The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

What did you do to your DSM today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bent some brake hard lines for the first time. Used premade steel lines I order online from speedway motors.

Made templates out of coat hangers before I even ordered the lines to get an idea of the lengths needed.

Almost ready to hit the road after bottom end rebuild.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I tried to diagnose why it doesn't start as of late. Cranks fine. Starts sometimes....been an off and on issue, Always thought it was the fuel pump going bad but I hear it running....time for more tests....
 
Volk tube front end and got the transfer case on yesterday. Little by little, it is coming back together, after sitting since 2018, I think. Anyway, it is the car that got me started in this hobby, so it's time for it to see the road again soon!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Volk tube front end and got the transfer case on yesterday. Little by little, it is coming back together, after sitting since 2018, I think. Anyway, it is the car that got me started in this hobby, so it's time for it to see the road again soon!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



That looks gorgeous. 100% gonna buy one of those for black betty/my talon.


But, feels good to post here...I actually did something on my new DSM. Ripped the AEM EMS Series 2 out today, and it awaits ECMLink V3 full to take its place.
 
Volk tube front end and got the transfer case on yesterday. Little by little, it is coming back together, after sitting since 2018, I think. Anyway, it is the car that got me started in this hobby, so it's time for it to see the road again soon!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Wow that looks amazing!!! That transfer looks billet!
HOw much do I gotta fork over to get one of those Volk tube front ends...? NVM...I"ll look it up online...I don't even wanna ask what you paid for that transfer case...
 
Wow that looks amazing!!! That transfer looks billet!
HOw much do I gotta fork over to get one of those Volk tube front ends...? NVM...I"ll look it up online...I don't even wanna ask what you paid for that transfer case...
That's a transfercase brace.
 
The Freelancers and supporting vendors, along with the select few that we all also know, all contributed to these nice looking parts.
Big thanks to them!!!

Wow that looks amazing!!! That transfer looks billet!
HOw much do I gotta fork over to get one of those Volk tube front ends...? NVM...I"ll look it up online...I don't even wanna ask what you paid for that transfer case...
Well worth every dollar spent when you drive these little cars HARD. And look at all that room to work!!!
 
Upgraded to a Radium fuel rail, looking forward to doing some testing with the damper.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
That's a transfercase brace.
Frontline is located like 15 minutes from me. Definitely going to look at getting a brace once I'm done with this house purchase BS.
 
Upgraded to a Radium fuel rail, looking forward to doing some testing with the damper.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I currently have the Radium FPR+Damper on my car and it defiantly helps keep the fuel pressure more stable it seems like just by looking at my logs before and after. The fuel rail is definantly one of my next upgrades on my GVR4. How was the install?
 
Mostly interior stuff. In the past week, I Redid the spare tire cover from a piece of plywood and some cargo carpet liner. Replaced that janky passenger door handle and fixed the lock/window switch. Upgraded the rear speakers with some 6x9 pioneers. Today, i Pulled the carpet gave it a good wash and scrub, added some dynamat to the flooring. I plan on redoing the headliner once the fabric comes in next week.
 
Looked at them under the car covers as I left for work, thought about getting the part out for the 92 started, dreamed about the resto-mod of the 94 n/t. Then I remembered I still have to acquire a title for it and that's going to be a PITA...
 
I was having issues with my driver side door handle working which we all know they break. I have a spare handle for when that moment comes. However today was not the day. I would have to lift all the way up on the handle than find a sweet spot and pull to get the door open. I decided to take the panel off and look at the linkage and its components. I sprayed the moving parts down with wd40 and everything started working more smoothly, so i followed up with some white lithium grease. Gave it a test and we are back to working like new.

Also bought a bluetooth adaptor and installed it on my single din head unit. Head unit is a panasonic from 2006, still works great. I used the aux input on the back to wire the bluetooth adaptor to. So now the 2g has bluetooth functionality.
 
I currently have the Radium FPR+Damper on my car and it defiantly helps keep the fuel pressure more stable it seems like just by looking at my logs before and after. The fuel rail is definantly one of my next upgrades on my GVR4. How was the install?
Install was easy, just need to do your homework before ordering the Radium rail and make sure you get all the necessary fittings. I like the ORB banjo to AN on the end of the rail, really gives you clearance to the timing belt cover.
 
Thought I'd get a dress up piece for the engine bay, time to decide if I leave it raw or what color to anodize it.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Picked up some grey leather seats from a local guy a few months ago. Seats were in great condition for a 20+ year old car but had the typical faded spider cracks on the sides in the center of the photo if you zoom in, top near the head rest and the front of the seats.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Got a 4 step process from Clyde's after seeing it in a video. The dark gray color matched perfectly and the conditioner breathe some new life into the material. The gloss does get absorbed into the material after a day. Took about any hour. Youre suppose to wait a 24 hours between the dye and the conditioner.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This was my first time reconditioning leather, im sure there are cheaper ways to do this but worked out really well. The conditioner alone is probably a good purchase if your seats havent received any love in some years. Had a lot of product left over. Still need to catch up with a back seat locally.. Seen a few online but shipping makes it 3x what people locally were selling them for.

Leaving some info if anyone else is interested. Yes, i did use the detail brushes like he did since i have them, and I did use the damp clothe to take off some of the dye just to fill the spider cracks and spreading the conditioner with the microfiber towel was easier.

The video I followed...
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The coupon ( 40GIFT ) that gave me 40% off taking it from $94 to $60. You enter it at checkout.
 
Wow axles are way easier to install than I thought. Had more trouble with the rusty calipers and a wheel that was rusted on than the axle. Lol.
Really? I need to replace both axles and have debated on doing it myself since im about to replace my calipers/rotors, upper and lower control arms... I know the axle nuts are seized, but was more concerned that Id take everything apart only to not be able to remove them from the trans. But think i might give it a try.
 
Really? I need to replace both axles and have debated on doing it myself since im about to replace my calipers/rotors, upper and lower control arms... I know the axle nuts are seized, but was more concerned that Id take everything apart only to not be able to remove them from the trans. But think i might give it a try.
They pop out with a large screwdriver or prybar between the trans and axle knuckle. OEM ones pop out much easier than some after markets.
 
Really? I need to replace both axles and have debated on doing it myself since im about to replace my calipers/rotors, upper and lower control arms... I know the axle nuts are seized, but was more concerned that Id take everything apart only to not be able to remove them from the trans. But think i might give it a try.
soak the axle nuts in penetrating oil for a couple days if you can, and apply heat if you have to. A big ugga-dugga will make it a lot easier, but a breaker bar with a long cheater bar will do the trick in a pinch if you're real rusty.

as techboy mentioned, pop them out with a prybar on the other end, and they'll pop right out. For the passenger side, have a pan under the trans as you'll lose a little bit of fluid. There are many threads here on tuners, and some articles on the VFAQ if you need additional how-to.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top