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What Cooling Setup Are You Using To Keep Temps Down?

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spadepro22

15+ Year Contributor
1,206
10
Mar 13, 2008
Seneca, South_Carolina
With both slim fans running I see 193* temps and if I get on it they go to 216-223. Same temps if I'm crusing with them off(and idle). I'm getting the motor pulled Saturday and this is something that I need to look into while its out. My setup is OEM radiator with 2 slim fans(not sure of brand) and 180* T-stat. Whats your setup and your temps?
 
I have a Mishimoto radiator with 2 slim fans. That was not enough to keep the temps down where I feel comfortable. So I went and had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated from Swain Tech, and I also made a heat shield out of stainless steel. With that combo, the temps have fallen a good 8 to 10 degrees. Car now runs around 205; 210 at most.
 
216*-223* is just fine.

A cold engine wears faster and produces less power.

Some basic cooling system math for you.

Water boils at *212 @ sea level

For every lb your radiator cap holds add +3*

A DSM cap is rated to 13lbs

SO 13 X 3* = 39*

Now add 212* + 39* = 251*

So your boil over, run hot temp is 251*
 
216*-223* is just fine.

A cold engine wears faster and produces less power.

Some basic cooling system math for you.

Water boils at *212 @ sea level

For every lb your radiator cap holds add +3*

A DSM cap is rated to 13lbs

SO 13 X 3* = 39*

Now add 212* + 39* = 251*

So your boil over, run hot temp is 251*

Good info thanks. Had some people and a reputable tuner tell me I need to get them down. What you guys average temps?
 
216*-223* is just fine.

A cold engine wears faster and produces less power.

Some basic cooling system math for you.

Water boils at *212 @ sea level

For every lb your radiator cap holds add +3*

A DSM cap is rated to 13lbs

SO 13 X 3* = 39*

Now add 212* + 39* = 251*

So your boil over, run hot temp is 251*

Great info as usual BogusSVO :thumb:



My setup is a Mishimoto X-Line (3 Row) radiator, Flex-A-Lite Part #325 dual fan setup converted to push from pull with a custom shroud made around the shroud provided by FAL, OEM cap, OEM thermostat and my tubular exhaust manifold is SwainTech coated. My temps in the summer time while on the highway are just under 200 according to my OBDII scanner and about 10 degrees higher according to EvoScan.

Now do I really like my setup? No. Why?

1. Because I'd rather have been able to leave my Flex-A-Lite a pull style but my tubular exhaust manifold is so huge (actually made for a 1G) it didn't allow it.

2. I have the fans setup to where I control them with a switch and when the fans are on they draw a good amount of amps which forced me to upgrade to a 90 amp Galant alternator.

3. I had to remove the AC condenser but since I bought the car without an A/C fan I really have nothing to complain about.

What am I going to change?

I'm going to get a XT Seibon carbon fiber hood, add a 10" slim pull fan wired up to come on like an OEM fan would so I won't have to use the pullers and have a heat shield made for the exhaust manifold. If that one single 10" puller along with the vented hood and heat shield can keep my temps in the summer under 215 then I'll remove the dual FAL setup.
 
Oh yea, I forgot to mention that my a/c componets are removed and I can also turn on one of the fans by pushing in the ac button and then turing the knob as if I were turning on the ac.
 
I have stock radiator, stock thermostat, stock fans wired together, and use about 70/30 of water and coolant. My temps have never reached much above 212-215 after a 1/4 mile run. I cruise around 200-205* even on a hot day. I can activate the fans with Link and watch the temps drop.
 
Fluidyne rad with a stock puller fan (1) and a pusher up front (with fmic n p/s cooler) I run 195 cruising around and 209 sitting in traffic on a hot day I get worried if its over 206.
 
I installed a Mishimoto Aluminum radiator with 2 12" slim fans. I have it setup so I can turn them both on via a switch in the cabin. I also recently ordered a FP manifold blanket, which I've heard really good things about. I want to add a "bolt on" hood vent above the turbo/manifold, which would allow alot of the heat to leave the engine bay. Looks bad ass too IMO.
 
I installed a Mishimoto Aluminum radiator with 2 12" slim fans. I have it setup so I can turn them both on via a switch in the cabin. I also recently ordered a FP manifold blanket, which I've heard really good things about. I want to add a "bolt on" hood vent above the turbo/manifold, which would allow alot of the heat to leave the engine bay. Looks bad ass too IMO.

Like this :sneaky:

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Stock Radiator
195* T-stat (drilled a .050 hole in the flange to ensure no air lock problems-hole allows burping the system)
Total system flushout-including block, radiator, and heater core. Coolant is still nice and green.
One stock fan (took out AC fan so I can work on the Alternator easier).
50/50 pre-mix.

Been this way for over 3yrs and 24K miles (do a lot of freeway driving) with temp gauge holds solid right before the half mark at full operating temperature..and coolant level remains right below the cap line and the level in my boolant bottle is between "ADD" and "FULL".

Thus, no cooling problems on this end.

I've done the same task with my little DD 1.8L 1991 Automatic Eclipse. No cooling issues.

DSM
 
Idles at 184-187
Cruising temps are 178-180 and when I get on it I never see 190 on 100deg days...
Recorded using ECuFlash.

Evo rain guard installed in factory hood (huge difference)
Koyo 1g radiator (not as wide as factory 2g radiator and has a huge dent in the bottom haha)
SSAC FMIC
No AC
SPAL 12" 1630 cfm pusher fan mount on passenger side with zip ties
170 t-stat from advance auto
Duct under the car mounted to radiator support to pull air to radiator
Sealed FMIC to the radiator and radiator to the car
75/25 water/coolant mix
1 bottle of water wetter
2gb talon bumper cover with the eagle symbol cut out
Coated and wrapped tubular manifold and downpipe
IAT's from stock MAF read 5-10deg above ambiant while cruising (no duct work is ran to it just using eBay pipe and kn filter)
Fan comes on at 180 while idling and 190 while cruising VIA ECUFlash

Few pictures...
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Another option is to remove your thermostat and then see what your temps are. Likely they will be very low and struggle to hit 160-170. If that is the case then simply get a lower temp thermostat. If that does not work to your liking simply drill small holes into the thermostat to allow more flow to your liking BUT as stated 200-220 can be okay. It is recommended to have tuning capabilities if you really want to run cold so that your timing is proper and to make use of your fans, but obviously running too cool can cause issues down the line.

A lot of you full size radiator guys with low temp thermostats ect. I think are over reacting a bit. I run a civic half size radiator with a cheapo fan and a 180* thermostat and my temps usually hold rock hard at 193-196*, 210* max on hard runs.
 
Stock radiator, stock thermostat, and stock fans. Highest it gets in a hot and humid South Florida with A/C on is around 186-193 or 196 if I'm stepping on it.

Fans are on full time w/DSMLink. With the fan feature turned off, car does not go passed 210.
 
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