The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support STM Tuned

What did you do to your DSM today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Anyone got any tricks for the rear brakes on a 1G? The ebrake cable and having to turn the pistons is a fuc—freaking nightmare. Legit took me longer to do one side in the rear than it did to do both front sides AND axles.

I want to light this car on fire. Lol. After getting it all together the final insult is a bolt snapping off for the ebrake bracket. Thankfully I have two spare calipers but legit all the progress today was completed for naught. It all has to be redone. Sigh. DSMs.


Meh. Least I traded the multicolored evo wheels for the wheels off the blue talon. Looks great I think. Gonna have to paint match them gloss black with a chrome/polished lip so they fit in a little better. Also have the center caps too.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Definitely need to pressure wash this side. Looking rough by comparison. But you get the idea.
 
I wish I had a trick for that but I haven't done my rear's yet. My son, the Autozone delivery guy, said we just need the special tools to spin the pistons back in for new pads but IDK if it actually works that way. Did you get the pads changed?
 
I wish I had a trick for that but I haven't done my rear's yet. My son, the Autozone delivery guy, said we just need the special tools to spin the pistons back in for new pads but IDK if it actually works that way. Did you get the pads changed?

Not yet. I got one side “done” but the ebrake cable bolt snapped off in the caliper so the whole caliper needs to be changed. I bought the special tool but it’s a nightmare either way because you have to apply force pushing in while you spin it SLOWLY. Super slowly is the key that helped me. Too fast and it would just spin and go nowhere.


But yeah. Spin it glacially slow with some decent pressing force. It eventually went in.

The ebrake cable though…that thing sucks.
 
Not yet. I got one side “done” but the ebrake cable bolt snapped off in the caliper so the whole caliper needs to be changed. I bought the special tool but it’s a nightmare either way because you have to apply force pushing in while you spin it SLOWLY. Super slowly is the key that helped me. Too fast and it would just spin and go nowhere.


But yeah. Spin it glacially slow with some decent pressing force. It eventually went in.

The ebrake cable though…that thing sucks.
Apply force? It just spins in.
 
Apply force? It just spins in.

Not mine. I have video evidence too. They were just spinning and spinning and spinning. I had to press mine down(by hand, not with an actual press) before it would finally start to go in. Once I did, and I spun it slowly, it went in.


They have been sitting fully extended since like 2013-2014 though, so rust is a problem and that might make these an outlier. As evidenced by the e-brake bracket bolt snapping in half when barely being tightened down.
 
If you ever take one apart you'll see how it works. Threaded rod through the center.

I'm not questioning that. Not sure what to tell you though as like I said, I have video evidence. Was mystified by why it wasn't actually compressing just by turning alone. I guess it was stripped or rusty enough that the rod lost threads there and me applying force got to it connect with some still good threads. Guess I should just replace both rear calipers since I have two good cores here.
 
Off-topic request, can someone spin their 1g rear caliper all the way closed, and do two things for me.

1) Take a picture with a measurement and see how far the rear piston still sticks out.

2) Tell me if it stops spinning/locks once it's all the way down, or if it just continues to spin.


Because all three of the ones I have here will only go down so far, still stick out a little bit, and will just spin for infinity but not go down any further past a certain point. I am about ten seconds away from ripping it apart and just looking for myself if it's stripped or whatever.
 
Off-topic request, can someone spin their 1g rear caliper all the way closed, and do two things for me.

1) Take a picture with a measurement and see how far the rear piston still sticks out.

2) Tell me if it stops spinning/locks once it's all the way down, or if it just continues to spin.


Because all three of the ones I have here will only go down so far, still stick out a little bit, and will just spin for infinity but not go down any further past a certain point. I am about ten seconds away from ripping it apart and just looking for myself if it's stripped or whatever.
I don't have one to compare but if memory serves it sticks up a but. Will they not go over the rotor?
 
I don't have one to compare but if memory serves it sticks up a but. Will they not go over the rotor?

The drivers side did with some…persuasion. The passenger side spat in my face and said “f**k you I ain’t going nowhere without taking the brake pad backing plate with me!” So I had to actually use a belt sander and sand the new pads down a bit.

I am just straight up going to do whatever I can to swap to a drum style ebrake/different rear caliper system before I will ever do this again. Lol.
 
Thursday & Friday was a welding day..

I'm not too happy because the result is ugly ASF.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I don't think it looks ugly at all! I can't even really tell where the welding happened. No one is gonna look at it that closely in person anyway.
 
I don't think it looks ugly at all! I can't even really tell where the welding happened. No one is gonna look at it that closely in person anyway.
It was the "before" condition about half time of rust removing process:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


It will get some stone chip layer and some paint the underbody.. the red paint just an anticorrosive weldable primer.
 
Today a did a few driving sessions trying to get the fuel dialed in. But before that I had to change my bov due to it getting stuck closed and compressor surging the turbo. So I reluctantly changed out my Type-s greddy for my Greddy FV that's been on my shelf for a couple years. Other than a few tweaks to the fuel i need to iron out, the car seems to run really good so far.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
While that's not compressor surge, a malfunctioning BOV still bad.
Took a look at your profile pics, that gauge cluster is pretty wild. My EVO gauges are barely readable in sunlight, how are they for you? The bigger ones I assume are easier to read in direct sunlight.
 
While that's not compressor surge, a malfunctioning BOV still bad.
Took a look at your profile pics, that gauge cluster is pretty wild. My EVO gauges are barely readable in sunlight, how are they for you? The bigger ones I assume are easier to read in direct sunlight.
I appreciate that. Yeah they are very good in the sun but if not dimmed at night they will blind you. My egt does decent in the sun. The pillar gauges are 60mm I believe.
 
I did a BLT today after going over the motor out of the car. Found a bad injector seal(which is odd since they are like 6 months old) that would let me hold any boost at all.

So in the last couple months

-pulled motor due to low oil pressure
-found oil squirters had dislodged.
-replaced squirters
-relocated alternator and added 0g wiriing
-painted the bay black
-put everything back in and BLT

Love this thread btw... not enough of us dsm guys left still wrenching.

@jdxnc would love to see more on your fueltech install. One of.my best friends fuel twchs everything bit no personal experience with a dsm. Assuming there is some crank sensor stiff needed among other stuff
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top