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What did you do to your DSM today?

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Just take your time and try to get it to go through the back end. (After the 15min) Yeah it can be a minor hassle but in the end you'll know it's done by the book. Tbh, I think it should be fine. But 95% of the guys on here will recommend you to just do it "right".
Yeah and I am trying to get it as by the book as possible due to this being my first DSM and engine rebuild so I'm trying to make troubleshooting easier if need be down the road hahaha (but I'm really hoping that I don't have to). I feel that it should be okay but I will revisit the pin tomorrow and see what it looks like
 
Yeah and I am trying to get it as by the book as possible due to this being my first DSM and engine rebuild so I'm trying to make troubleshooting easier if need be down the road hahaha (but I'm really hoping that I don't have to). I feel that it should be okay but I will revisit the pin tomorrow and see what it looks like
Well, by the book involves measuring torque on the tensioner pulley rotation itself. However, through trial and error, it was found that it just so happens to coincide with being able to freely slide the pin through the front and back holes on the tensioner, I suppose. I've always done it by the pin way and I've done it almost a dozen times over the years and never threw a belt or smashed a valve.

There's lots of opportunities for "that'll do" along the way on a build, many of them are justified, but timing is not one of them.
 
Well, by the book involves measuring torque on the tensioner pulley rotation itself. However, through trial and error, it was found that it just so happens to coincide with being able to freely slide the pin through the front and back holes on the tensioner, I suppose. I've always done it by the pin way and I've done it almost a dozen times over the years and never threw a belt or smashed a valve.

There's lots of opportunities for "that'll do" along the way on a build, many of them are justified, but timing is not one of them.
I actually did use an in-lb tourque wrench on the tensioner pulley but doesn't look like it helped much. Had it set to 31 in-lbs which is the 2.6 ft-lbs the book calls for. I may have had the rod a thread in too far when I was pushing in the tensioner arm but I checked the pin when tourque was applied to the pulley and it was fine. If it doesn't lift by tomorrow I'll go back and re-do it. I do agree though with the mentality but I can't leave the "that will do" things alone and that's why this build has been taking forever haha

Tangent but do the 2g eclipse engine lift brackets fit the 1g head? Reason I'm asking is because the 1g rear one won't fit because the throttle body I have has the linkage on the opposite side of OEM
 
Pulled shifter cables because it's been hard to get into 5/ reverse since I bought the car.

Not to my surprise, found the end of the shifter cables bent

Was actually able to bend it straight and now 5/R is butter!

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Tangent but do the 2g eclipse engine lift brackets fit the 1g head? Reason I'm asking is because the 1g rear one won't fit because the throttle body I have has the linkage on the opposite side of OEM
I think I've only used a bracket once.
Every other time I use thick straps under the oil pan and trans. I'm not advocating that this works for everyone, though. I don't even use a leveller.
Ask me how easy it is each time I've had to do it.. :rolleyes:
 
Tangent but do the 2g eclipse engine lift brackets fit the 1g head? Reason I'm asking is because the 1g rear one won't fit because the throttle body I have has the linkage on the opposite side of OEM
Boostedfab makes some and they're not gen specific so I guess they should work for you, maybe.
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I saw those but projected timeline from order to being ready is about 8-10 weeks. However with the wiring mess I'm in I don't think I'll have the engine back in during that timeline anyway so might pick those up
 
Put a fresh water pump gasket on since I botched the gasket the first time around. I didn’t have the radiator in so I couldn’t leak test it the first try. Used some fresh bolts from Jmztuning. The belt took me too many tries to get tensioned correctly.

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Got my gas tank for the Talon put back together, painted, and back in the car today. I was pleasantly surprised that everything went smoothly and nothing broke! Lol

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It actually saw the light of day.

After swapping wheels on the Lancer I took a break then proceeded to get a few things done on the Talon.

I pushed it out of the garage and into the beautiful day.

I proceeded to clean the garagebas well as pull all the 1gb parts that were stacked on it off and put them in the shed.

I then saw the layer of dust.

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I decided to give it a quick wash

Afterwards

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I then proceeded to carefully unbolt the front seats so I can pull them to fully clean the interior. That will have to happen another day, but the weather getting better is motivating me to get things done.

For now I'm going to focus on getting everything cleaned back up and getting the 1gb swap completed so I at least have a "whole car"

Then I'll jump to the driveline.
 
Working on interior and wiring then getting ready for a bracket for radiator. Miscellaneous stuff and setting up flex fuel stiff and more work.

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Now that the weather is drying up I'm able to do some odds and ends on the car. Did my carbon airbag delete. Double sided tape and epoxy didn't hold, had to go crazy with the Gorilla construction adhesive and a caulking gun.

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Serious question, what manufacturers/relabellers ship their injectors with data sheets that are built using DSM drivers? I'm genuinely curious which ones cater to our platform the best

I've only ever run FIC but, that being said, I've only ever run one set.. low Z 750s. Same set, multiple cars. I based my initial deadline numbers off others from here (330 iirc) and tweaked from there. I was warned early on everyone's car is different and you might need to alter slightly. I assume the same even with the high z 1200s I'm going to be using from now on.

I mean, I'm putting in injectors that are almost four times larger than factory. I think it's safe to say I should know what I'm doing before I even start but initial values to begin with are helpful and if the driver they use won't get you anywhere close.. why even include that sheet? Last thing I want to do is flood my brand new engine with fuel trying to get a deadtime to work.

Hmm perhaps I should start with the 750s until it's broken in LOL
 
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Deadtime is an arbitrary value based on many variables. It would be near impossible for any dealer to say here's the values, drive off.

If they gave values based on a DSM ECU driver, and said here's the other variables, and this is just a guide, cool. But to give specific numbers that are derived from nothing specific to us is either incompetence or a lack of caring. It reminds me of SBR 20 years ago shilling their parts and turbos on a destroked 2.1L with high compression. Like, these examples of your item performing means zero to us. You might as well give us performance stats tested on a H22 with 13:1 compression. Granted SBR was trying to pull one over where I feel FIC is not.

Anyways my point is don't give injectors advertised specifically for DSMs and give non-DSM information with them. Some people take those values as gospel and they get F'd over as the car never works right and that is bad for the community.
 
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While the numbers are by no means perfect for every case, would what FIC provide at least get the engine started and running without flooding to point where you can fine tune from there?
I would expect those that are putting in massive injectors are doing so because they're going big(ger) power, which requires a lot of other tuning. Nothing just goes 100% at 1000cc+ level on a tiny motor, regardless of what the vendor says. I'm with you that numbers should be provided that reflect the platform they're designed for, but how close are we talking?

Not to purposely cherry pick because it's what I have, but for a set of High-Z 1200s, how far off is a 'proper tune' from what FIC provided on paper, generally speaking? The pulsewidth is pretty damn small at 1200 at idle to begin with so how much percentage of deviation are we really seeing?
 
Installed a new wbo2 and got it wired in to simulate the front o2. Used a spare Mitsu relay to power it up. Adjusted the SD table to get idle afr back in the 14.7ish range which finally put the car into closed loop

While I had everything apart I installed the hood opener latch. I was missing the metal behind the plastic that it screws onto I think I tossed it like an idiot

Lastly changed the negative battery terminal that snapped on me

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While the numbers are by no means perfect for every case, would what FIC provide at least get the engine started and running without flooding to point where you can fine tune from there?
I would expect those that are putting in massive injectors are doing so because they're going big(ger) power, which requires a lot of other tuning. Nothing just goes 100% at 1000cc+ level on a tiny motor, regardless of what the vendor says. I'm with you that numbers should be provided that reflect the platform they're designed for, but how close are we talking?

Not to purposely cherry pick because it's what I have, but for a set of High-Z 1200s, how far off is a 'proper tune' from what FIC provided on paper, generally speaking? The pulsewidth is pretty damn small at 1200 at idle to begin with so how much percentage of deviation are we really seeing?
I haven't tested either way so I do not know. They might get you the general shape. Maybe a shape between stock and the one provided is better. No idea. All said and done though the numbers simply won't be correct. Keep in mind deadtime is largely influenced by voltage and base fuel pressure - something we all have different.
 
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Permanently mounted new billet thermo housing. Waiting on a 3mm thick wrench to squeeze into a tight spot.

Replaced 10yr old wideband sensor and fan temp sensor.

Ready to add coolant and make sure fans kick on once warmed up. Then back to breaking in with driving.

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