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2G What tensioner I need

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Sirius1995

Proven Member
421
91
Jun 15, 2021
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Hi!
Real quick question cuz I didn't find a straight answer for this anywhere.
Block is from 1g, it's 7bolt non turbo block with turbo internals.
I ordered timing parts but I missed the hydraulic tensioner and I was about to get one but I have total 3 options to choose from.
Does it matter which one I get?
Other timing parts are for 95-99 eclipse.
I'm not sure which tensioner arm I have yet, I'll check today and can add to the post if that helps.

Here's tensioner arm

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You have a 7 bolt oil pump correct then use a 7 bolt tensioner . A 6 bolt uses a 6 bolt tensioner. Same goes for the tensioner arm.

But there's (3) different versions of the 7-bolt tensioner for DSMs.
  • 1G 7-bolt: MD190988 (superseded by MD308586)
  • Early 1995 2G: MD185539 (superseded by MD308587; and generally rare that this is used)
  • All other 2G: MD308086

I think which you use depends on which tensioner arm you are using.
  • In a 6-bolt swap, you would use the 1G tensioner arm.
  • All 1G tensioner arms are the same.
  • The 1G tensioner arm is different from the 2G tensioner arm.
So, in this case, if using a 1G tensioner arm, I would suggest using the 1G 7-bolt tensioner.
If using the 2G tensioner arm, I cannot say for certain, though I would lean pretty heavily towards the early '95 MD308587 tensioner due to the fact that the 1G 7-bolt oil pump part number (MD193384) is the same as the early '95 oil pump part number, so the mounting for the two would be the same. The fact that they use different tensioner arms means the position / orientation of the hydraulic plunger must be different. From there, I'd imagine it would be a simple matter of matching the arm to the the tensioner.

What I cannot recall at this time is whether it is possible to use the 2G tensioner arm with the 1G water pump. But it shouldn't be too hard to mock up and find out.
 
But there's (3) different versions of the 7-bolt tensioner for DSMs.
  • 1G 7-bolt: MD190988 (superseded by MD308586)
  • Early 1995 2G: MD185539 (superseded by MD308587; and generally rare that this is used)
  • All other 2G: MD308086

I think which you use depends on which tensioner arm you are using.
  • In a 6-bolt swap, you would use the 1G tensioner arm.
  • All 1G tensioner arms are the same.
  • The 1G tensioner arm is different from the 2G tensioner arm.
So, in this case, if using a 1G tensioner arm, I would suggest using the 1G 7-bolt tensioner.
If using the 2G tensioner arm, I cannot say for certain, though I would lean pretty heavily towards the early '95 MD308587 tensioner due to the fact that the 1G 7-bolt oil pump part number (MD193384) is the same as the early '95 oil pump part number, so the mounting for the two would be the same. The fact that they use different tensioner arms means the position / orientation of the hydraulic plunger must be different. From there, I'd imagine it would be a simple matter of matching the arm to the the tensioner.

What I cannot recall at this time is whether it is possible to use the 2G tensioner arm with the 1G water pump. But it shouldn't be too hard to mock up and find out.
This!!
There's so many freaking keyboard warriors today but they don't read this, and I've been given so mixed facts all over internet (forum and Facebook) here I was told that non turbo block is only one which do t have squirters, but suddenly now it's totally random, nothing makes sense anymore
 
Not sure if this helps you or not but I have used a later style 2g tensioner with the metal plug on top on an early 95 block. The early 95 block has the tensioner with the metal plug on the side of it at a 90 degree angle which is the same tensioner as the 1g 7 bolt. The tensioner I used has the metal plug on the top of it. I mocked it up and it hits the tensioner in the same spot that the original did have been running that car for sometime with no ill effects.
- Daniel
 
Well seeing how all 7 bolt oil pumps are now referred to as 1 part number 1g , 1g non turbo and 2g. 92.5 TO 94 tensioner are discontinued oem . It would be safe to say that I would be installing a later style pump with matching tensioner and arm than trying figure out which niche year parts to use and maintain.
 
Well seeing how all 7 bolt oil pumps are now referred to as 1 part number 1g , 1g non turbo and 2g. 92.5 TO 94 tensioner are discontinued oem . It would be safe to say that I would be installing a later style pump with matching tensioner and arm than trying figure out which niche year parts to use and maintain.
I have 5 oil pumps but I don't know what year block they're from
 
From what I know all 7 bolts use the same front case. Which would be the same oil pump as well.
-Daniel
 
Also while changing to new style pump reuse the old oil pressure spring ( or buy new ) ofh and if doing a balance shaft delete port the housing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have rest of the engine freshly rebuild, didn't want to do bs delete, I wanna have engine with it to see how it feels "from factory" only mod I'll have for engine is injectors and 16g, and I have everything else but when I ordered timing components, I forgot to order hydraulic tensioner, and I noticed there's different type of tensioners depending on the block, and I thought I had my block figured out but I'm not sure anymore, and can't find answer for this anywhere.

As far as I know, blocks without oil squirters jets (OSJ in short ) are 1g non turbo blocks, but I also been told now that according my block's number, it's from -96 Spyder GST, which doesn't make any sense cuz then it should have OSJ's

And mine are not blocked, it never had OSJ's

So are they 2g blocks after all without them or is the block number read wrong, is there maybe a way to tell which tensioner I need by the oil pump, if there's a number somewhere?

Please help, this is the missing puzzle piece to have my engine ready for my dream car!
 
Nwhtank- can you elaborate more on this? How would one tell if they had the new style or or style oil pump? Is it the oil pump and gears or the front case? I’m just curious not trying to be rude.


To the OP I have 5 2g turbo blocks 2 in cars and 3 on stands and they all had oil squirters. 1-95 3-97s and 1-99. I have never seen a 2g turbo block without them, not saying it’s not possible but I can’t confirm if it’s true. If it is a 96 I’d use the late style tensioner but that’s just my opinion.
 
Hopefully you are using forged pistons with no squirters and boost and not cast pistons.

I have no idea on part numbers for oil pumps 7 bolt generations. Just doing a fresh rebuild for me includes the oil pump than relying on a 20 to 30 year old part to maybe fail and taking down a investment.
 
Well seeing how all 7 bolt oil pumps are now referred to as 1 part number 1g , 1g non turbo and 2g. 92.5 TO 94 tensioner are discontinued oem . It would be safe to say that I would be installing a later style pump with matching tensioner and arm than trying figure out which niche year parts to use and maintain.
That's fine, and certainly a commendable way of doing things. And I do tend to agree with you.

Referencing the picture posted in this other ongoing thread, where 2G arm is on top and 1G arm is on bottom: 1G - 1g 7 bolt timing belt tensioner arm the same as 2G?

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and this thread that shows this 2G arm positioned with a 6-bolt engine / tensioner: 6 bolt swap problem (2g motor mount bracket)

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If all 1Gs use the same tensioner arm, i.e., not the one pictured immediately above, then a 1G 6-bolt and 1G 7-bolt tensioner should end up oriented the same way. Neither would align properly with the 2G tensioner arm, so use of a 1G tensioner arm would be required. And clearly, the orientation of the 2G tensioners must align with the 2G tensioner arm.

I have found multiple reports of people using late style tensioners on early '95 cars without any issues, so I'll concede that early '95 vs. later 2G shouldn't matter much. But each case these are on 2G engines with 2G water pumps. The question still remains - can you use a 2G tensioner arm with a 1G water pump?

@Sirius1995 - post pictures of the outside of the block and we can tell you whether it is a 1G or 2G engine - bellhousing side would be preferred. All turbo engines had oil squirters. 1Gs all had a bolt-in style squirter tapping into the oil gallery that feeds the main bearings and the 2Gs had a press-in style directly in the main bearing bores. In order to see the 2G style squirter, one would have to remove the crankshaft or pistons / rods unless you can see the block wall just below the cylinder area. To steal a picture from 2G 7Bolt Oil Squirter Block Off, here's the 2G style:

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Also while changing to new style pump reuse the old oil pressure spring ( or buy new ) out of the old pump and if doing a balance shaft delete port the housing.
There is no spring in the oil pump.
 
That's fine, and certainly a commendable way of doing things. And I do tend to agree with you.

Referencing the picture posted in this other ongoing thread, where 2G arm is on top and 1G arm is on bottom: 1G - 1g 7 bolt timing belt tensioner arm the same as 2G?

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and this thread that shows this 2G arm positioned with a 6-bolt engine / tensioner: 6 bolt swap problem (2g motor mount bracket)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


If all 1Gs use the same tensioner arm, i.e., not the one pictured immediately above, then a 1G 6-bolt and 1G 7-bolt tensioner should end up oriented the same way. Neither would align properly with the 2G tensioner arm, so use of a 1G tensioner arm would be required. And clearly, the orientation of the 2G tensioners must align with the 2G tensioner arm.

I have found multiple reports of people using late style tensioners on early '95 cars without any issues, so I'll concede that early '95 vs. later 2G shouldn't matter much. But each case these are on 2G engines with 2G water pumps. The question still remains - can you use a 2G tensioner arm with a 1G water pump?

@Sirius1995 - post pictures of the outside of the block and we can tell you whether it is a 1G or 2G engine - bellhousing side would be preferred. All turbo engines had oil squirters. 1Gs all had a bolt-in style squirter tapping into the oil gallery that feeds the main bearings and the 2Gs had a press-in style directly in the main bearing bores. In order to see the 2G style squirter, one would have to remove the crankshaft or pistons / rods unless you can see the block wall just below the cylinder area. To steal a picture from 2G 7Bolt Oil Squirter Block Off, here's the 2G style:

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There is no spring in the oil pump.
These pictures were super helpful and let me understand a few things more and some stuff makes sense now, okay so the block is turbo block, and from -96 GST spyder, so I'll need 2g (95-99) tensioner, thank you so much!
 
I'm seeing MD050299 as the pressure relief spring in the oil filter housing, the same for all DSM 4G63 models. So you can safely leave the spring alone.
 
I ran into this while using a mock up motor to build then transfer parts to my build motor. Ran into issues with the timing components.

The block is a 6 bolt, but had been swapped to a 7 bolt oil pump. RRE old 2g conversion. They modified the block to work with the 7bolt pump and used 7 bolt tensioner and arm. So when I mounted up a 6 bolt tensioner and pump it didn't align up with the arm and had to track down a 6 bolt arm.

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I have "rebuild" the ofh already and it's been installed, and ready to go, I just needed to figure out this tensioner
 
I think the extreme psi lower pressure spring is actually a 1.8 mirage spring, pretty much the matching spring to the stub shaft you get from mitsu. I have the low pressure spring in my car along with the 1.8 mirage stub shaft.
 
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