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What kind of oil do you use?

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10w40 is better for higher mileage cars

Heavy oil protects better after the initial startup. In cold winter temps you want thin oil for good lube on startup. This is the first number (10W30).

In the summer i want an oil that's a little thicker when up to temp because of the warmer air temps, and the fact that the car sees more full throttle time, track and otherwise, during the summer months.

I've thought about going to a 20w50 for the summer, but i don't think it's necessary because i'm not doing any road course stuff with this car.
 
Brad Penn 15w-40. Americas oldest consistently running refinery in Bradford Penn. I had my engine built by the man who builds buschurs engines and he recommended it. Also the shop that built my fathers Grand National engine recommended it. Its green too so thats cool. Our engines where designed to run on high zinc oil. Anyone use Brad Penn oil? - FerrariChat.com Its good enough for them and the old Don Garlets prob used good stuff. they say older SH ratings which is what our cars required had higher temperature due to all the turbo cars. Also on the back of Brad Penn it says it can be detrimental to cars with catalytic converters which is cool.
 
On Castrol Synthetic 10-30. It's way to thin, I have terribly low oil pressure at idle. Gonna go to a 10-40 and hope it improves at least 10 PSI at idle. Sucks that I have to drain $45 worth of oil after 500 miles.
 
Regular Penzoil 10W-40 ...Not synthetic, plenty good enough for a N/T. I like to spend more on my filters (Bosch or K&N)
 
Regular Penzoil 10W-40 ...Not synthetic, plenty good enough for a N/T. I like to spend more on my filters (Bosch or K&N)

I used to always use K&N oil filters on my 4G63 N/T since i've doing the turbo swap I found out that they don't make the K&N for the 4G63T so I've been using Bosch filters instead.
 
Mobil One 10w30 or 0w30 or 0w40.

Right now I'm using a 0w30 0w40 blend. I'm diggin' it. The car loves the easy starts and quick oil flow - not to mention the ~w35 I've created has made the engine noticeably smoother. I would imagine that going to a w50 would be too much for my engine at 128k. This is PLENTY thick.
 
I used to always use K&N oil filters on my 4G63 N/T since i've doing the turbo swap I found out that they don't make the K&N for the 4G63T so I've been using Bosch filters instead.

I'm running a K&N on my 4g63 right now.

Currently running Valvoline 10w30 Conventional. My oil pressure is at 20psi on a warm idle (30 minutes+ of driving) - would I see any benefit from going to a synthetic or a lighter weight oil (5w30?)? - I beat on my car a lot, bottom end has 21k miles on it.

Mobil One 10w30 or 0w30 or 0w40.

Right now I'm using a 0w30 0w40 blend. I'm diggin' it. The car loves the easy starts and quick oil flow - not to mention the ~w35 I've created has made the engine noticeably smoother. I would imagine that going to a w50 would be too much for my engine at 128k. This is PLENTY thick.



I ran 0w40 synthetic in my neon srt4 I had before the dsm, it loved that oil to death. Usually mobile 1 or Valvoline
 
Will I run Mobil 1 Syn... but I don't know whos the idiot me or you! I usually run it to 4-5000k miles. Royal Purple suggest running it to 7k miles!
Lot's of turbo owners usually switch it out by 2.5k miles or 3k give or take! I think its a waste. No one ever claim that running it over 3k miles will damage the turbo.
 
.Royal Purple and a quart of Lucas. 10w40 or 15w50 for this summer
 
Mobil One 10w30 or 0w30 or 0w40.

Right now I'm using a 0w30 0w40 blend. I'm diggin' it. The car loves the easy starts and quick oil flow - not to mention the ~w35 I've created has made the engine noticeably smoother. I would imagine that going to a w50 would be too much for my engine at 128k. This is PLENTY thick.

Any idea of what your oil pressure is at idle, cruise, etc?
 
Well.. I'm still in my brakin period. I've been using Castrol 10W30 with a bit of Lucas. My oil pressure is a bit low..=/ I think it's bad valve seals killing me. Rings are seated though. I burn no oil when driving. Just at idle. >.<

I've ran Royal Purple in my N/T and honestly.. I noticed an increase in performance. Then again that was switching over from Valv, which my car hated. Once I hit the 1000Mile mark, which will be tomorrow, I'll be switching to Royal Purple + Half a quart of Lucas.
 
Mobile 1 synthetic oil..Car has never had anything else so why switch..
 
Anyone running Shell Rotella? Subie guys swear by this oil, just wondering if anyone else has tried it? Yes I know its diesel oil.
Might have something to do with what their crappy boxer engine prefers and/or it's oil consumption; possibly how dirty it makes the oil. All diesel oils have a higher detergent content than gasoline oils because of the soot content in used diesel engine oil; no doubt a result of diesel engines having such high compression ratios which lead to a decent amount of blowby.

All diesel oils that are not CJ-4 rated have a higher zinc content than gasoline oils because they are designed for older diesel engines which have flat tappet cams and no catalytic converters. All newer, catalyzed diesels use the CJ-4 rated oil.

All of my family's daily-driven cars including my Silverado, my mother's Lexus and our fleet of Caravans get Brad Penn 10W30 CI-4 diesel oil. High film strength, zinc protection, and Brad Penn's quality Pennsylvania crude....can't go wrong!
 
Any idea of what your oil pressure is at idle, cruise, etc?

I wish I did but I don't expect the values to change significantly. At least not from the 0. The w40 may increase pressure a bit in the higher rpms but once the engine is warmed up that 0 is now meaningless and its all about the w40.

What I'd do for a Defi-D series Oil Pressure Gauge to match my dash lights 110% and of course to match the Defi-D boost Gauge I already have. I swear no other gauge in the world comes acceptably close to the factory amber.
 
Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic, or Castrol GTX 10w30/10w40 if using dino.

The newer Penzoil stuff looks promising, but I still have nightmares from the motors I used to tear down way back in the day that ran on classic yellow Penzoil. That had to be the worst oil I have ever seen for creating sludge and buildup. It's hard for me to make that leap and try them again, although I know a lot has changed in 20 years. :)
 
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Might have something to do with what their crappy boxer engine prefers and/or it's oil consumption; possibly how dirty it makes the oil. All diesel oils have a higher detergent content than gasoline oils because of the soot content in used diesel engine oil; no doubt a result of diesel engines having such high compression ratios which lead to a decent amount of blowby.

All diesel oils that are not CJ-4 rated have a higher zinc content than gasoline oils because they are designed for older diesel engines which have flat tappet cams and no catalytic converters. All newer, catalyzed diesels use the CJ-4 rated oil.

All of my family's daily-driven cars including my Silverado, my mother's Lexus and our fleet of Caravans get Brad Penn 10W30 CI-4 diesel oil. High film strength, zinc protection, and Brad Penn's quality Pennsylvania crude....can't go wrong!

i might have to give this a shot... what kind of life are you getting out of this oil... i might switch to AMSoil here pretty soon maybe after my next oil change
 
I have been using Mobil 1 5w30. My new build I may change it up a bit especially when I put the Holset on.

Back to the Lucas, I looked into using it before but decided not to. Not sure if everyone knows, but IIRC there are 2 types of Lucas oil stabilizer. Synthetic and non synthetic, I know the non synthetic states it's not to be used for turbo applications but I'm not sure with the synthetic version. Anyway what I remember reading on here was the fact that running Lucas in the oil would cause the oil to become too thick and restrict the flow out of the turbo causing it to coke up.
 
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