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What did you do to your DSM today?

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The fluid damper is the one I bought and is on the shelf waiting for me to install. I would personally run a stock harmonic balancer before the lightweight pulley.

-Daniel
I'll look into it and see if I can pick up one of the fluidamper. I mean it is kind of one of those parts you invest in and can run for the lifetime of a few cars haha. Thank you for the suggestion. I guess the belts not working out and this conversation was for a reason!
 
Off topic but I'm assuming these bolt holes are for the manifold support bracket and I have no idea what this bracket is for

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If thats a 1g block the two by your thumb are likely motor mount bosses.
 
Stayed up late last night installing the fpr. No longer overrunning the fuel pump when reversing into the garage after getting it dialed in this afternoon. Going to try to mount it better, just wanted to make sure it was gonna work correctly first. Thought I f***ed it all up last night when i started the car and it ran horribly, but I had accidentally swapped two of the spark plug wires. Only had a bright blue vacuum line because everything likes to disappear on me when i start a project.

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.... then I found pool of antifreeze under the car and cant find exactly where its coming from. Only leaks when it warms up... Do those parts store loaner kits have the right fitting for Mitsubishis so i can pressure test it?
 
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Got all motivated and started from scratch on the DSM's ECMLink settings. Finally calibrated the fuel system as a result, and the car idles, cruises, and accelerates so much better than before. Night and day difference.


Hit almost 30lbs/min on only 11lbs of boost. Honestly pretty stoked with that, considering it's pretty bog standard timing/afr maps and nothing crazy. Once I have some good new tires, and the clutch is broken in, we'll see what mid-high 20's can do on pump. :D


I do think I'll probably have to change the alternator, or at least some of the relay/fuses soon though. Because soon as you turn the lights on, the idle gets weird/it struggles to idle. Voltage according to Link isn't horrible, but I've been doing some reading and it's a pretty good sign of a dying alternator if idle is a struggle when the headlights are turned on. Still though, very happy!
 
Got all motivated and started from scratch on the DSM's ECMLink settings. Finally calibrated the fuel system as a result, and the car idles, cruises, and accelerates so much better than before. Night and day difference.


Hit almost 30lbs/min on only 11lbs of boost. Honestly pretty stoked with that, considering it's pretty bog standard timing/afr maps and nothing crazy. Once I have some good new tires, and the clutch is broken in, we'll see what mid-high 20's can do on pump. :D


I do think I'll probably have to change the alternator, or at least some of the relay/fuses soon though. Because soon as you turn the lights on, the idle gets weird/it struggles to idle. Voltage according to Link isn't horrible, but I've been doing some reading and it's a pretty good sign of a dying alternator if idle is a struggle when the headlights are turned on. Still though, very happy!
Take a voltmeter to the battery terminals while it's running and see what the voltage is at and see where it reads when the headlights are turned on. That will give you a good idea of where your alternator stands on a general scope. Sorry I know that's like "no duh" stuff bit just throwing that out there for a first line of testing
 
Looking back on it I face palmed myself for that! (I'm cracking up pretty good haha) I should just delete it but I'll leave it up for everyone's enjoyment

Also, for general info, the oem belt size doesn't fit with the unorthodox racing crank pulley that I have on. Part number K040320 from Gates should fit. Will order and test it out.
I was like wait, I’m not that high…right?
 
Take a voltmeter to the battery terminals while it's running and see what the voltage is at and see where it reads when the headlights are turned on. That will give you a good idea of where your alternator stands on a general scope. Sorry I know that's like "no duh" stuff bit just throwing that out there for a first line of testing
I'd sort of argue the voltage in Link is a better indicator, as it also includes drop from wiring, which could be potentially bad just due to corrosion and weak connections. But you don't need a scalpel to figure out if your alternator is crapping out on you, the multimeter method works just fine that way.

Link volts can be monitored during cruising to see alternator heatsoak in various load conditions if stationary tests aren't revealing.
 
Played around with my hood bump extension/duct. I think I have room for aerocatch hood pins now after moving it back.

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Got my tb elbow back in with iat sensor hooked up.(don't mind my mismatched bov pipe it'll be replaced too🤣🤣🤣) Started on battery relocation, got grounding points done, need to buy breaker and power wire to run to the trunk. Baby steps. Gonna clean the dirtyness in the trunk and put it back together.

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Stayed up late last night installing the fpr. No longer overrunning the fuel pump when reversing into the garage after getting it dialed in this afternoon. Going to try to mount it better, just wanted to make sure it was gonna work correctly first. Thought I f***ed it all up last night when i started the car and it ran horribly, but I had accidentally swapped two of the spark plug wires. Only had a bright blue vacuum line because everything likes to disappear on me when i start a project.

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.... then I found pool of antifreeze under the car and cant find exactly where its coming from. Only leaks when it warms up... Do those parts store loaner kits have the right fitting for Mitsubishis so i can pressure test it?
Do you have silicon hoses they tend to leak until warm mine drips for like 3 minutes and stops
 
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