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What did you do to your DSM today?

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Removed masking/bolts used to keep studs/hangars clear of undercoat..... Need to get some metric stainless bolts for fuel/brake line clips.

Put a second coat of high temp paint on undercar heat shield.

Scrubbed down gas tank.

Reinstalled gas tank. (Hopefully with straps in correct place.. Hooks (unused??) at back, brackets on front side going out towards sides of car?) :confused:

Started painting gas tank shield.

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Saturday I got a call from a buddy getting ready to scrap a 3kgt, and he asked if I wanted parts. So I went over and was only intending to buy the brakes, but ended up swapping the calipers, bought new rotors, and new forward lower control arms and the right hand rear lower control arm, and ended up hijacking all the brake lines from the 3kGT to bastardized myself a set of lines for the front and ziptied the hose to the strut.

Good part is I got new brakes, and the case stopped torque steering from stop lights. (Turns out lower ball joint was toast. And my the inboard brake pad was about the size of a credit card.)
 
Not today, but yesterday, I installed the hood pins/latches and finished the restoration on this hood I've been going on about. I think I may have over 20 hours into this thing, but the price was right.
What did you do to restore it? Mine's starting to show some cancer from the sun, if it's something I can fix myself I'll do it but I don't want to pay a body shop.

Give me good news!

:dsm:
 
If you go back to the last page it has all the steps:

Continuing progress on reviving a $100 carbon fiber hood. I'd knocked it down and brought it back once before, but wasn't happy with the final results once it finally dried completely. I didn't get deep enough into the clear and could still see some heavy hazing. Since I hadn't cleared it yet, I started all over. So far...

120 grit dry
120 grit wet
220 grit wet
600 grit wet

Still to go, 800w, 1000w, 1500w and 2000w. I'll likely clear it this evening. It's looking great so far.

More steps on progress after that one...


As for me:

I am fixing boostleaks, Ordered a new turbo outlet gasket and throttle body gaskets. My car warms up and goes into open loop and dies, the O2 isnt cycling, so I need to figure that out too.
 
What did you do to restore it? Mine's starting to show some cancer from the sun, if it's something I can fix myself I'll do it but I don't want to pay a body shop.

Give me good news!

:dsm:


Lots of wet sanding. Hours, nay! DAYS! of wet sanding went into the hood, but it was extremely bad.

I started over a few times due to finding I hadn't sanded far enough and was seeing discoloration still. Depending on how bad your hood is, pick an appropriate grit of paper and work your way up from there. I started with 120 dry and hadn't gone deep enough, only realizing it once I'd gotten to 2k wet. Just be careful to not go TOO deep.

If you plan to re-clear it, make sure you use an automotive grade clear coat to provide some UV protection and prevent future yellowing. I had my hood up to 1500 wet and shot it, but had a ton of runs. I cut them down with 180 dry, 180wet, 220w, ~400w, then 600 wet, then re-cleared it, in 4 very light coats. The clear layers were so thin, it was almost dry-sprayed. From there I went 400w or 600w up the chain to 2k wet, finishing it off with a buffing wheel and polishing compound (for paint, not metal).
 
Been fighting a clutch issue, started two months ago and swapped out the clutch master. Issues came up again so I figured the slave went. Replaced that, bled it for 2 hours and never got it back up to operating pressure, it wouldn't go into gear. So I pulled the master again and took it back for a new one. Still in the same boat, thinking the napa slave was bad out of the box. I pulled apart the oem unit and cleaned it up, it wasn't leaking but it was sticking a little. Cleaned out the bore and piston, seals were fine so I threw a little assembly lube on the seals and slapped it back together and it was as smooth as glass. Hopefully I can just use the cleaned up oem one and take that napa junk back.

Just hoping its not a bigger issue, although I havent had any type of slipping issues. It just randomly stopped going into gear.
 
Saturday I got a call from a buddy getting ready to scrap a 3kgt, and he asked if I wanted parts. So I went over and was only intending to buy the brakes, but ended up swapping the calipers, bought new rotors, and new forward lower control arms and the right hand rear lower control arm, and ended up hijacking all the brake lines from the 3kGT to bastardized myself a set of lines for the front and ziptied the hose to the strut.

Good part is I got new brakes, and the case stopped torque steering from stop lights. (Turns out lower ball joint was toast. And my the inboard brake pad was about the size of a credit card.)
Update: Noticed the passenger side brake is singing while I'm driving, and has two trails of something dragging on the rotor. Joy, upgrade to different problems. Tho to be fair, the passenger brake caliper from the 3000GT looks like it was scorched now that I can see it in daylight. . . Think bit might have had a brake fire before. Jolly good... FML
 
Over the last few days I put in my fmic and also replaced my transmission. Got sick and then had to take a break. It's almost all the way back together now.

Pics, everyone loves pics!
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Omg. Very dirty and very tired. Need a shower!
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Drove this little drama queen home, only for it to die and need to be trailered home.


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And so far what I've been doing all day is removing stickers to clean it up. Eventually will need to dive into the motor to see what went wrong.
 
Drove this little drama queen home, only for it to die and need to be trailered home.


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And so far what I've been doing all day is removing stickers to clean it up. Eventually will need to dive into the motor to see what went wrong.
Nice looking car! I would love to have a 1g awd with some popup headlights.
 
Got package from RTM...

Outlander caliper brackets/new fuel hoses/fuel filter

Sandblasted fuel return/fill/vent/vapour recovery hose clamps
Sandblasted rear subframe washers/metal bushing inserts

Discovered that Mitsu used different grade bolts on 2000 GT rear upper suspension arms

tsi awd bolts are marked 10 ..... caliper bolts are also 10
2000 GT bolts are marked 4
 
Donkey punched my little bi***... clutch master gave out again. So much for trustworthy dsm'ers selling "low mileage, near new, not leaking, perfect" parts.... me and Jack say, #### yo couches... yes couches, multiple burns on parts, could have bought new by now but put my faith in some ass holes. Being a bartender/manager, the 15+ hours I've put into swapping parts and bleeding/adjusting shit on shit parts I've lost about... oh, $900 or so in my personal relaxation time.

Do you ever just want to give up? That's me right now.
 
Underside of car has too much black... Gave it some accents.

Mirror orange powder coat on:
rear subframe washers/bushings
fuel/brake line clips
hose clamps

High temp Muffler black (1200F) on driveshaft bushing protector

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Since bushings aren't available for some of the rear control arms, I cleaned 4 new lower arms, masked the bushing areas, and gave them a good coat of gloss black tremclad over the oem paint.
 
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Doing this literally right now
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVzuuUchAzc]alkdflkarowue - YouTube[/ame]

For a new controller board for these
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HEEoOqFAxg]1991 Eagle Talon TSi Custom LED taillights - YouTube[/ame]

Translation:
Fabbing an "all-in-one" board because I did not want to put up with 4 power boards and 3 various controller boards again this year, ghetto'd to a piece of thick cardboard. And this time, it's going to fit into a plastic enclosure. This new one is also bluetooth enabled and controlled by an Android app.
 
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