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What do you use for sanding/buffing/polishing various metal?

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NHerron

10+ Year Contributor
2,776
58
Nov 5, 2011
Missoula, Montana
I just got a nice ETS J-pipe and would like to fully polish it. Problem is- the 'brushed' stainless steel scratches are deep. I mean 200 grit takes a while to get down there deep. I figured it would be an hour of sanding/polishing but apparently it isn't so easy. Best thing I got to work was this:
512E EZ Lock Finishing Abrasive Buffs 320 Grit (2 Pack) / Model: 512E

But that was something I had on hand and worn out quickly.

Now I want to buy something to make this process a lot faster, would would you use?

I'm also polishing/getting rid of casting flaws on things such as the thermostat housing. Hand sanding is just not realistic when time spent is a factor.
 
My polishing experience is pretty limited, however I've done a few pieces that came out very nice. I've polished my manifold heat shield, exhaust tips and wheels. The heat shield was pretty typical. The exhaust tips were on a Vibrant stealth muffler and had to have the powder sanded through before I got to the pipes. The wheels were terribly curb rashed but cleaned up beautifully.

If 200 grit isn't knocking down, step down to something more course. Try 80 grit by hand. If it's too much work, find a dremmel and some 120 grit drums, but be careful how long you sand since it's more like grinding.

For my wheels, I literally used a file to smooth out all of the curb rash. For areas that needed more attention, I got out the 120 drum and continued to knock the metal down. Here's my process:

2" flat file,
6" flat file,
80 grit on drill,
120 grit on a drill,
then by hand with 80,
120,
220,
400,
600,
1000,
1500,
2000,
2000 wet,
and finished with a polishing wheel and red jewelers rouge.

The manifold cover I started with 120 grit and moved through the same paper grades. The muffler tips I had to knock down with 80 initially, then when through the grades.

If you are having trouble getting out casting stuff, you could always start off with a wire wheel, or go with a flapper disc. I went looking for flapper wheels and couldn't find anything, so I had to go with drums.

flappers:
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sanding drum:
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Be very careful with anything machine operated and with a course grit. You can cut through your material very quickly if not careful, or leave gouges you can't easily polish out. All of my materials came from harbour freight, including the jewlers rouge.

here's my work:

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For stainless I'd suggest going first with something like an orbital sander, I know.... woodworking tool... but it will knock things down without leaving abrasive marks like a flap disc (that will somewhat resemble the already brushed finish)

I've polished a ton of parts on my old quad and a few various items, including stainless. Stainless was the hardest to work with, but I used an orbital to start, I believe 320g. Then moved my way into the hand sanding part up to 2k with a final polish with some jewelers rough. The hand sanding isn't so bad as long as you know when to change paper, and keep it wet. With the palm sander plus some good old fashioned elbow grease I honestly think you could knock out an acceptable finish in an hour. Let me get on my laptop and post a few examples of what I've done in the past. I think I have pics on there?

Heres a few shots. all done with the following: palm sander, wire wheel, 400-600-1000-2000 grit, polishing wheel with jewelers rough.

still cast left, half done right
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cast hotness (stainless dust shields)
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after a good polish
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there wasnt a single part of my mag that wasnt anodized... this took about 20 hours, but shes a beauty
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Ive polished a lot more stuff, this was just what i had on my photbucket account
 
Great examples thank you guys.

It's a major PITA to sand that pipe down. I like the orbital idea, I'll borrow one from a friend tomorrow and see how it works out.

Would the aluminum etching be a good idea on cast parts? I just wonder how it'd look... after sanding of course.
 
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