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Wheel bearing, a DIY or no?

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Tha Fella Dylan

10+ Year Contributor
243
0
Jan 9, 2012
Algonac, Michigan
I've never done much when it comes to suspension/steering stuff on my car because I thought it wasn't worth the hassle. I have a bad wheel bearing (front driver side-FWD), I was wondering if this is something I can do with basic tools at home or no?

I've read some write ups on here but no one actually says they did it themselves. I noticed you might need a press? Looking for some insight guys to save a couple bucks. If you have done it, is it worth the money saved? Thanks in advance!
 
I work for a dealership, and watch techs do this at least twice a week. Believe me, unless you have a dedicated press set up for this with a heavy duty hydraulic bottle jack and some very specific size steel tube pieces, I wouldn't try it. Even for some of the techs, its a PITA and several have had the hubs sent out to a machine shop to have it done. Many things can and should be DIY...this is not one of them.

Same here, and holy crap they are a night mare but the one guy at work can get them out the door in half the time, hes a monster at it. :cry: i wish i made time like him, but then again i just started in this business
 
I had to have a shop do mine. I don't know much about it, but they murdered my rotors somehow in the process of getting the assembly apart so I got free raybestos front rotors. Yay! LOL.
 
I havent started to tear down the assembly yet but when I went to go but the hub and everything today the guy at the parts store said I needed a special tool to remove the brake caliper that they didn't sell. I was like WTF? I thought it was just a couple bolts to remove the caliper?
 
I havent started to tear down the assembly yet but when I went to go but the hub and everything today the guy at the parts store said I needed a special tool to remove the brake caliper that they didn't sell. I was like WTF? I thought it was just a couple bolts to remove the caliper?

If by special tool them mean a 17mm socket and a ratchet than yes you need a special tool. There is a reason that most people work at part stores and not at a shop working on cars. DO NOT ever take advise from someone working at a parts store.
 
If by special tool them mean a 17mm socket and a ratchet than yes you need a special tool. There is a reason that most people work at part stores and not at a shop working on cars. DO NOT ever take advise from someone working at a parts store.

Hey now, some of us had to pay our way through college some how. LOL

Some guys at the part stores know what they're talking about, but the vast majority don't have a clue.
 
<br/><br/>http://youtu.be/ALtOp717w6w

I took the wheel off the car to inspect it on my own before I went out and bought the parts. I kinda wanted to double check to make sure it was set in stone. I originally thought it was my wheel bearing but after further examining it, it seems like thats not the case. What do you guys think it might be from watching my video? It looks like it might be my tie rods now. The play is only from left and right and none from top to bottom. I have NO experience in this area. That rubber bushing is completely decayed and looks to be the area of cause.

My symptoms are:
- Tires hum at all speeds but get louder with increased speed.
-Outside of drivers side tire is prematurely wearing at a fast rate.
-Tires have play (as seen in video)
-Sometimes while parked, the top of the tire seems to stick out farther than the bottom.

I'm confused guys, any help would appreciated with this one.
 
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From video I can see that you DEFINATELY need to replace the outer tie rod ends (ball joints). You can get them at any parts store. Replace both sides as the other side will be next in a short time. You can do this yourself with a tie rod separation tool (aka pickle fork) that you can rent or buy. Count the number of turns the old one comes off and put the new one on same number of turns. You should check/adjust toe-in when finished. You can do this yourself. See "front toe adjustment" at http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/338063-my-alignment-page-attached.html#post151879230 along with attached images.

The rotor is held in place by the wheel. So with wheel off it's normal to be able to wiggle it like you're doing.

The outside of tire is wearing due to bad tie rod end.

Top of the tire sticking out farther than the bottom means you have positive camber. Our cars should have slightly negative camber (-0 degrees 20') but if car was lowered that is the normal end result without special camber kits. That is not the cause of tire wear - improper toe-in is (which bad tie rod ends cause). Camber being slightly off is not much of a problem that you have to worry about. If the camber is significantly different from right side to left side it can cause a pulling problem. The vehicle will pull to the side with the more positive camber.
 
Check these 3 videos out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSsC-lWB1lg&list=HL1348804023&feature=mh_lolz
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMbby4UfkMk&feature=bf_next&list=HL1348804023
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so0vL-ZOwY8&feature=bf_next&list=HL1348804023

Play when wiggling it 3 and 9 o'clock is often a tie rod. Play in the 6 and 12 o'clock direction is usually a ball joint. And play in both is a sign of a wheel bearing.

It's never a guarantee that those are the bad parts, but it gives you a place to start looking.
 
No, the main ball joints are on the control arms but the tie rod end has a small ball joint of it's own (it's part of it) which goes through the steering knuckle as you can see in the video.

Note: A pickle fork is actually only needed if the outer tie rod ends don't tap out which they usually will. Do both outers even if only one is bad - the other will follow shortly. Pull cotter pin, remove nut, and pound hard horizontally on the knuckle arm side where the tie rod end post goes through. It should fall out. If it doesn't, put nut on upside down till it is flush with top of post, then tap up hard vertically on post until it releases. If this still doesn't work you'll have to use a small ball joint separator (pickle fork) and hammer. You can get good ends at Napa or any parts store - just don't get the cheapest $10 ones. Loosen locking nut on rod and count how many turns each end is on when you remove it so you can put new ones on same number of turns. This will get you very close. You will only need to check/adjust toe which is something you can do yourself (see post 37). If you're careful and put the new ends on the same turns as the old ends, the toe will be practically the same as it was. The inner ends are much more difficult to do. Fortunately the outers go more often than the inners.
 
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UPDATE:

The wheel bearing ended up being my problem. I replaced the oem tie rods because they were shot. Now my tires sit like ducks feet. The fronts stick out. I've read the alignment threads but they don't mention how to adjust the tie rod ends. This whole thing has angered me. I've read and read, watched YouTube. I'm ready to Craigslist this car. Any input guys?
 
I do my own alignment via the string method, but I use monofilament colored fishing line for strings. If you have them spaced 6 feet apart on 2 pipes (front and back), it is centered when the measurement to the string from the hub is the same on both sides. Make sure they are secured, then make you adjustments. I use a micrometer and measure from the same point on the front and back edge of the wheel where the string passes it when adjusting. I can get it pretty darn accurate this way, but it does take much longer than just going to an alignment shop and paying them to do it.
 
Ahhh. Scotty Kilmer says to loosen the nut and just turn the rod. I guess this might be easier than I thought. Have you done it with the wheel still mounted?
Yes that is how you do it (use the 13mm open end wrench on the rod to turn it after loosening nut). It's near impossible to do while wheel is on the ground unless you have them on turn plates or you are in a pit. Remember the steering wheel will move if you don't do them equally. After you adjust them you must roll the car back and forth (and push the fender down/up) to settle the wheel in the new position before checking again. See front toe adjustment here for a cheap gauge you can make from Home Depot parts: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/338063-my-alignment-page-attached.html#post151879230.
 
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