2G Wheel pushed back

[rough]

So to make a long story short, I went off roading in my GST and it just my luck, a manhole setup is sticking out 8 inches in this grass median. I have a light pole to my left, and a tree to the right :/ I was doing about 20 when I entered the grass, turning wasn't much of an option, so I aimed strait and nailed it, to bad this manhole setup just so happened to catch my passenger side rims.

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Back rim was lightly dented and popped the brand new tire at the side wall. Took a few minutes for it to go flat. The front passenger took the biggest hit. Dented the rim on both side rendering it unusable.

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SOoo 1400$ later, new rims, and nice tires I realized my passenger front is rubbing on my side skirt when test turning the wheel fit.

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I was about 1 minute away from home, so I drove it home, felt ok at first, then I got to 15-20 and it felt grinding, possibly wheel bearing? When I turned left or right the noise and feeling went away.
Drivers side seems fine, passenger's side front as you can tell is pretty bad. Rear passenger has no immediate damage visible, alignment will tell for sure.


So now I would love to pick everyone's brain!
I just ordered...
Extreme PSI Front Passenger Knuckle Kit 95-99.
Includes Knuckle, compression arm, and straight arm (also known as control arm)
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22826

Moog Hub Assemblies Front Wheel Hub Assembly "got for 60$ with promo code TRT41" saved me 40$
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/moog-hub-assemblies-front-wheel-hub-assembly-513157/18440121-P


Here is some shots from under.

 

[rough]

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[DOUBLEPOST=1414638914][/DOUBLEPOST]So I'm curious if you guys think this will fix my issue?

I'm noticing some grease coming out from the axle, could the axle be damage from this?
I just moved it forward and back in my driveway, and it felt fine with a pull to the right.

Any thoughts appreciated!!

 

[jjw205]

Your lower compression arm (curved one) is most likely bent.

I bought a used one, and installed it, not knowing it was bent. My wheel sat just like yours does, almost touching the side skirt. Replaced it with a different one, and it was perfect.

But in your case, replacing all 3 of those parts won't hurt, looks like you hit that pretty hard. It's hard to tell by eye sometimes when things are bent.

 

[rough]

That's good news to my ear, I figured there would be flat spots in the bearings as well from the impact. I'm soo hoping that lca will be my savior!
extreme psi will have it here Friday, going to be stalking that ups delivery!

 

[darknezz7]

thats not just "a little grease"

replace the axle while you are there or be sorry very soon.

thats a great deal on those parts from extreme psi!

looks like the dust shield is rusted out so you might as well get a decent one of those in there too.

you chose the path of least damage going between the light and tree for sure

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

shows that driveing not on the road can suck sometimes

 

[rough]

I can't say I've seen an axle leak like that! I can see some of the grease on the ground too:/
Time to order a new axle now, and search for a dust shield that should be fun!

Yea not driving on the road can really suck I'm just glad it didn't rip my bumper off or catch anything under the car like my FMIC piping or ballpoints, as I"m sure the damage would have been more severe.

I know I need some shocks too, they don't feel bad driving but my car is sitting pretty high with some gnarly wheel gap [DOUBLEPOST=1414678040][/DOUBLEPOST]Did some research and ToughOne Cv Axle Shaft Assembly got decent remarks by most members on here!

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...cv51578/20871004-P?searchTerm=axle#fragment-1

So I picked up one, normal cost is 70$ I got it for 46$ with Promo Code WD44 which expires 11/1/2014

The dust shields were 70$, so I will be looking elsewhere for those!

 

[rough]

Well update time, wish it was a positive one! After hording a bunch of parts, I went out to start pulling everything apart, and noticed my upper control arm is not sitting pretty.

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So I take a closer look, the sun's out bright, I can see now very well!

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compared to the drivers side

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I then popped the hood and seen this

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compared to the drivers

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So on the passengers side, it seems the front most upper control arm bushing/stud is not perfectly vertical, it's rather slanted, I held my camera perfectly horizontal while taking a few of the first pics.

The rear one is slightly bent, not as bad as the front.

But the body mounting points for each stud/bushing is bent, the front most having the largest crease.

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So now what to do.. The one thing I have no expertise in yet, is body work, and winter is here, this is my daily driver and my second girlfriend haha

I know a shop's going to be more expensive, the body has low miles, but being a northern car, it has rust bad on both towers and on body in front of the rear tires.

When taking off the front bumper the PO had welded a new front on the car, not sure why, but it is what it is, so this is making me lean toward finding a decent shell and swapping everything over.

If I was to have a shop do it, I guess it would be new strut towers welded into place, and I'm thinking that's a grand to a couple... when I can find a shell for a few hundred and do all the work myself.

Any thoughts are welcome! Thanks for reading and giving me your :2cents:

 

[NY 95 TSI AWD]

Certainly could be an opportunity to go awd if you find one that just needs an engine. If it comes down to this becoming too much to fix.

 

[rough]

I'm looking at it as it was only a matter of time till the rust went all they way through.
Looking around is grim, GSX would be ideal, but if the price is right, any 2g without rust i'll go with.

I gotta do something quick, as it's my only car.
I'm sure i could put a huge washer on the most tweaked one and get by for a while, but that's dangerous.

I wonder what a shop would charge to clean it up, weld, and repair it.

Think I might need a new upper control arm and bushings as well just in case :/

Seeing this damage really makes me sad, my 16g will be here monday
Might have to sell it to get a few bucks back for body boo
I'm moving in 1 month too, so luck has pwned me once again!

 

[rough]

Decided to have a shop fix it, just a lot of work invested in the car, I know I need new strut towers because of rust, but this should be a temp fix till I come across a cheap rust free shell.

Taking it to Northwest Frame and Alignment

You got before pictures, I'll post after pictures with how much it ran me as well.
Hopefully no one else will have to go through this, I'm just shocked the uni body bent before breaking the suspension.

 

[Lazyboy]

Maybe you should get a awd if you plan on some more offroading.

 

[rough]

Offroading isn't the problem!! It's engineers who think it's a good idea to put manholes in yards and elevate them I'm 32 and this is the first time I"ve ever hit anything off roading!
If I have to get a shell it will be AWD for sure. I've seen a few for a decent price.

I'm hoping this costs less then 6 or 700, because any more and a shell will be the way I go.
Rather pay for an AWD upgrade then to have something fixed on the body specially with all the rust, but I need my DD right now and the shell was a future plan!!


If looking around was more advantageous for awd shells, i'd already have it


Just got a call from the shop, guy was confused on what he thought I wanted him to do, not a good sign! Ugh!

I want you to bend metal, not replace parts...
"I have the whole new passengers side suspension in the car" just in case
something is tweaked other then the UCA mounts.

 

[darknezz7]

In your situation I would have probably just thrown a new upper control arm on too and done the huge washer idea until you can get another shell. Just keep an eye on it and no more road racing in the meantime .

That is some nasty cancer though

 

[rough]

I have all the parts but that! going to order a new arm right now, is there bushings that sit on top of the arm/tower inside the sleeves?
Guy just called from the shop, said for me to replace my parts, then bring it back as the LCA is throwing it off the most.

Just trying to figure out if there is any more bushings to this upper control arm! I"m thinking there are two on top that the two mounting bolts attach to.

 

[rough]

Before replacing any parts I could not get up to speed very good, it vibrated, shook, wobbled, shuddered like the wheel was going to fall off! Most of it was the cv shaft being destroyed.


Well I have replaced the following on my passengers side front...

Upper control arm
Lower control arm
Lateral control arm
Knuckle
Wheel Bearing
CV axle
Outer Tie Rod end

Before

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I was quoted at 600$ just to install these parts.
Instead of spending that, I bought the tools I needed, 32mm socket, 22mm Box wrench, metric box wrench set 8mm -19mm and a metric socket set with deep wells 8mm - 19mm.

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Took me about 5 hours with no power tools while running into a few snags, IE Axle bolt "trip to lowes" Cutting the dust shield off and reusing it on the new knuckle "old bearing hub was not coming off!!!

So I saved myself about 500$ in Labor, learned a little bit more, and now have more awesome tools!

Note Tough One axles do not come with a cotter pin, make sure you pick one up .99 cents for 20 assorted at walmart in the hardware section.

I bought a 30" x 1" pipe as a breaker bar. 11$ at lowes!

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I'm happy with how the car is for the most part by just replacing parts. I got some clearance back.

I did tighten all the new parts while the car was on it's own 4's level.

My steering does not return to center like it use to. Which I was fearful of. Gotta find out where the binding on the steering is happening.

The UCA endpoint where the main ball joint is, hits the body a little, sure when the shop bends stuff back/welds it that should be fixed, if not i'm going to pound the metal for a little clearance.

I will have to have the upper control arm mounting points fixed, the bend makes the upper control arm touch one of it's balljoints, but I don't think this would cause my wheel to not center.

Here is the UCA mounting points that are tweaked still.

I had to use a rubber mallot to pound the UCA in because the mounting cylinders are no longer perfectly vertical and bent toward the rear of the vehicle.

Here you can see the UCA's rear mounting point bushing is touching the UCA Tweaking the metal should fix this.

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I now have this clearance, tire does not hit when turning the wheel either way! WOohoo! She's driveable again!

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Which is much better! Just gotta get the alignment done, fix the metal, because I just don't trust my car with that weak point there,

 

[rough]

She's back in the shop today for an alignment, upon the alignment I'm still back 1 inch, so they are going to do some of their magic, 450$ for their magic and the alignment, got my fingers cross that all goes well!

 

[rough]

About a year later, the pull and welding has held up to white knuckle daily driving, I now have a GSX body I'm swapping over too. All in all, it was about 2000$ in repairs for hitting this damn manhole! Whole passenger side suspension had to be replaced along with the rims and tires. This could have been worst, but I'm glad it's in the past!

 

[YUPOK]

That car looks like the one from America's best Police Chases I was watching last night. I can't believe you still got away after whacking that manhole.

 

[rough]

The boost helped me escape! Heck you can still drive semi ok on 2 tires! Faster you go, the more it feels like you float Now i'm going to look for this video clip of what you watched last night!