the car to look decent.

I responded with some points. Do you still take the stand that this is that serious?

Something else I was thinking about: as I mentioned earlier, cutting a tab in the lip and bending it back caused the lip to separate. I would think this would have to happen to some degree even if you didn't cut the tabs, possibly causing a structual integrity problem to some degree. Does the lip on your rolled fender look like the seam is damaged at all?
 
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