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That looks more like crap in/on the conformal coating.

*edit* damn, steve beat me to it.

That's not to say there is a component failure, though. I'd be potentially swapping ECUs if I had that many things wrong, but that's only because I'm not super familiar with the ECU itself -- they may share a single or set of base components where a failure exists.

If the ECU isn't seeing a proper RPM signal, the entire engine control would be bunk. What have you checked/replaced that reports RPM to the ECU? Just curious -- you've got a lot of experience here I would surmise from your years of DSM service.
 
What are you trying to show us? The spots in the conformal coating are normal.
The other side is usually more interesting.
I guess to me it looked "abnormal," but then again I'm not a computer or tech person. I didn't see anything obvious on the other side like leaking caps or blown drivers.
 
While working on an E85 tune with Kevin Jewer we uncovered some strange, inconsistent break up at full load low in the RPM range (Spoiler alert, its an easy fix) Literally I'd do a pull and as low as 3500 the CEL would light up, I get out of it, stomp right back into it and it would pull clean to 7k. I noticed it more so when it would get hot.

Swapped BPR7ES for BR7ES gapped at .020, same. I'm thinking it seems like a coil issue to me. Sure as shit, upon pulling 1-4 coil pack I see arcing flash marks all over the bracket. Nice! Easy fix. I ordered a new Delphi coil pack from wrong auto and the damn box is BEAT to hell and back but the coil pack appeared OK, until I go to plug the 4-3 spark plug wire in. The damn frame separated from the inside of the coil. It's 1 day past the 30 day return, my fault for not inspecting more thoroughly.

But, I still make some lemonade here, haha. OE 4-3 and a freshie 1-4 coil, bam, back in business! Made a couple small link adjustments, then, low and behold, she's rock steady on every single pull on what seems like the hottest day of the year. 🤘🤘🤘
Stay smart out there in this heat!

Rob
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The bastard bracket was loaded wrong in the machine so I flipped it, drilled and tapped new holes for the PTU. Turned out A, OK.
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I guess to me it looked "abnormal," but then again I'm not a computer or tech person. I didn't see anything obvious on the other side like leaking caps or blown drivers.
Makes me think of young Frankenstein when he asks Igor what brain he got and he says he's can't remember...Abby, Abby Normal. 😂😂😂
Looked like some weird cheese to me, too. Haha.
 
I guess to me it looked "abnormal," but then again I'm not a computer or tech person. I didn't see anything obvious on the other side like leaking caps or blown drivers.
Don't worry, before I knew what conformal coating was, the first time I saw an aged PCB with it I thought the whole thing was corroded.
The idea that it could look like that and yet be completely normal was quite the foreign concept.

.. in fact, I think the first time I was ever really introduced to conformal coatings was when I opened up my 1g FWD Federal ECU back in 2009.
 
Makes me think of young Frankenstein when he asks Igor what brain he got and he says he's can't remember...Abby, Abby Normal. 😂😂😂
Looked like some weird cheese to me, too. Haha.

“Oh Abby someone. Abby….Normal..”


Love that movie.
 
Don't worry, before I knew what conformal coating was, the first time I saw an aged PCB with it I thought the whole thing was corroded.
The idea that it could look like that and yet be completely normal was quite the foreign concept.

.. in fact, I think the first time I was ever really introduced to conformal coatings was when I opened up my 1g FWD Federal ECU back in 2009.
Have you ever seen inside a "Lean Burn" computer module from the 70-80's. It is about a 1/2 of Jell that my boss scrubbed clean to just try and figure those dam things out. We finally took every Lean Burn computer OFF of the customers cars and put a regular distributor in them to cure issues. Those things were CRUDE!
 
Not a whole hell of a lot today.
Dropped my head stuff off at machine shop and picked up my rods and pistons that had a amall end adjustment to .001 clearance.

Cleaned the crank for the 4th and 5th time.

Then it went downhill.. I think the heat was getting to me.

Got some brake cleaner spray splatter on my bearings but didn't seem to affect them after a wipe down.

Cleaned the crank journals really well but neglected to do the same for the lobes. Got the bearings and saddles all clean, lubed with assembly grease, dropped the crank in and was in the process of putting the studs in when I noticed shit attached to the lobes.

Opted to not try and clean them later and just pull it all apart and try again from step 1. I'd rather I clean the bearings, crank, and saddles of assembly lube and do a better job than allow that much crap in the engine. Those poor bearings have been in and out at least four times now.

Won't be able to get back to it until Thursday :(
 
Been trying to figure out why my endplay with just the upper thrust shell in has been changing so much. Upon closer inspection, the bearing itself is shifting sideways 2-3 thousandths. I didn't even think that was possible.
Explains why I was seeing 7 without #3 cap but only 4-5 with the cap. questioning whether it's even possible to align this shit.

Ive had this crank out 4 or 5 times so far, I'm getting pretty fed up.
 
I converted my 1990 headlights to LEDs today. I used an eBay harness to convert from negative switched to positive switched. The harness didn’t plug into the factory socket since some of the terminal angles were different. I broke apart the eBay harness plug to make it work. I just need to lengthen the drivers side harness. I didn’t want to run it in front of the radiator support.

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Finished painting one caliper, I'm really busy and only work on my 2G eclipse on my free time, so progress is slow.

I like this a thousand times more than the rusty mess they were before, it's metallic paint although only really shines when the sun hits them, quite cool.

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Been trying to figure out why my endplay with just the upper thrust shell in has been changing so much. Upon closer inspection, the bearing itself is shifting sideways 2-3 thousandths. I didn't even think that was possible.
Explains why I was seeing 7 without #3 cap but only 4-5 with the cap. questioning whether it's even possible to align this shit.

Ive had this crank out 4 or 5 times so far, I'm getting pretty fed up.
Checked two of my random ACL #3 bearing shells from different sets, both have the same exact inner dimension to the thousandth. Even my King XPs on a different block and crank give me 2-3 thou extra endplay with just the upper in because the shell shifts ever so slightly when unclamped.

It's one of those things I never measured before and just found kind of startling. I don't even think it IS one of those things you're supposed to measure.

But once you torque down the cap, that puts clamp load on the bearings and locks the two together.. so as long as they're aligned on the rear thrust face and they're the same width (they are, I checked) then the oil wedge should do its job.
There really is no possibility that only ONE of the shells can move laterally independent of the other.
 
While working on an E85 tune with Kevin Jewer we uncovered some strange, inconsistent break up at full load low in the RPM range (Spoiler alert, its an easy fix) Literally I'd do a pull and as low as 3500 the CEL would light up, I get out of it, stomp right back into it and it would pull clean to 7k. I noticed it more so when it would get hot.

Swapped BPR7ES for BR7ES gapped at .020, same. I'm thinking it seems like a coil issue to me. Sure as shit, upon pulling 1-4 coil pack I see arcing flash marks all over the bracket. Nice! Easy fix. I ordered a new Delphi coil pack from wrong auto and the damn box is BEAT to hell and back but the coil pack appeared OK, until I go to plug the 4-3 spark plug wire in. The damn frame separated from the inside of the coil. It's 1 day past the 30 day return, my fault for not inspecting more thoroughly.

But, I still make some lemonade here, haha. OE 4-3 and a freshie 1-4 coil, bam, back in business! Made a couple small link adjustments, then, low and behold, she's rock steady on every single pull on what seems like the hottest day of the year. 🤘🤘🤘
Stay smart out there in this heat!

Rob
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The bastard bracket was loaded wrong in the machine so I flipped it, drilled and tapped new holes for the PTU. Turned out A, OK.
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how do you like the delphi ones? better than oem?
 
Checked two of my random ACL #3 bearing shells from different sets, both have the same exact inner dimension to the thousandth. Even my King XPs on a different block and crank give me 2-3 thou extra endplay with just the upper in because the shell shifts ever so slightly when unclamped.

It's one of those things I never measured before and just found kind of startling. I don't even think it IS one of those things you're supposed to measure.

But once you torque down the cap, that puts clamp load on the bearings and locks the two together.. so as long as they're aligned on the rear thrust face and they're the same width (they are, I checked) then the oil wedge should do its job.
There really is no possibility that only ONE of the shells can move laterally independent of the other.
Has the thrust surface that holds the bearing been reduced, fractional, some how, like wear sometime, somehow? Letting the bearings shift? Just a stupid question. Measure that width on the block and then let's compare numbers. Just a thought. Crossing my fingers that you can get her buttoned up and reliable.
 
Has the thrust surface that holds the bearing been reduced, fractional, some how, like wear sometime, somehow? Letting the bearings shift? Just a stupid question. Measure that width on the block and then let's compare numbers. Just a thought. Crossing my fingers that you can get her buttoned up and reliable.
The ACLs are BNIB, and I grabbed a random #3 from my other box and compared it to the cap one since I didn't remove the crank for the 6th or so time. Exact same inner dimension flange to flange.

The block is undamaged and the #3 saddle had zero indications of marring, or rework. No spun bearings etc. it's basically a virgin JDM block but did have some rebuild work done on it fews ago.
New bearings, and the like. Still had stock valve seals best I can tell from their condition.

I'm really wondering, how many of us bother to check endplay with just the upper shell in? Is it even realistic to do so?

Here's a pic from earlier, you can see there is a bit of a gap
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Interestingly, at 40lbfts I was measuring about 0.00375, best guess. Once I got it to 60, it went to 4.

I don't know how many times I can do this before I end up junking the bearings.

All I know is the girdle is torqued down and I can't slip a .002 between the cap bearing and crank like I could the first time when I used the whack-a-crank method. This time I seated the cap, pried the crank forward like a thrust load would, and simulatenously pried the cap towards the trans side. Whilst holding these two in place, i torqued down to 40 (since everybody else was 40 already). Or maybe it was 20. I have a piss poor memory apparently because I also gave it a couple whacks with a deadblow and dowel too, but can't remember when.. they're all 60 now tho
LOL
 
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Just got back from an 8 day vacation but the day before I left, took the car to the track and pulling up to the line the loud pedal felt funny, well when I reached 1320' and went to let off the gas, it didn't LOL. Within a second or 2 I hit the power kill switch and coasted to the end(by coasted I mean on the brakes hard and smoking once stopped, I was at full power for probably 1520' LOL)

Found this laying in my catch pan.

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The good thing is it didn't eat either screw.


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GD Jason. How HARD do you have to mash that thing? ROFL
Looks like a weak TB shaft casting and WOT has nothing to do with your situation usually, but slapping it closed would. That sure is weird and SUPER GLAD it didn't injest any foreign material ! :thumb:
I think bigger shaft sizes should be used on bigger throttle bodies. It only limits a minute amount of cfm. :hmm:
 
Just the radiator and the heat shield for the wastegate ….. still thinking on selling it….
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love the clean bay. I'm surprised when i was down there last month i didn't see any dsm's besides a few mirages.
 
GD Jason. How HARD do you have to mash that thing? ROFL
Looks like a weak TB shaft casting and WOT has nothing to do with your situation usually, but slapping it closed would. That sure is weird and SUPER GLAD it didn't injest any foreign material ! :thumb:
I think bigger shaft sizes should be used on bigger throttle bodies. It only limits a minute amount of cfm. :hmm:
Yup this is an OLD Accufab, they shaved the shaft down to be as thin as possible, I don't like it.

I'm moving to an RMR throttle body, they're proven to be much better.
 
So again NOT my car but as no build on it I will place there here for now.

The Talon im restoring is not almost all apart, front frame is left to come out and the big bulky items are now at the blasters. For prep

The smaller items and more detailed items I have done as seen here. Its eaten some of the material due to the corrosion but its safe and still not to bad to worry about. The worst affected was the 3 bolt front frame bolt on plate/shaft. Had the most metal eaten from the corrosion but safe still to not be a concern. Im going to draw these up for the future and the pin. Likely wont need it as now its being fixed it wont be a problem With its new coating.


Another item that needed addressing was the fuel/brake line holders. While the plastic was actually fine and not brittle the metal brackets have seen better days! They are wear from corrosion and fracture when you lightly flex them so thats bad news. So in the effort to fight this I made these from stainless and will then be blasted snd painted black also this is just part of the stealth / oem look as once was.

I dont have pictures of the next part yet but once i do i can update that item i have designed for this restoration,this was done as the items not available any longer so came up with a good combo for it.

So far this car has come apart really well. Almost all the bolts are non corroded on the shank and only nuts and heads are corroded so everythings been a breeze to remove and come out this far.

Really looking forward to getting this back together as its going to look amazing with the new hardware and coatings on!

Just a FEW LOL pics of the before and after of the corroded parts and brackets

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I love the "little things"!!! Attention to detail. Keep us posted, for sure :thumb:
 
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