What kind of oil do you use?

[SpawnedX]

I personally recommend against Mobil 1 whenever I can. I use to love the stuff. Then I did some research, under independent load bearing tests Mobil 1 had some of the largest wear and tear scoring out of all oils tested, including non-synthetics.

When I switched to RP, the engine ran smoother and my lifter tick subsided.

 

[Hubbard 0]

I personally recommend against Mobil 1 whenever I can. I use to love the stuff. Then I did some research, under independent load bearing tests Mobil 1 had some of the largest wear and tear scoring out of all oils tested, including non-synthetics.

When I switched to RP, the engine ran smoother and my lifter tick subsided.

My friend has 270k miles on his WRX and has used Mobil 1 since he bought it at 20k miles and he beats the shit out of his car daily.

 

[tallywacker]

My friend has 270k miles on his WRX and has used Mobil 1 since he bought it at 20k miles and he beats the shit out of his car daily.

Really in today's world, any of the top end lubricants are going to do a good job. A lot of top tier performance cars run mobil 1 from the factory. If the Corvette, Mercedes, and BMW engineers like it, its good enough for anything. They have done much more research than Billy Bob the forums racer.

 

[brownfinger]

Anyone running Shell Rotella? Subie guys swear by this oil, just wondering if anyone else has tried it? Yes I know its diesel oil.

Last October I flew to Spokane, WA, to pick-up my shiney-clean '94 GS. Even though it had a reciept for a rebuilt engine 15K mi. ago, I about crapped my pants when I saw the oil pressure guage. The needle moved enough for me to know the guage was working, but not a whole lot more. I paid about $65 for a Jiffy-Lube Rotella T oil-change, after calling my brother, a WRX tuner, to verify my plans. Well, the damn thing did make it back to Normal. I think that's pre-programmed into their DNA, to make it back to Normal.

Will I run Mobil 1 Syn... but I don't know whos the idiot me or you! I usually run it to 4-5000k miles. Royal Purple suggest running it to 7k miles!
Lot's of turbo owners usually switch it out by 2.5k miles or 3k give or take! I think its a waste. No one ever claim that running it over 3k miles will damage the turbo.

Am I the only one who knows that you change your oil when it's dirty? Plain and simple. Check the dip-stick. If it's still all yellow-gold and smelling good, you're OK. When it changes from brown to black, you need to change it. I don't even note the milage anymore.

Newer cars have a 7,500 mile interval, or no interval at all: There is a sensor in the oil pan that tells you when the oil needs to be changed. It counts the molecules, then turns on the idiot light.

In my truck i use mobil 1 5w-20 and i ALWAYS add a can of BG MOA, I never use a different weight than specified unless i messed with the clearances. I also use FACTORY filters.

+1 the factory filters They always give me a new crush-washer for free at the local dealer, too.

What is BG MOA?

I always used valvoline 10W-40 in my old '93 GS (RIP), with 1/2 to 1 qt. Lucas oil stabilizer. Way back in the 90's, the dealership recomeneded the Lucas for my lifter tick. It didn't make it any worse! The car made it to 215,000mi before it got hit head-on by a texting 16-year-old. Never had the head, pan, or anything else, off, just a factory warrior that made it 200K+, red-lined all the way!

My '92 GS-T came with a CC full of Quaker-state 5-W30. It's oil pressure is fantastic, but I still occasionally dumped a little Lucas in there since I bought it, also in October. I haven't changed it's oil once since I bought it! The oil was brand-new when I got it. It's only now starting to look like it's time to change it. It's been 4-5,ooo mi. I'm gonna go with the ole' Valvoline 10W-40, or 5W-30, & Lucas, but if it gets too lifter-ticky, I'll switch back to the QS.

 

[sag1441]

RO to the mo ####in TELLA

ran it in the gvr4, run it in the wrx and bike

i dont look too much into my oils but compared to royal purple and mobil 1, rotella has quieted my engines the most and burns the least in the wrx. its within spec to burn a quart a month in the suby hahahaha

 

[brownfinger]

Isn't that hilarious? If you really look close at the owners manual, it says very clearly that everything is still perfectly fine, as long as your engine burns less than a quart of oil every 500 miles! I had to explain that to a friend of mine when she siezed the engine in her Camry. "There wasn't that much oil on my driveway, though!", she said. "Uh, Suzanne, it doesn't just leak out, it goes... other places, too."

One more reason to check your oil. That's a good thing about lifter-tick; it sure does remind you to check your oil. My 6-bolt only clicks when it's time to add a half-quart.

 

[SpawnedX]

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

I'll stick with RP while people pretend to believe that all synthetics are the same and that Mobil 1 is quality.

 

[BigBeans]

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

I'll stick with RP while people pretend to believe that all synthetics are the same and that Mobil 1 is quality.

Valvoline had some of the best results in load bearing tests done by AMSoil, which is why that's usually my first choice.

Edit: just looked at the load bearing test you posted...i might have to go back to RP after seeing that

 

[SpawnedX]

Valvoline had some of the best results in load bearing tests done by AMSoil, which is why that's usually my first choice.

Valvoline is a great oil, too. If AMSOIL was more easily obtainable, I would probably switch to that over RP.

 

[tallywacker]

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

I'll stick with RP while people pretend to believe that all synthetics are the same and that Mobil 1 is quality.

I'll believe that test as far as I can throw my DSM. You want real tests you have to run motors to death, taking samples along the way like the rest on the industry and engineers do. Using a bench test like that FAR from real engine conditions no matter what that guy wants you to believe.

Want to buy a tornado intake that will give you 70mpg? They claim to have real numbers as well.

 

[SpawnedX]

I'll believe that test as far as I can throw my DSM. You want real tests you have to run motors to death, taking samples along the way like the rest on the industry and engineers do. Using a bench test like that FAR from real engine conditions no matter what that guy wants you to believe.

Want to buy a tornado intake that will give you 70mpg? They claim to have real numbers as well.

Whether it's 100% accurate or not, I will not use an oil that under the exact same conditions as other oils leaves one of the largest gashes under a simple load test.

Since Mobil 1 provides free oil to all these race teams that support it (and who also rebuild engines once a week), that means nothing.

AMSOIL did an extensive test versus Mobil 1 and found the similar outcome. All talk, no walk.

People can use Mobil 1 on their 300 HP DSMs all day for all I care, but my race build will see oil that holds up in tests not done by the company that made it.

 

[Calan]

Really in today's world, any of the top end lubricants are going to do a good job.

Agreed. Today's technology and formulations are WAY beyond what was available 20 years ago. I think you'd have to run some really crappy no-name bug gut oil before it made a huge difference in longevity, all things being equal.

A decent filter, routine maintenance, and common sense are more important than debating over which proven name-brand oil to choose.

AMSOIL did an extensive test versus Mobil 1 and found the similar outcome.

So an oil distributor (AMSOIL) ran a test and found problems with one of their biggest competitors (Mobil 1). What are the odds of that?

AMSOIL is good oil. Mobil One is good oil. Royal Purple, Valvoline, Castrol, Quaker State, (probably even Pennzoil now )....they're all good oils. Word of mouth from real consumers will spread over the internet like wildfire these days and can put a bad product out of existence WAY faster than any "independent lab tests". When any of these name brand oils are proven to truly be bad for a motor, we'll all know about it in no time. Until then, there are going to be occasional horror stories about any of them, either from a less-than-brilliant consumer or some company trying to put a spin against competitors....and it doesn't mean squat.

There is so much unadvertised cooperation and "mixing" of raw and refined products (and technology) throughout the oil industry as a whole these days that the majority of oils sitting on the shelf are basically the same; the biggest difference is in the advertising budgets of the companies selling them. If one is "proven" to be a bad oil, it's more likely because of a change in suppliers at some point along the production chain that caused a hiccup in a large batch of product.

On a semi-related note...it get's even crazier with gasoline products, but the results tend to go in the opposite direction. I recently tested gasoline from several different sources and found excellent gas where it was least expected, and complete crap from "respected" producers. In the end, it has little to do with brand and more to do with where the distributors are getting there crude and refined products, in the never-ending quest to save a buck.

*****

BTW - There is an almost identical thread and debate (and *cough* test results *cough*) floating around here somewhere...I'm surprised this thread has remained open as long as it has.

 

[Hubbard 0]

Really in today's world, any of the top end lubricants are going to do a good job. A lot of top tier performance cars run mobil 1 from the factory. If the Corvette, Mercedes, and BMW engineers like it, its good enough for anything. They have done much more research than Billy Bob the forums racer.

Underground Racing, the company that does the 1000 HP Lamborghini Gallardos offer a 2 year/24,000 mile warranty on their turbo kits, but only if you use Mobil 1 15w-50.

I think that says quite a bit right there too.

 

[tallywacker]

Underground Racing, the company that does the 1000 HP Lamborghini Gallardos offer a 2 year/24,000 mile warranty on their turbo kits, but only if you use Mobil 1 15w-50.

I think that says quite a bit right there too.

Oh I know, the thinking is ridiculous that these hole in the wall companies can afford more research and development than a company like Mobil and Castrol.

 

[rich3389]

BTW - There is an almost identical thread and debate (and *cough* test results *cough*) floating around here somewhere...I'm surprised this thread has remained open as long as it has.

I posted this thread in the hangout section, just simply asking what oil you use. I did not ask "what is the best oil?" cough cough, like the other thread.

 

[Calan]

... it's all good.

I was just saying that I expected a mod to close and merge it is all.

 

[brownfinger]

It's still good, proper, "hangout" material.

 

[JMGSX]

Anyone running Shell Rotella? Subie guys swear by this oil, just wondering if anyone else has tried it? Yes I know its diesel oil.

I use it on a few different vehicles. Works well for me.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

[/QUOTE] What is BG MOA? [/QUOTE]

Best way to explain what it CAN do is to look at that video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

ND SAE30 for break-ins until 500 miles, then pennzoil 10w-30 til 1500, then mobile 1 syn 10w-30. I've used every readily available oil out there, no difference really.

 

[yepes281]

I use mobile 1 10w-40, but will soon be using Hello kitty 5w-30.

 

[JusMX141]

I use mobile 1 10w-40, but will soon be using Hello kitty 5w-30.

Mitsubishi only recommends 5W30 for use in DSMs in climates below 60*f. If you're using 5W30 in your car in Texas, you're using an oil that is too thin.

 

[Benshooter]

I'm a fan of valvoline 20-50. Higher viscosity synthetics have treated me well in the past for higher hp applications.

I'm sorry, but in my opinion all those lab tests are unrealistic crapshoots. A true real world UNBIASED test would cost far too much money for an independant company to perform. A lot of garbage sells on namesake alone; a goog example being FRAM oil filters.

I'm scared to use any pennzoil products after the horror stories I've heard about their older stuff. I'm sure that they've improved but companies that have a record for pushing junk make me nervous.

 

[97 GSX 97]

Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30

 

[SpawnedX]

I hope you realize Mitsubishi's endorsement of Mobil 1 is part of a contractual agreement where Mobil 1 provides their oil at dirt cheap prices. It has nothing to do with it's "superiority."

But hey, keep believing all oils are the same, I mean at the school I went to for automotive services, they only refuted and adequately proved that it is not. Heck, I guess all the "mechanics" here with non-running DSMs know better than ASE certified, industry veterans.

Ferrari was more than happy to drop their Mobil 1 endorsement...wonder why.

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I know the people who are not fan boy's and are actually interested in information will put these to use:

http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/synthetic_oils.htm

http://www.bestsynthetic.com/comptest.shtml

http://cars.lovetoknow.com/Interview:_Synthetic_Oil_Myth

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Use that to make your own determination. I honestly could care less what you use and if your engine blows up. However, the reason this site gets the nickname "tooners," is because of all the bad information provided by people who are suppose to be trusted sources.

Why did the myth that all synthetic oils are the same come about? Like all other similar myths, someone, somewhere, needed to feel good about buying the cheapest stuff he could find.