2G Wheel Problems

[kcd]

Hello,
I'm sort of a newbie when it comes to suspension. So here's my problem... Once I hit about 40mph, my right front tire starts shaking violently. It makes a loud thumping sound, and my steering wheel vibrates a little bit. Once it starts shaking, it'll stop once I apply the brakes. After that, it'll start shaking again sporadically (25mph, 30mph, etc.). On a side note, I also started noticing that my right front rim gets VERY hot.

I jacked the car up the other day, and noticed a lot of play with my front wheels. So I replaced the inner and outer tie rods on both sides. This stopped the play. I also tried lubing up the caliper because I figured it was dragging a little.

I was driving to work today, and it started shaking again. Rim still got a little hot.

When I got home, I rotated the tires to see if the sound would move. On a side note, I got all new tires in November.

I just went for a drive, and the shaking continued from the right front tire.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[ThunderChild]

worn wheel bearings?

 

[kcd]

worn wheel bearings?

Some others have suggested that. I just didn't realize a bearing could cause such havoc!

 

[JDT]

If it's getting hot and goes away when braking it's likely a binding caliper.

 

[kcd]

If it's getting hot and goes away when braking it's likely a binding caliper.

So a caliper could cause the shaking?

Thanks for the info!

 

[SrKegler]

Agree, sticking caliper, probably the guide pins.

 

[kcd]

Agree, sticking caliper, probably the guide pins.

New caliper? Or can I try and repair my current ones? (I already tried lubing up the two bolts holding the caliper in place).

 

[JDT]

Calipers are rebuildable, if it's the slider pins then it's a simple fix. Old calipers tend to get debris past the boot and rust starts to build up on the piston and cylinder, causing it to bind.

If I were you, I'd get both new front calipers and a brake fluid flush.

 

[kcd]

Calipers are rebuildable, if it's the slider pins then it's a simple fix. Old calipers tend to get debris past the boot and rust starts to build up on the piston and cylinder, causing it to bind.

If I were you, I'd get both new front calipers and a brake fluid flush.

Thanks guys! And if that doesn't work, I'm assuming I should lean towards replacing the wheel bearing?

 

[SrKegler]

Unsure what bolts you lubed. Need to clean out the guide pin and lock pin holes and lube them up. Probably also have a warped rotor which will cause shaking when you apply the brakes.

As above, best to replace the caliper than go thru the hassel of rebuilding one.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

I would go with sticking caliper if your rim is getting hot. It could be slider pins or damaged piston boots. Rockauto has good options available for rebuild calipers. Centric is my preferred choice. You would still likely have play in the wheel if the wheel bearing was bad enough to cause the brakes to drag. Syl-Glyde works well for lubricating pins and quieting down the pads. I will also be under the assumption that your wheels are torqued correctly. If you find you still have wheel play, replace your wheel bearing. Spray everything with PB Blaster at least a day before attempting this fix. Rent a hub puller to help with this task.

 

[kcd]

Unsure what bolts you lubed. Need to clean out the guide pin and lock pin holes and lube them up. Probably also have a warped rotor which will cause shaking when you apply the brakes.

As above, best to replace the caliper than go thru the hassel of rebuilding one.

Actually, the shaking stops when I apply the brakes. That's why I figured it wasn't a rotor problem.

 

[jimsgsx]

He said his wheel shakes while driving, then smooths out when brakes applied and going slower. I would def. Say wheel bearing man. I had the same exact thing happen on the wifes van. Replaced bearing and back to normal. Takes about a hour for a beginner to replace. Some of those bolts might be oh so horrible to remove, thats my only warning.

 

[kcd]

I would go with sticking caliper if your rim is getting hot. It could be slider pins or damaged piston boots. Rockauto has good options available for rebuild calipers. Centric is my preferred choice. You would still likely have play in the wheel if the wheel bearing was bad enough to cause the brakes to drag. Syl-Glyde works well for lubricating pins and quieting down the pads. I will also be under the assumption that your wheels are torqued correctly.

Yes, they are torqued correctly. I'll go pick up some new calipers tomorrow, and see if that fixes my problem! Thanks for the input, much appreciated!

 

[kcd]

He said his wheel shakes while driving, then smooths out when brakes applied and going slower. I would def. Say wheel bearing man. I had the same exact thing happen on the wifes van. Replaced bearing and back to normal. Takes about a hour for a beginner to replace. Some of those bolts might be oh so horrible to remove, thats my only warning.

Thanks! So it's either the wheel bearing or the caliper. My only problem is, the wheel bearing I was looking at from Advance Auto Parts, which is where I work, don't have the ABS plug. Do I just leave it unplugged?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

As someone already said, replace the calipers and brake fluid. All the heat generated from the stuck caliper wears out the brake fluid. Since you work at the parts store you may as well replace the pads and rotors too. They shouldn't cost you too much and the dragging pads are probably all outgassed and full of voids in the friction material.

 

[kcd]

While replacing the wheel bearing, I ended breaking the caliper (unless it was already busted). But now, my problem seems to be fixed. So it was either my wheel bearing, or the caliper, but I'm not sure which one haha. Thanks for the input guys!