What year & month does engine serial # NH0001 correspond to?

[XC92]

I need to order some odd parts for my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual's engine and the parts catalog designates engine serial # NH0001 as the cutoff for certain parts. I.e. if the # is lower get this version, if it's higher get the other version. I haven't been able to find the SN of my engine. I understand that it's on the front near the lower part of the oil stick projection, which I can't get to without removing some parts. But if anyone knows what year & month NH0001 correspond to, that would suffice.

Also, an aside, I just found out that my Talon, which I've owned for over 28 years, is even rarer than I thought. It's not only turbo, AWD & manual, already fairly uncommon, but it's both 6-bolt crank AND 4-bolt rear axle, so it was made in that very short timeframe where they didn't quite yet switch over to a 7 bolt crank but did switch over to a 4-bolt rear axle. How many of these unicorns could they have made? My car's build date is stamped May 1992. It also has ABS, A/C, power windows and a sunroof, making it even rarer. No deluxe radio or leather seats, though. I didn't want or need either.

And only $20k total purchase price! (Ok, actually $20,250.)

Is there anything else I could check to add to the rarities?

And if I restore it well enough, how much could it fetch, ballpark?

Not that I'm looking to sell anytime soon, so stop salivating.

 

[pauleyman]

Yes, any M6 x 1 x 25 bolt should do the trick. Obviously, the key is to ensure the end of the tie bar is held down so add a washer as needed to ensure this end is captured.


Sure is fun, isn't it?

It's been so long I can't remember but I am fortunate enough that 2 of my 1g cars were very low mileage and I could swear they had a bolt there not a stud. One was a 90 and the other a 93.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1Gs had a bolt. 2Gs had a stud and nut.

 

[XC92]

It's been so long I can't remember but I am fortunate enough that 2 of my 1g cars were very low mileage and I could swear they had a bolt there not a stud. One was a 90 and the other a 93.

It's supposed to have a bolt, and used to have a bolt, but some nice mech working on the car at some point in the past was kind enough to turn it into a stud by snapping off the head. So yeah, bolt. Now I have the fun task of extracting the makeshift "stud" and replacing it with a proper bolt and washer.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Broken Exhaust Stud/Screw Removal [Merged 8-8] bolt fastener threads | DSMtuners


This should help, im fortunate im doing a build with a buddy i just have to get replacements, those things a re a pita.

 

[XC92]

Thanks. I have several bolt extraction kits and one of them should do the trick. I have the same problem with several mud guard bolts and one exhaust hanger bolt. Old car, rusty bolts.

Btw, one other quick question. I just got a speed bleeder for the clutch slave cylinder, as it's a pain to keep asking someone to help me with a standard bleeder. However the design of the 1G DSM slave cylinder makes it nearly impossible to loosen or tighten the bleeder using either end of a combo wrench, because the hex part is obscured by the banjo bolt and line.

The only way I've been able to loosen and tighten it is with a socket (11mm to make it even more interesting). But that prevents putting a bleeder hose on the end, so it's going to get messy. But I was wondering, does the check valve of a speed bleeder make it less likely that fluid will leak out the opening, as kind of a side benefit to its design? That would help a lot.

 

[pauleyman]

Thanks. I have several bolt extraction kits and one of them should do the trick. I have the same problem with several mud guard bolts and one exhaust hanger bolt. Old car, rusty bolts.

Btw, one other quick question. I just got a speed bleeder for the clutch slave cylinder, as it's a pain to keep asking someone to help me with a standard bleeder. However the design of the 1G DSM slave cylinder makes it nearly impossible to loosen or tighten the bleeder using either end of a combo wrench, because the hex part is obscured by the banjo bolt and line.

The only way I've been able to loosen and tighten it is with a socket (11mm to make it even more interesting). But that prevents putting a bleeder hose on the end, so it's going to get messy. But I was wondering, does the check valve of a speed bleeder make it less likely that fluid will leak out the opening, as kind of a side benefit to its design? That would help a lot.

I use either a line wrench or i put a box end on and then attach the hose and just leave the wrench on during the process.

 

[XC92]

Really hard to do on the 1G AWD clutch slave. However, it looks like the speed bleeder I got takes care of that by not allowing fluid to escape through the bleeder nipple due to the check valve inside, so I can use a socket instead. So long as I don't open it too far, it shouldn't leak. Bleeding this with the OEM valve has been a lot harder than bleeding a caliper. Much of that is due to access issues, of course, but the valve itself is awkwardly situated and designed.

 

[pauleyman]

I'm curious if your slave has been changed. Awd and fwd slaves are not the same. I dont remember any bleeder access issues. Ive only wrenched on a 2g lately.

 

[XC92]

It wouldn't have been me. The clutch has been replaced three times already, including the one that I just did, so perhaps a shop replaced it way back when. It's not impossible to reach, just really hard. Perhaps if I removed the center member then access would be easier, but with the speed bleeder I don't really need to now. The main annoyance now is that the vinyl tube tends to slip off the valve or pop out of the bleeder catch bottle, so I just ordered a length of 5mm silicone tubing to fix both issues. May these be my worst issues from here on.