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2G What parts are needed to make 400whp reliable on a 7 bolt 4g63?

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2g_Shaun

Probationary Member
14
0
Oct 11, 2022
Rio Rancho, New_Mexico
what parts are needed to make 400whp reliable on a 7 bolt? I want to stay stock internals. But if that is not a good idea what is a good number? I have a action clutch 6 puck sprung and there light weight flywheel and 3 inch turbo back exhaust.
 
You'll need bigger injectors, turbo, and all supporting mods including dsmlink. You'll want to do all preventive maintenance like timing welt, waterpump, and ect to keep everything new.

In my opinion, 400whp isn't easily obtained with a stock motor. My stock motor spun a bearing around 370 although link said my 20g did 40lb/min. I would say around 320 could be a safe reliable number to be reliable.
 
Good supporting mods! E316g is possible but hard in stock form. But a 20g would be better, a really good tune with ecmlink for basics unles you wish to go aftermarket ecu and spend more money?

Supporting mods will include some basics like logging gauges, fuel pump, afpr, injectors.
Exhaust will be bigger and free flowing (no cat if doable)
Well maintained engine with fresh oils and trans fluids and timing with good oem parts. Use mitsi belts from the evo 9 kevlar or aftermarket belts.

Good cooling as power will create heat so good thermal barriers and covers and alloy rad and good silicone hoses to support the new coolant pressures.

Jumping to 400hp will set you back about 4-5k ish or more if you dont find deals. Thats not inc tune time for someone to do that!

Plus it dont include install from someone either so you have to k ow what you are doing to save the funds in the right places.

Stock block can handle that but dont go past 25psi as you might run into problems and its a precaution really vs being a limit. Good headstuds will help also along the way
 
It would be hard on the engine. At that power level I broke a clutch spring and also had what felt like crank walk before I parked it permanently. That setup had maybe 30-40k miles on it (+140k miles). A torque limited tuning would definitely have improved the reliability but the E316g wasnt helping matters much. I feel like 350 w.h.p. would be a better compromise with a solid tune.
 
I made over 400 cramming boost into a stock non turbo 6 bolt bottom end for several seasons and several thousand street miles beating the absolute crap out of it, take that as you will. Tune and current condition of the engine are the biggest factors, there’s more than one way to skin a cat but ECMlink is the easiest option.
 
You'll need bigger injectors, turbo, and all supporting mods including dsmlink. You'll want to do all preventive maintenance like timing welt, waterpump, and ect to keep everything new.

In my opinion, 400whp isn't easily obtained with a stock motor. My stock motor spun a bearing around 370 although link said my 20g did 40lb/min. I would say around 320 could be a safe reliable number to be reliable.
Ya i recently did a brand new oil, trans fluid, coolant flush, water pump, timing belt, tensioners, new o2's, rear and front main seal, upgraded spark plug wires, new spark plugs. I plan on getting a cometic head gasket and arp head studs, upgraded fuel pump, cx racing turbo manifold with 16g turbo, cx racing front mount intercooler kit, ecmlink ecu. Im sure my clutch is more than enough for the torque with it being a 6 puck to.
 
Good supporting mods! E316g is possible but hard in stock form. But a 20g would be better, a really good tune with ecmlink for basics unles you wish to go aftermarket ecu and spend more money?

Supporting mods will include some basics like logging gauges, fuel pump, afpr, injectors.
Exhaust will be bigger and free flowing (no cat if doable)
Well maintained engine with fresh oils and trans fluids and timing with good oem parts. Use mitsi belts from the evo 9 kevlar or aftermarket belts.

Good cooling as power will create heat so good thermal barriers and covers and alloy rad and good silicone hoses to support the new coolant pressures.

Jumping to 400hp will set you back about 4-5k ish or more if you dont find deals. Thats not inc tune time for someone to do that!

Plus it dont include install from someone either so you have to k ow what you are doing to save the funds in the right places.

Stock block can handle that but dont go past 25psi as you might run into problems and its a precaution really vs being a limit. Good headstuds will help also along the way
Ya i have done every bit of service for the engine. My next step was to do cx racing 16g turbo and manifold, cx racing front mount intercooler kit, bigger injectors and fuel pump, Arp head studs and cometic multi layer head gasket, ecm link/ or haltech 1500, Mishimoto rad hoses and rad.
 
Ya i have done every bit of service for the engine. My next step was to do cx racing 16g turbo and manifold, cx racing front mount intercooler kit, bigger injectors and fuel pump, Arp head studs and cometic multi layer head gasket, ecm link/ or haltech 1500, Mishimoto rad hoses and rad.
If you want reliability stay away from the China 16g and tubular manifold. If your stock 2g manifold isn’t cracked from old age and several heat cycles, port it and it won’t just be less prone to cracking like the crappy tubular chinafold but will flow and perform better too. As far as the 16g goes spend a little more and get a real MHI 16g. Even a used one is likely to last longer than a China one that typically only lasts a few thousand miles turned all the way up.
 
If you want reliability stay away from the China 16g and tubular manifold. If your stock 2g manifold isn’t cracked from old age and several heat cycles, port it and it won’t just be less prone to cracking like the crappy tubular chinafold but will flow and perform better too. As far as the 16g goes spend a little more and get a real MHI 16g. Even a used one is likely to last longer than a China one that typically only lasts a few thousand miles turned all the way up.
Oh I see. Cx racing is all China stuff?
 
If you are wanting 400whp, on a stock motor, which is pushing the limits, you don't get that by putting cheap parts on. A small 16g wont get you there. You could look in the classified on here and look for a 20g setup. I had a 20g, very fun all around turbo. You could look into a VRSF intercooler kit. You could look into 1000cc injectors. If your on a budget, PTE injectors could be had. For a fuel pump, wally 255 should do. And with a bigger fuel system, you'll need to regulate it as well. Then look for dsmlink in the classifieds to. That's the main bullet points. You said the matenaince has been done, so does that mean new water pump, timing belt, balance shaft belt, timing tensioner, and ect? I didn't cover the clutch at all here. But your stock clutch will probably not handle it.
 
Oh I see. Cx racing is all China stuff?
YES!!! I have the CX tubular manifold and the CX 16g on my GST and that tubular manifold gets hot and warps at high temp, and it kept pulling and loosening the nuts, and even stripped a stud off my head, now its got an exhaust leak and I have to take off the head to a machine shop to drill out the broken stud. Get a stock manifold ported, or an FP exhaust manifold, and a real MHI EVO III 16G. Or a 20G, even better for max HP on pump gas.
 
A healthy 7 bolt will take 400hp no problem. It’s the 7 bolt rods that are weak. They don’t like torque. I’d be more worried about drivetrain at 400 than the motor.

I personally run 430 on a stock 7 bolt bottom end and about to raise it 440. More to come after this winter when I switch to E85 and up the boost.

Get your self a good tuner. @gofer runs about the same power as me on a stock 7 bolt bottom end as well. I don’t have balance shafts and he does.

-Daniel
 
You'll need bigger injectors, turbo, and all supporting mods including dsmlink. You'll want to do all preventive maintenance like timing welt, waterpump, and ect to keep everything new.

In my opinion, 400whp isn't easily obtained with a stock motor. My stock motor spun a bearing around 370 although link said my 20g did 40lb/min. I would say around 320 could be a safe reliable number to be reliable.
I am pushing 30psi of boost with a hx35/40 hybrid with all supporting mods making around 425hp in a 7 bolt, and all I have done engine wise is head studs.
 
If you are wanting 400whp, on a stock motor, which is pushing the limits, you don't get that by putting cheap parts on. A small 16g wont get you there. You could look in the classified on here and look for a 20g setup. I had a 20g, very fun all around turbo. You could look into a VRSF intercooler kit. You could look into 1000cc injectors. If your on a budget, PTE injectors could be had. For a fuel pump, wally 255 should do. And with a bigger fuel system, you'll need to regulate it as well. Then look for dsmlink in the classifieds to. That's the main bullet points. You said the matenaince has been done, so does that mean new water pump, timing belt, balance shaft belt, timing tensioner, and ect? I didn't cover the clutch at all here. But your stock clutch will probably not handle it.
yes all that stuff done and the clutch is a action 6 puck sprung with light weight fly wheel.
 
YES!!! I have the CX tubular manifold and the CX 16g on my GST and that tubular manifold gets hot and warps at high temp, and it kept pulling and loosening the nuts, and even stripped a stud off my head, now its got an exhaust leak and I have to take off the head to a machine shop to drill out the broken stud. Get a stock manifold ported, or an FP exhaust manifold, and a real MHI EVO III 16G. Or a 20G, even better for max HP on pump gas.
ok cool i wont do cx racing.
 
I am pushing 30psi of boost with a hx35/40 hybrid with all supporting mods making around 425hp in a 7 bolt, and all I have done engine wise is head studs.
how is it holding up? and have u had any issues?
 
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