What did you do to your DSM today?

[Archer Fabrications]

Did that, no dice .

Fire!

 

[screamingdemon]

Hit dat chit with a torch till its glowin, let it cool completely then slam it with that impact wrench.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Really? On the flywheel? Isnt there a chance that will damage the crankshaft? Smashing on it I mean.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Use a long pry bar, i dont have an impact wrench and thats what i do for stubborn bolts. I even welded a bolt in one of my ofh plugs to get it out cause it was stripped so bad and i needed it for the holset.

 

[1990AWD]

Really? On the flywheel? Isnt there a chance that will damage the crankshaft? Smashing on it I mean.

Well you're not gonna take a sledge and wail on it, so no. Just heat the bolt and let it cool so it shrinks and give it a couple solid taps with a ball peen. Just be careful not to get too much heat near the friction surface of the flywheel.

 

[LOLVTEC]

Installed an nrg quick release only to find out I can't use my horn!

 

[3kgt2nv]

got my plastidip after a month wait from dip your car

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1st coat

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2nd coat

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5 coats of white

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finished

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Just got my stant 170* thermostat and some new coolant! Oil change and filter change this weekend! Hoping for 185* -190 max temp

 

[screamingdemon]

got my plastidip after a month wait from dip your car

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1st coat

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2nd coat

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5 coats of white

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finished

Moar pix!

 

[Bud92gsx]

Im about to part the F***ing thing out.

I got a leak under the timing cover, well the cover is off and i cant find the F***ing leak.So maybe I sghould part the car out but then I got no flipping car..

 

[FLASH1970]

Im about to part the F***ing thing out.

I got a leak under the timing cover, well the cover is off and i cant find the F***ing leak.So maybe I sghould part the car out but then I got no flipping car..

How do you know a leak was under the timing cover? Maybe it was somewhere else. I had a leak where it wouldn't do it at idle, but as soon as I rev'd it up it leaked due to the oil pump building more pressure... maybe try that if you only checked for a leak while it was idling.

Oh, and I drove my 99 today, as usual. And did some tuning on it. Tuning > being on time to work. I drive 120 miles a day and with gas prices going up, I figured cruise tuning was more important.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Draining coolant to put in a new stant 170* t stat! And gutted the trunk all out.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Any of you guys use zerex antifreeze? It's red, havent seen red coolant before

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[Spanky_DSM]

Ive only seen red coolant on GM cars, But i would stick to the ole good Green Gatoraide. Regardless im sure it shouldnt cause problems.

Edit: Car was down for about a week, and got my car running today. Replace rod bearings. AWD sucks when it comes to taking off the oil pan

And gonna give it a wash in a few minutes

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Says good for all brands emphisises gm yes, but it says plymoth and christler. ? Heh

Read bad things, off i go to flush it .

 

[1990AWD]

There's four colors of antifreeze, green, yellow, red and purple. You can mix yellow and green and red and purple but not green with red for example.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well heres what i did. I had prestone in it originally. (I think I'd considered it green, but could be yellow) There was still yellow/green in the block (prestone) after i posted that i was gonna drain the red i had just filled with. i flushed with distilled water and then filled up with distilled water and let idle til warm, drained the whole system, then filled with premixed prestone. It says mixes with all colors. Hope I'll be fine.

 

[gofer]

You're going to hate me for saying this but I'll bet your idle CT's still hover around 200*.

Ask me how I know the 170* t-stat wasn't enough. My 180* t-stat kept CT's at 200 ~ 203* and installing the 170* t-stat had no effect on it. I just installed a 146* t-stat, if that doesn't keep things cooler out here in the desert then I'm throwing in the towel.

200*'ish CT's aren't bad but lowering them to around 180*'ish would be nice, might be able to get away with a bit more with the tune.

 

[1990AWD]

I went from a stock 195* thermostat running consistent 200-203* (203 is when fans kick in) to a 180* thermostat and now I'm usually in the 186-190 range. When it's colder out I'd be in the 170s.

Granted I'm not making near as much power but the cooling system is bone stock, without any ducting and a fmic in front.

If you're not getting colder with a lower thermostat, then the problem lies with having too small a rad, plugged rad, not enough airflow, etc.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You're going to hate me for saying this but I'll bet your idle CT's still hover around 200*.

Ask me how I know the 170* t-stat wasn't enough. My 180* t-stat kept CT's at 200 ~ 203* and installing the 170* t-stat had no effect on it. I just installed a 146* t-stat, if that doesn't keep things cooler out here in the desert then I'm throwing in the towel.

200*'ish CT's aren't bad but lowering them to around 180*'ish would be nice, might be able to get away with a bit more with the tune.

Yeah i used your post for that t stat. It got to 200 at idle(which it waa before) but took longer to get there. i havent cruised it yet but I'm hoping it's at least at 190. Was at a steady 200-203. If it doesn't work, I'll have to add ducting and a second fan, I'm only running stock passenger fan on a koyo rad.

 

[gofer]

Sorry to hear that. I think a big part of CT's doing cruising speeds above 30mph is radiator ducting. This new radiator setup I'm working on, including the 146* t-stat, will be ran at first with no ducting to see where CT's stand. Then, once I get solid data, I'll "rig" up my cardboard/tape radiator to FMIC ducting and if CT's even drop 5* I'll be finding a more permanent ducting solution like ABS plastic.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Why not some thin wall aluminium? I'll prob do that. Got a good link on how to set up proper ducting? Do you just seal from the rad tp the ic so air is forced though both?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Why not some thin wall aluminium? I'll prob do that. Got a good link on how to set up proper ducting? Do you just seal from the rad tp the ic so air is forced though both?

Here's what I did:

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I made sure my hood is well sealed at the back, and use weather stripping between the IC and the bumper cover/mask.

This means path of least resistance is through the IC and Radiator/oil cooler then out the bottom off the engine bay. I have my fans mounted as pullers on the front of the Radiator.

Putting your hand as far as a foot in front of my IC ducting feels like a wind tunnel. Fans are SPAL brand.

I've thought about making vents over through ducts on an outside curve over the front fenders/quarterpanels, where there should be relatively fast moving (lower pressure) airflow.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Cruised to school with183- 186 CT's idle 186-190 woohoo and only one oem fan on a huge koyo with a manifold to rad clearance pf 1/4 inch. Turbo blanket should help greatly also.

 

[blindboarder_02]

Bought another dsm last week. 2g tsi with 6bolt swap and 7bolt head, Big 16g. Had to do Tbelt, tensioner, idler bearing, water pump, A/C delete, aluminum radiator, slim fans, cam seals, crank seal, black interior swap from my 2gnt panda, brakes and valve cover.

Tonight she rolls out for the first time. Feels good to have done the refresh on the engine. She sounds good.

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