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What happens if you install your CAS 180 degrees backwards?

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DROOPY209

15+ Year Contributor
493
4
Jun 23, 2004
NorCal, California
OK, so I just finished the engine swap in my 89 Mitsubishi Galant GS with the 4G63 non-turbo engine.


I got the engine to start and drove it around the block a couple times, it takes a while to get up to 35MPH. I know i have to set the Base Timing.

I was wondering..........since I put the CAS from the original engine onto the jdm 4g63, what happens if you install the CAS half a turn wrong?

the CAS has a notch in it that mates up to the intake camshaft.....is there a way something could interfere with timing???

When i get home today, I'm gunns switch it around 180 degrees to see what happens.....

Please post asap.
 
Since we run a waste spark system both plugs fire at the same time so the car will run with the CAS 180 out but the injectors won't fire at the right time so performance does suffer.

Steve
 
Last edited:
Ok guys, here's what i did last night when i got home from work and school......

I put the piston #1 on top dead center(TDC), checked the timing marks on the camshafts to be pointed at 12 o'clock.........exhaust camshaft timing mark at 3 o'clock, intake camshaft timing mark at 9 o'clock, then i removed the camshaft position sensor and noticed that the lil dot on the camshaft didnt match up with the lil notch on the key that mates up with the intake camshaft. I turned it 180 degrees, left the camshaft adjustment at center and started the car......

It started WAAAAAAAAAY better!!!!

now when i rev it up, it revs up a lot smoother and quicker. response time is very minimal now.

Now all i have to do is set the base timing and i'm all set..........

Do i really need a Timing Gun or is there another accurate way of setting base timing without the Timing Gun?
 
Eh, when I had mine on 180 off the car just wouldn't start at all.
And when you do the timing, don't forget to unplug any datalogger cable and ground the terminal on the firewall before you start, or it'll likely go into idle adjust mode instead of timing set mode. Had weird problems with the timing bouncing around until I remembered to unplug my logger.
 
I ran mine both ways when i was trying to figure something out and it ran the same both ways. So put the motor to tdc and put the side that has the notch that sticks farther out on the side that corresponds to the intake cam.
 
So I just replaced the water pump on my friends Talon last week end.
DSM Forums - View Profile: Ak_DSMER
We reused the timing belt since it only had like 1,000 miles on it.
I set the engine to TDC before we started, put everything back together and started up fine.
But the car didn't have the power it previously did.
When I went to set the base timing, I couldn't get any spark from the #1 spark plug wire (on the timing light)?
This is the method I'm using to set the base timing.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/312350-how-set-base-timing-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html

I swapped the CAS 180 set the base timing from #4 spark plug and now she runs great.
I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong and why swapping the CAS fixed it?
 
So I just replaced the water pump on my friends Talon last week end.
DSM Forums - View Profile: Ak_DSMER
We reused the timing belt since it only had like 1,000 miles on it.
I set the engine to TDC before we started, put everything back together and started up fine.
But the car didn't have the power it previously did.
When I went to set the base timing, I couldn't get any spark from the #1 spark plug wire (on the timing light)?
This is the method I'm using to set the base timing.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/312350-how-set-base-timing-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html

I swapped the CAS 180 set the base timing from #4 spark plug and now she runs great.
I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong and why swapping the CAS fixed it?

Bringing this thread back since no one responded since we've swapped the CAS 180 fired right up, before we swapped the CAS it was like driving a N/A literally, it drives a little smoother, idles some what rough at times but there's a flat spot around 2-3 grand anymore than 1/4 throttle and it's like driving a N/A, I can hearing the turbo spooling but rpms lagging behind then I can feel it building boost after about 3500 rpms also WOT pulls fine after 3500 I've been easy on it though because it's my daily driver, could it just be the base timing not right or does it sound like the timing belt could be off a tooth. Have not done a BLT yet because prior to the water pump change pulled through all the gears no problem. any help would be much appreciated.
 
It might sound silly but reset the ECU. I did that the first time I rebuilt my car and it was still spitting and sputtering and I just did to see what would happen. It fixed the problem the car heat cycle went into learning mode and was fine. I hope it helps you.

I also got a built motor out of car then never to run for shit. It's block is in mine now. It was off 1 tooth. I got the pics if you would like them.

I found them and this car had similar symptoms. It was intake side which is down in this picture. It does not line up with the other mark or the top of the head.

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I was talking specifically about if you reverse the CAS. Mine still acted and idled funny and then I just reset the ECU and it cleaned up. I bet if I had given it long enough to enter learning mode over time it would have correct I just sped up the process I think.

Check base timing and also get a timing light for the more extensive stuff.

Also BLT is in order for sure.
 
This might helps others

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